Brown and red wire on intercooler pump goes where?
Originally Posted by 70GT6
Actually it is not the plastic - it is the magnet that breaks.
heres mine:

heres mine:

i think my pump is working. i could see the coolant flow when i pinched it. i misunderstood and thought you meant it should have flowed without pinching it.
i could feel coolant going through the hose.
How in the hell does that magnet break like that.
I am beginning to think that as these cars sat....that "vac" hose acted as an inlet of water and damaged the pumps.
Since other manufactures are using this same pump without the problem (Lightning, Cobra, and yes even the Cobalt SS ) and the only real difference is that they are missing this port.
Just a thought.
Since other manufactures are using this same pump without the problem (Lightning, Cobra, and yes even the Cobalt SS ) and the only real difference is that they are missing this port.
Just a thought.
did i need to hook up that little hose to anything that was on the stock pump?
i am pretty sure it is working now but the car just does not seem to have the power it did. it may be all in my head though lol. i am going to take the positive terminal off the battery and reset the ecu tomorrow to see what that does.
did anyone else eperience this? i can hear the supercharger kick in at low rpms but it seems like going from 4k to redline it is not pulling like it should but it does feel better than it did with the dead pump.
i am pretty sure it is working now but the car just does not seem to have the power it did. it may be all in my head though lol. i am going to take the positive terminal off the battery and reset the ecu tomorrow to see what that does.
did anyone else eperience this? i can hear the supercharger kick in at low rpms but it seems like going from 4k to redline it is not pulling like it should but it does feel better than it did with the dead pump.
Originally Posted by mrphotoman
did i need to hook up that little hose to anything that was on the stock pump?
i am pretty sure it is working now but the car just does not seem to have the power it did. it may be all in my head though lol. i am going to take the positive terminal off the battery and reset the ecu tomorrow to see what that does.
did anyone else eperience this? i can hear the supercharger kick in at low rpms but it seems like going from 4k to redline it is not pulling like it should but it does feel better than it did with the dead pump.
i am pretty sure it is working now but the car just does not seem to have the power it did. it may be all in my head though lol. i am going to take the positive terminal off the battery and reset the ecu tomorrow to see what that does.
did anyone else eperience this? i can hear the supercharger kick in at low rpms but it seems like going from 4k to redline it is not pulling like it should but it does feel better than it did with the dead pump.
Replacing a bad pump with a good new one is not going to fix a overheating problem with the I/C and inlet air temp all the time.
If you have an air lock there is no way to really get the cooling and the I/C the highest fluid tank on the car. I pinch the hose just below the wye near the oil dip stick with the pump running.
To get the pump on start the engine and after 20 seconds rev it to about 2500 once or twice, just to get the tach there, dont hold in other words.
WIth the motor ideling, pinch the hose with you fingers or I like to tighten a hose clamp about 1/2 shut, and then your hands are out of the gizmos. A good thing.
After about 5 minutes you should have purged all but the smallest bubbles. It takes a while. What your doing is increasing the back pressure on the I/C and causing water to come out of the black rubber spit hose into the tank. Coolant form the bottom of the tank replaces what is spit back, purging the bubbles. I actually added a different port to my tank to allow faster and better purging.
This will ensure that you have no air lock to impead the cooling, and it should work as long as the polarity of the pump is correct in which case it just wont do much.
Now release the hose clamp but you can leave it there for next time. Enjoy Woody

If you have an air lock there is no way to really get the cooling and the I/C the highest fluid tank on the car. I pinch the hose just below the wye near the oil dip stick with the pump running.
To get the pump on start the engine and after 20 seconds rev it to about 2500 once or twice, just to get the tach there, dont hold in other words.
WIth the motor ideling, pinch the hose with you fingers or I like to tighten a hose clamp about 1/2 shut, and then your hands are out of the gizmos. A good thing.
After about 5 minutes you should have purged all but the smallest bubbles. It takes a while. What your doing is increasing the back pressure on the I/C and causing water to come out of the black rubber spit hose into the tank. Coolant form the bottom of the tank replaces what is spit back, purging the bubbles. I actually added a different port to my tank to allow faster and better purging.
This will ensure that you have no air lock to impead the cooling, and it should work as long as the polarity of the pump is correct in which case it just wont do much.
Now release the hose clamp but you can leave it there for next time. Enjoy Woody

thanks for the info!
What about that 3rd hose i did not reconnect on the new pump, was it a vac hose and do i need to reconnect it?
What about that 3rd hose i did not reconnect on the new pump, was it a vac hose and do i need to reconnect it?
mrphotoman, If you trace that hose back I think you will find that it just goes to the other side of the frame from the IC pump and goes up and makes a loop. It looks like a breather tube to me. I think you can forget about it.
MikeR
MikeR
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