Brown and red wire on intercooler pump goes where?
I have a lightning pump and harness, it has a red and blue wire. The stock wires on the car is red and brown. I would assume it goes like this:
Red wire on lightning pump to red wire on car
Blue wire on lightning pump to brown wire on car
Can someone confirm this for me?
Thanks!
Red wire on lightning pump to red wire on car
Blue wire on lightning pump to brown wire on car
Can someone confirm this for me?
Thanks!
positive to positive -- negative to negative
according to the SRT maintenance manual (posted on this website no less) a SOLID BROWN WIRE is always ground.
Now you just have to fiugure out the polarity for the wires on the lighting pump and harness.
according to the SRT maintenance manual (posted on this website no less) a SOLID BROWN WIRE is always ground.
Now you just have to fiugure out the polarity for the wires on the lighting pump and harness.
If you look at the orientation of the old harness and compare it to the old pump you'll see where its marked + and -. Match it up to the new pump and new harness, or just the new pump depending on if you purchased the extra harness.
After my ghetto wiring attempt, I ordered the new harness....
After my ghetto wiring attempt, I ordered the new harness....
i figured it out but thanks for the info! I looked at the ends of both pumps and it was marked right on them lol. My pump died with only 4000 miles on it, I took it apard and looked inside and it was broken in pieces. What a piece of crap pump.
I too ordered the harness, it sucked paying $17 for 2 wires and a little piece of plastic.
I too ordered the harness, it sucked paying $17 for 2 wires and a little piece of plastic.
i could feel the coolant flowing through the hose but i could not hear the pump running. when i shut the car off and walked around to check the pump it was not running. does it sound like it is working?
i used those little scotch clips to connect the wires and i am worried it did not bite into the stock wires where they were so small. i may cut and splice them then retape it tomorrow.
i used those little scotch clips to connect the wires and i am worried it did not bite into the stock wires where they were so small. i may cut and splice them then retape it tomorrow.
I could not hear mine either.
When you bleed the system - you will see the coolant.
Bleed - clamp (pinch) the return IC pump hose just above the "T" near the recovery tank. Start the car and blip the throttle this will be enough to start the pump. Watch until air bleeds out and you get a steady flow of coolant -it can be seen flowing in to the tank.
(if needed there are some pics on there somewhere)
When you bleed the system - you will see the coolant.
Bleed - clamp (pinch) the return IC pump hose just above the "T" near the recovery tank. Start the car and blip the throttle this will be enough to start the pump. Watch until air bleeds out and you get a steady flow of coolant -it can be seen flowing in to the tank.
(if needed there are some pics on there somewhere)
Originally Posted by 70GT6
I could not hear mine either.
When you bleed the system - you will see the coolant.
Bleed - clamp (pinch) the return IC pump hose just above the "T" near the recovery tank. Start the car and blip the throttle this will be enough to start the pump. Watch until air bleeds out and you get a steady flow of coolant -it can be seen flowing in to the tank.
(if needed there are some pics on there somewhere)
When you bleed the system - you will see the coolant.
Bleed - clamp (pinch) the return IC pump hose just above the "T" near the recovery tank. Start the car and blip the throttle this will be enough to start the pump. Watch until air bleeds out and you get a steady flow of coolant -it can be seen flowing in to the tank.
(if needed there are some pics on there somewhere)
Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by mrphotoman
do i need to pull the wheel back off to get to the ic pump hose above the T? i tried to find the pic but was unsuccesful.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
You will see a hose come out near the top of the motor and head toward the recovery tank. The hose will go down to the IC pump area. Right when the hose passes by the recovery tank there will be a "t". Pinch off the hose just below the "t". This will direct the flow to the tank and bubble off the air in the system.
Last edited by 70GT6; Sep 13, 2008 at 06:19 PM.
heres the pic.
area is where the srcew type hose clamp is shown on the middle hose.
(thx Waldog for pic)
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...0&d=1219419162
area is where the srcew type hose clamp is shown on the middle hose.
(thx Waldog for pic)
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...0&d=1219419162
i think i seen what you were talking about. i pinched it but i did not see any air escape or coolant circulating inside the pump. i did not hook up that 3rd small hose that was on the stock pump. is that a problem?
i pinched it (right below where waldig has his clamp on the hose) again and when i held it pinched i could see coolant flowing in the coolant overflow tank. when i quit pinching it i did not see it flowing. is that how it should be?
No problem with the vac looking hose.
If the pump did not turn on you may have to get the engine a bit warmer.
Carefully open the recovery tank (not when HOT) warm is ok. You will see a flow of coolant from the area where the hose/"T" enters the tank.
If you have nothing after this - you better check the wiring.
If the pump did not turn on you may have to get the engine a bit warmer.
Carefully open the recovery tank (not when HOT) warm is ok. You will see a flow of coolant from the area where the hose/"T" enters the tank.
If you have nothing after this - you better check the wiring.
Originally Posted by 70GT6
No problem with the vac looking hose.
If the pump did not turn on you may have to get the engine a bit warmer.
Carefully open the recovery tank (not when HOT) warm is ok. You will see a flow of coolant from the area where the hose/"T" enters the tank.
If you have nothing after this - you better check the wiring.
If the pump did not turn on you may have to get the engine a bit warmer.
Carefully open the recovery tank (not when HOT) warm is ok. You will see a flow of coolant from the area where the hose/"T" enters the tank.
If you have nothing after this - you better check the wiring.
the coolant is dark green so it is hard to see it moving. i will check it in the morning.
thanks
Originally Posted by mrphotoman
so i should see it flow without pinching the hose?
the coolant is dark green so it is hard to see it moving. i will check it in the morning.
thanks
the coolant is dark green so it is hard to see it moving. i will check it in the morning.
thanks
There may be some w/o pinching the hose but it would be very hard to see.
Keep in mind our pumps DO NOT run when the car is shutoff.... Its possible the SLK32 pump runs, but not the srt-6's. I tested by running a voltage meter from the pump connector to inside the car. The instant I shut the car off the voltage dropped to 0, theres no way the pump could've still been running.....
And on top of that when the car is running and the pump is running its not always possible to feel it with your hand. I never could.
And on top of that when the car is running and the pump is running its not always possible to feel it with your hand. I never could.
Originally Posted by ohnoesaz
Keep in mind our pumps DO NOT run when the car is shutoff.... Its possible the SLK32 pump runs, but not the srt-6's.
...
And on top of that when the car is running and the pump is running its not always possible to feel it with your hand. I never could.
...
And on top of that when the car is running and the pump is running its not always possible to feel it with your hand. I never could.
....agreed
Mine was very quiet and couldn't really hear it either. When the car is running it's even harder to hear. If you put them + to + and - to - you should be alright.
Was your car an inventory reduction car? The ones that sat around for 2 years? I suspect all of those have the plastic dry up and break.
Was your car an inventory reduction car? The ones that sat around for 2 years? I suspect all of those have the plastic dry up and break.
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
Mine was very quiet and couldn't really hear it either. When the car is running it's even harder to hear. If you put them + to + and - to - you should be alright.
Was your car an inventory reduction car? The ones that sat around for 2 years? I suspect all of those have the plastic dry up and break.
Was your car an inventory reduction car? The ones that sat around for 2 years? I suspect all of those have the plastic dry up and break.
heres mine:
Pump3.jpg
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
Yep thats it, isn't it plastic?
Ok....well it could be a plastic ferrite material - basically a metal powder that can be inject molded....
Last edited by 70GT6; Sep 13, 2008 at 09:01 PM.


