Im finaly going to buy a couple mods for the srt6 i bought 1 and a half months ago. I have done some research and i think im going to go with the code3 pulley and the needswings intake. I can see you guys range from different sizes of the code3 pulley. What is the difference and or superior pulley out of the code3 range?

 

I only know of the 62mm [I believe} size. It Code 3 works well and the 178 works nicely also, about 17 PSIG and 20 PSIG for each. Iam going to use both eventually with the advantage of lower speeds on the alternator and water pump over the larger 181 or 185 pulley. I had a 181 once until there was an accident with it.

The problem is that the fuel air mixture needs some corrections such as a tune or other remedity. Iam working on other now that the pulley issue is behind me.


Woody Be Happy

 

The Code 3 pulley is a supercharger pulley and currently there is only one size. There are also crankshaft driven pulleys and those do come in various sizes. Common sizes for the crank pulleys are 178, 181, 185.

 

Ok im just abit confused. So when i order a code 3 pulley am i suppose to request a crank pulley size? 178, 181 or 185? What are the differences between all three sizes? Im not sure the purpose each size has. Thanks

 

No worries. Code3 only offers one pulley, and is the only vendor that offers a pulley for the supercharger.

The other pulleys (various vendors) are all for the crank pulley, not the supercharger, and are sold separately. The crank pulleys are the ones that you have to specify the size.

So if you order a Code3 pulley, you don't need to specify a size - just tell him (Brandon) that you want one. Iit is completely independent of any other pulleys.

You'll be pleased with both the NeedsWings cold air intake and the Code3 pulley. I have both and love them!

 

Ahh i see thanks mate. So i can buy a crank pulley as well as a supercharger pulley. Do they both give similiar gains to performance? Also if i get the intake and pulley would it be important that i get a tune?

 

So far there have been very few success stories running both a crank and a SC Pulley. Over boost / lean AFR's etc...

Gains run from 7HP with the Code3 - - 20HP with the 178mm ASP - - 30HP with the LET 185mm.

The code3 is pretty easy to install and the crank pulleys take a little more time but can be done in 4 hours.

Tune is important.... I saw another 25HP gain with a tune..

Good luck....

 

Someone only saw a 7HP gain going from stock to a C3P S/C pulley? Results notwithstanding, logically that doesn't make sense - the C3P S/C pulley allegedly makes the same boost as the 178mm crank pulley options... so the power gains should be near identical. This seems to be supported by C3P's own C32 shop car's results - dyno-proven 21RWHP gain with just the S/C pulley...

I don't own a single C3P product, so I don't have any "skin in the game" here... just thought getting a 7HP gain going from stock to S/C pulley sounded a wee bit low...

 

So basicly what is the best one to go with? the s/c pulley or a crank pulley? I want something reliable, if they all are, im after the one with the most hp gains. Im assuming a crank pulley is the way to go? Can you guys give me some pointers as to what i should be buying. Im 80% certain i will go with needswings Intake but im not sure what pulley to go with. Where do u guys buy the SL intakes from i wouldnt mind researching them as well. thanks in advance

 

C3 pulley is cheaper and less invasive, takes less time to swap from stock and back to stock, but there are possible belt slip issues. The crank pulley will make more power and is the way to go IMO. Id suggest a 181 for you.

NW intake is better than sl55 IMO but the sl55 intake guys might argue that so either way is a good choice.

 

For those that didn't follow the original Code3 introduction thread - here are the dyno results - before and after - same day - same car - same dyno - installed and tested by Brandon at Code3

Before Dyno - - After Dyno

Dan did achive a 20HP gain - but that was with the Code3 pulley and the Code3 intake mod at the same time

 

Below shows what I have seen in my car (here at 4700ft).


Stock Pulley 13-14 lbs of boost

 

[quote=240M3SRT]C3 pulley is cheaper and less invasive, takes less time to swap from stock and back to stock, but there are possible belt slip issues. The crank pulley will make more power and is the way to go IMO. Id suggest a 181 for you.

What are your reasons for advising the 181 i see you have the 185. Is it because of possible reliability issues?

 

Thanks for that, its really helpful to see the gains you got. I was reading earliar in this thread that someone thought having both a SC pulley and crank doesnt do much for performance but i see in your case it has. Im really wary about getting a tune, theres next to no srt6 in australia. Maybe a merc workshop? With an Intake and 181 pulley is it imperative that i get a tune?

 

I wouldnt mind if you guys with experiance with the srt6 can just guide me with different paths you think i should take to make my car faster. My only concern is reliability and not having crazy power that will send me sideways every time i put my foot down! Cheers

 

Lacer,

I have been very pleased with my code3 pulley. Installation was very simple, and gave the vehicle a new, more agressive feel. Brandon was great to work with, and I have never had any problems with the hardware. (I think the crank pulley guys have had some issues.)

1. If performance/dollar is an important tradeoff for you, I would recommend this pulley.

2. If you don't mind the extra cost and installation labor, the 181/185 pulleys are for you.

-Alex

 

Just for comparison
I ran a 181 till I had a problem with it. No boost gauge at that time.

The stock boost I had was about 14, see my dyno runs in the gallery for backup.

With the code 3 and CAI, I was up to 17 PSI and gained less that 10 HP at the 6000 RPM point. When I added the second CAI inlet I got 18 PSI with a 35 HP GAIN AT THE BOTTOM END, BELOW 2500 RPM. Code three does its work more at the bottom end and is less impressive at the top. The overall response is good without buzzing the pulleys and accessory drives at an over speed rate.

Now with a 178 I am hitting 20 PSI and lean out above 18 PSI.
This is WITH THE DUAL CAI infront of the radiator which eliminated the intake restriction giving me 1 PSI more boost for that change alone.

With the 178 and code 3, I was going about 24 PSI with total loss of torque NOT DUE TO HEATING BUT DUE TO LEAN OUT( I have a 4x bigger H/E than stock with about 3x the flow, but the data logger was hitting its limit of 17 to 1 F/A ratio. I pulled that off the street the same day, too too much FOR NOW.

Now that I have gotten the data for various setups, I am about the fuel mixture problem and at this time DO NOT believe that a tune is the issue.. Guess that makes me a mad dog or Englishman in the midday sun for the breakaway thinking, but you all know me for that...... Thinking out of the box, when I get it going Ill let you know.

Woody. PSI code 3 is easier to install for the mechanically - tool limited driver.

A few charts for comparison one CAI and two CAIs

 

[quote=lacerdaschoon]Concerning stacked pullies, the 181 and c3 basically equal the 185mm's 21psi boost, its more time, more money, more possible belt slip, and one more variable to add into the mix. To me thats pointless. The 185 is going to lean your car our more, meaning you will need more fuel. It heats the intake air signifigantly. Plus i am the only person i know of with 185mm, modded manifolds, and NW intake, which as waldig pointed out gains an extra 1psi of boost just from the filter being in front of the radiator. I am having lean issues in cold weather in the top end 5500rpm+.

Im not sure your level of mechanical ability but im pretty sure myself or others on this forum can walk you through the crank pulley install. The CAI will be a breeze. Do those two mods and get back to me...you will be thrilled. It should take you from a 13.1 in the 1/4 to a 12.5 or better, with a tune you will see the low 12's we all love so much.

Oh, one more thing...get an a/f gauge, get and a/f gauge, get an a/f gauge!!!!!!!!!! I cant stress this enough, especially if your going to skip the tune up front, but its something you need regarldess.

 

For me it was a simple path - Installed in this order:

SL55 Intake (+20HP) True 3" Dual CAI - tried, trued & tested on AMG V8's

185mm Pulley (+30HP - 21PSI) Never have had any issues - But mine was a proto-type and came with a stiffer water pump pulley (now solved by LET) that has never failed after 12,000 miles (19,300 K) and never an IAT over temp - or even close.

ECU Tune (+25HP) - plenty of decent vendors for a good tune.

My results were - 285RWHP stock to 360RWHP modded with just these 3 mods (plus 1 step colder iridium plugs) for about $1,500

Todays price is: $275 (CAI) + $850 (185mm) + $500 (Tune) + $90 (Plugs) = $1715 Plus shipping = $23 per HP gain. SWEEET!!

Get them all delivered at once and you can install them in one day.

 

If I were to agree with anyone here my vote has to go with Brian.
Plus I like the thought of doing it all at once as I did. Tune, 185mm Pullies, CAI, Heat exchanger along with all the "little" goodies. When it rolled out of my shop it was like some other animal all together. A very viscious one to say the least. I have mine tuned for high end road course speeds so leaning out, even at 22psi and in turns above 160mph has never been a problem. As far as the issues with these crank pullies, it has all been worth it. I LOVE THIS CAR!!!!
Mike