Code3 Pulley size question
Originally Posted by lacerdaschoon
Im finaly going to buy a couple mods for the srt6 i bought 1 and a half months ago. I have done some research and i think im going to go with the code3 pulley and the needswings intake. I can see you guys range from different sizes of the code3 pulley. What is the difference and or superior pulley out of the code3 range?
If you enjoy lots of pulley failure issues and engine damage from shards of pulley fragments flying all over your engine bay then get the 181mm or 185mm pulley.
Do a little reading up on the forum, you will see what I mean.
When you post a thread like this you will typically only get opinions not a lot of facts.
To date (to my knowledge), the 178mm and code3 pullies have posted the fastest times. The only exception was 1 car that had significantly more mods and nitrous. I have a code3 and i datalogged my car then datalogged it again with belt spray on and there was zero difference in boost so i know i do not have any belt slip.
In order to know what power you are really making you will need not only dyno sheets but track times as well since some dynos read higher than others. Some people dyno mid to upper 350whp range yet run slower times than others dynoing less.
When it comes to tuning cars it really pays to do your research.
Last edited by mrphotoman; Jan 9, 2009 at 10:13 AM.
Originally Posted by waldig
Now that I have gotten the data for various setups, I am about the fuel mixture problem and at this time DO NOT believe that a tune is the issue.. Guess that makes me a mad dog or Englishman in the midday sun for the breakaway thinking, but you all know me for that...... Thinking out of the box, when I get it going Ill let you know.
Woody. PSI code 3 is easier to install for the mechanically - tool limited driver.
A few charts for comparison one CAI and two CAIs
Woody. PSI code 3 is easier to install for the mechanically - tool limited driver.
A few charts for comparison one CAI and two CAIs
Hey Woody,
Trust me when I tell you, YOUR CAR NEEDS A TUNE! And BADLY needs a tune! You need to get more fuel in there and that will solve a lot of your issues. I am not sure why you are so against getting the ECU tuned? It's night and day between the two. With your mods, you should be running better than most of us on here. When we were at MIR, I think you were only running 12.5's@110-111? I'm not trying to start anything with you, but you keep saying it's not about "The Tune". It most certainly is about the tune.
Well if you want another opinion....
The Code3 and needswings is the cleanest and safest option for a daily driver car that is your only means of transportation. Sure you won't get all of the gains possible but it changes the car and is pretty safe for someone who can't afford a second car.
But if this is your toy car then ignore me.
The Code3 and needswings is the cleanest and safest option for a daily driver car that is your only means of transportation. Sure you won't get all of the gains possible but it changes the car and is pretty safe for someone who can't afford a second car.
But if this is your toy car then ignore me.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 1
From: Great Falls, Montana ( Big Sky Country)
Originally Posted by distantpulse
Hey Woody,
Trust me when I tell you, YOUR CAR NEEDS A TUNE! And BADLY needs a tune! You need to get more fuel in there and that will solve a lot of your issues. I am not sure why you are so against getting the ECU tuned? It's night and day between the two. With your mods, you should be running better than most of us on here. When we were at MIR, I think you were only running 12.5's@110-111? I'm not trying to start anything with you, but you keep saying it's not about "The Tune". It most certainly is about the tune.
Trust me when I tell you, YOUR CAR NEEDS A TUNE! And BADLY needs a tune! You need to get more fuel in there and that will solve a lot of your issues. I am not sure why you are so against getting the ECU tuned? It's night and day between the two. With your mods, you should be running better than most of us on here. When we were at MIR, I think you were only running 12.5's@110-111? I'm not trying to start anything with you, but you keep saying it's not about "The Tune". It most certainly is about the tune.

How can one argue whats best when every time he gets on line people more than prove he falls short on every issue.
IT IS FACT NO ONE MOD CAN PICK UP YOUR PERFORMANCE AS MUCH AS JUST THE TUNE. I TOO DON'T WANT TO START ANYTHING WITH YOU I JUST WANT YOU TO QUIT FEEDING INCORECT INFO TO THOSE WHO NEED HELP, AND MAY BE GULABLE ENOUGH TO THINK YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT. THANK GOD FOR PRIVATE MESSAGING.
Originally Posted by Montana Crossfire
This is why I get so frustrated with these guys that will sit and argue about issues they have little knowledge of. If you want to use your lack of intel as an example thats fine but don't give new bes suggestions that will just send them down the wrong road.
How can one argue whats best when every time he gets on line people more than prove he falls short on every issue.
IT IS FACT NO ONE MOD CAN PICK UP YOUR PERFORMANCE AS MUCH AS JUST THE TUNE. I TOO DON'T WANT TO START ANYTHING WITH YOU I JUST WANT YOU TO QUIT FEEDING INCORECT INFO TO THOSE WHO NEED HELP, AND MAY BE GULABLE ENOUGH TO THINK YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT. THANK GOD FOR PRIVATE MESSAGING.
How can one argue whats best when every time he gets on line people more than prove he falls short on every issue.
IT IS FACT NO ONE MOD CAN PICK UP YOUR PERFORMANCE AS MUCH AS JUST THE TUNE. I TOO DON'T WANT TO START ANYTHING WITH YOU I JUST WANT YOU TO QUIT FEEDING INCORECT INFO TO THOSE WHO NEED HELP, AND MAY BE GULABLE ENOUGH TO THINK YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT. THANK GOD FOR PRIVATE MESSAGING.
Are you talking to Woody when you say this?
All I said was his car NEEDS a tune of some kind!! He is running a bunch of aftermarket parts and not to update the ECU, to me, is kinda silly!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 1
From: Great Falls, Montana ( Big Sky Country)
One man's Silly is another man's totally ridiculous.
I wasn't saying this to you. I was just glad that you brought it up.
This started off with a new SRT driver asking for help on modifications And he gets back the absured. Of course you have exceptions to all rules. Everyone should agree for the questioners benefit that of course a proper tune should be one of the first moves for any alteration of the engine.
I wasn't saying this to you. I was just glad that you brought it up.
This started off with a new SRT driver asking for help on modifications And he gets back the absured. Of course you have exceptions to all rules. Everyone should agree for the questioners benefit that of course a proper tune should be one of the first moves for any alteration of the engine.
Originally Posted by tighed1
Below shows what I have seen in my car (here at 4700ft).
Stock Pulley 13-14 lbs of boost
Stock Pulley 13-14 lbs of boost
Last edited by tighed1; Jun 16, 2009 at 06:15 PM.
Originally Posted by tighed1
I may as well chime in on the tune since it seems to have become an issue.
After installing the C3 the car felt faster. Mainly cuz I just spend a chunk of change and I just knew the car was faster!
With the 181 there was without a doubt a significant performance increase.
After installing the tuned ECU I immediately noticed that the car was more responsive than before. There is also the sense of security that the car is now "tuned" to handle the additional boost (don't tell anyone but I am currently running stacked).
I'd say that my best spent money came from the 181 pulley and the tune made me feel better about running the additional boost.
After installing the C3 the car felt faster. Mainly cuz I just spend a chunk of change and I just knew the car was faster!
With the 181 there was without a doubt a significant performance increase.
After installing the tuned ECU I immediately noticed that the car was more responsive than before. There is also the sense of security that the car is now "tuned" to handle the additional boost (don't tell anyone but I am currently running stacked).
I'd say that my best spent money came from the 181 pulley and the tune made me feel better about running the additional boost.
At past track events, we could almost put money on the times as they were very consistant. I walked the 181 and 178 every time.
Originally Posted by loungn14
I would agree with you. On the C32 side of things, we have always found that the 185 to put down better numbers by far.
At past track events, we could almost put money on the times as they were very consistant. I walked the 181 and 178 every time.
At past track events, we could almost put money on the times as they were very consistant. I walked the 181 and 178 every time.
Originally Posted by mrphotoman
what were your times/mph at the track? It seems to be the opposite over here, the 185mm pullies have ran the slowest times of the group which I would say is due to heat.
Miker ran 12.2 with the 181 and modified manifolds and DR's
Their getting it all dialed in. I bet they both join the 11's by summer.
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
240M3SRT runs a 12.1 @ 133MPH - - On street tires I believe (check his signature) - - Bet with sensor clamps on his AIT and ECT - on a well prepped track he could bust into the 11's - .
Miker ran 12.2 with the 181 and modified manifolds and DR's
Their getting it all dialed in. I bet they both join the 11's by summer.
Miker ran 12.2 with the 181 and modified manifolds and DR's
Their getting it all dialed in. I bet they both join the 11's by summer.
Originally Posted by mrphotoman
what were your times/mph at the track? It seems to be the opposite over here, the 185mm pullies have ran the slowest times of the group which I would say is due to heat.
12.4 @ 114mph
12.4 @ 111mph
12.39 @ 114mph
Originally Posted by BrianBrave
240M3SRT runs a 12.1 @ 133MPH - - On street tires I believe (check his signature) - - Bet with sensor clamps on his AIT and ECT - on a well prepped track he could bust into the 11's - .
Miker ran 12.2 with the 181 and modified manifolds and DR's
Their getting it all dialed in. I bet they both join the 11's by summer.
Miker ran 12.2 with the 181 and modified manifolds and DR's
Their getting it all dialed in. I bet they both join the 11's by summer.
240M3SRT times from his member page...
133 would be badas$!
12.10 @ 112mph
377whp
Originally Posted by lacerdaschoon
I wouldnt mind if you guys with experiance with the srt6 can just guide me with different paths you think i should take to make my car faster. My only concern is reliability and not having crazy power that will send me sideways every time i put my foot down! Cheers
Is your SRT a daily driver?
Are you focused on drag racing? or on AutoX? or not planning to race?
Are you more interested in getting maximum performance or best cost/horsepower ratio?
Some recommendations:
If it's your daily driver, be conservative, and go with a CAI, Code3 pulley, and tune. Also consider a SprintBooster to change the feel of the throttle. This will give you enough power to have a lot of fun, but is very easy to put back to stock if you need to take it in for warranty service.
If it's not your daily driver, and you want the best cost/hp ratio, go with the above again. You may want to add 240's manifolds as well, as they provide significant gains for a good price.
If you want the maximum performance, price be damned:
Then go with stacked pullies (Code3 and the 181), NeedsWings CAI or SL55, NeedsWings Intake Manifolds, ECU tune, better plugs, better tires, better brakes, a better heat exchanger (and THAT is a topic rife with debate), and the list can go on and on because as you know, as long as you have money to spend there are more parts to buy.
All that said, you can't go wrong with the combination of a CAI, a pulley and a tune. The performance differences are there between products, no doubt. But the end result is which ever you choose, you'll turn your SRT into a serious sleeper that will amaze people at the track and blow the doors off people on the street.
Regarding the reliability of LETs 181mm and 185mm pulleys...there are only 3 issues to date im aware of.
The most common is the water pump pulley failure. From day one i though the included water pump pulley was too thin, and sure enough they broke. However, the new version pulley is very thick and i do not forsee this happening again.
The second issue (which i persoanlly encountered) is the 6 crank pulley bolts that hold the outer aluminum ring to the steel hub backing out. The fix...remove and reinstall with red locktite.
The third issue i have only seen from Waldig. The hub was too long and had to be machined down. To my best knowledge thats an isolated incident.
Regarding 1/4mi et's, i have not seen anyone with a code 3 pulley and any other combination of mods(minus nitrous or water/meth) run faster than BLKFIN's 12.2. My personal 1/4mi mph is rediculously low due to my lack of fuel and retarted timing up top, so i wouldnt use that as a good comparison.
The most common is the water pump pulley failure. From day one i though the included water pump pulley was too thin, and sure enough they broke. However, the new version pulley is very thick and i do not forsee this happening again.
The second issue (which i persoanlly encountered) is the 6 crank pulley bolts that hold the outer aluminum ring to the steel hub backing out. The fix...remove and reinstall with red locktite.
The third issue i have only seen from Waldig. The hub was too long and had to be machined down. To my best knowledge thats an isolated incident.
Regarding 1/4mi et's, i have not seen anyone with a code 3 pulley and any other combination of mods(minus nitrous or water/meth) run faster than BLKFIN's 12.2. My personal 1/4mi mph is rediculously low due to my lack of fuel and retarted timing up top, so i wouldnt use that as a good comparison.
My suggestion is in my signature. Proven already and consistent. If you want the possibility of going fast with the achievement of still figuring it out, then stack them, go bigger pullies, you name it. The C32 I believe doesn't have this problem because they don't have a CAI that introduces the air that the NW does and providing more boost, hp,etc... so their motor hasn't reached full potential yet. So if 11.9's aren't fast enough, wait on the sidelines until someone has figured out the tune for the rest.
A quick question. Is it worth to buy NGK spark plugs and LET spacers? OR more so a mod you add when u run high boost? In response to how i drive my car, This car is my daily driver, i dont know enough about modding so im not keen to be forking out $ on problems and issues. I will be voiding my warranty so i would like to be as reliable as possible. I dont do track racing, all i want is extra noticable power to have fun with. Thanks for all your suggestions.
Originally Posted by lacerdaschoon
A quick question. Is it worth to buy NGK spark plugs and LET spacers? OR more so a mod you add when u run high boost? In response to how i drive my car, This car is my daily driver, i dont know enough about modding so im not keen to be forking out $ on problems and issues. I will be voiding my warranty so i would like to be as reliable as possible. I dont do track racing, all i want is extra noticable power to have fun with. Thanks for all your suggestions.
The spacers cost about $100 (for the 6mm thick ones). They do NOT give you anymore power, all they do is slow the rate at which your intercooler/supsercharger heats up. Heat is the enemy of power for air going into the motor. So keeping that heat down will allow you to maintain maximum power longer. For most folks that do not race, this isn't really an issue. So if you're not racing, I wouldn't bother with the spacers.
Originally Posted by tom2112
For most folks that do not race, this isn't really an issue. So if you're not racing, I wouldn't bother with the spacers.


