All things considered, I wanted to pass along another idea that is low cost, easy, and can be installed without biggy tools and stuff. This is my third approach and it seems to do the deed though some will consider it the dirty deed, what the heck its the weekend, grab a glass of wine or whatever and follow on along.

The dyno of my car scared the poopie out of me as I have over 525 pound feet of torque on my 440 six pack, and it did not move around like the Crossfire. I have done a few things to help it on the bottom end (revs) and now probably have the best - flattest torque curve around. Iam making at 2000 as much as others are anywhere on the curve. Add that power to the transmission and shifting is durn scary to me , anyway.

I had to tie the motor down and tried a chain at the MIR event as a last minute add-on. Phase #1 but groudy looking and maybe even a bit ricer. The photo shows the stainless steel cable I used and how I tied it to the motor mount and frame. THis is somewhat flexable and does not ANCHOR the motor, just limits the amount of reaction that the motor has during shifting (HARD).

Idid this in this manner as I can hold the motor down, its CHEAP, IT works, It is not visible for the ninnys that want polished Unutanimum finished parts. In short you dont need a shade tree to do this. I added many clamps and pulled the cable snug though it forms itself to the car and gives you plenty of flex without doing or allowing camage to occur.

It may get you thinking like 240xxxxx and others, in any case you have the information to go forth and prosper as it were.

Happy Happy, Woody THe cable loops over the motor mount arm and around the frame twice, the ends are long and I took them off to the side, out of view rather that cut it down, may want to add another loop is what I was thinking.

 

Sweet. On my turbo buick I have used one of those motorcycle ratcheting tie downs (with the nylon fabric flat strap) and anchored one end to the frame and the other end to the alternator mount. Still flexed a bit so I went to one of those screw-type turnbuckles with eye-bolts on the frame and alt mount. A but more rigid but transmitted a fair amount of engine vibration to the frame.

 

Woody, that's the same way GM "fixed" the motor mounts from breaking during their 1965 "Chevrolet" motor mount recall. Glad to see the solution still works 44 years later.
Or they may have bolted a chain to it, basically the same principle though.

 

+fire, you are right on!

I owned a '65 Chevy Impala SS as my first car & that is EXACTLY what they did to "solve" my broken motor mount issues.
The local Chevy dealer replaced the mount & then placed a fairly decent chain around both mounts.
Though it was the passenger side that would keep breaking.

 

wow! does anyone not make a dampner kit for this engine movement?

 

hey, those mounts were still around after '65, I broke one on my '69 Z 28, stuck the throttle wide open and launched my butt right into a Shell station lot, hammer down, before I switched off the motor...what a butt cleaning that was...we used a cable tie down method after that happened...

 

I have owned my xfire for a little over a year now and the cable around the drivers side mount was installed the first week i owned the car. jim

 

Hey! I see you have a 70' GS and a Buick GN???! We have a 71' GS, 87 GN, and a 70' GSX... Good to see another Buick fan!!

By the way, good method Waldig =) Gonna keep this is mind =O

 

i may give that a try.

oh, love that shirt where did you get that at lol?

 

Does it really keep the car from getting squirrley on take off and part throttle hammering? Or is this to keep the motor from looking like it is going to jump out? I do remember a post about better launces when the motor was strapped down (BDJ maybe)?

When it is cool outside (haven't done enought cooling mods for summer heat) at 50mph or less, it feels like the *** end of the car is twisting when the throttle is pinned to the floor. The tires are slidding as much as it feels like one rear wheel is further forward than the other.

I was thinking that the 5 link rear suspension need upgrading to reduce flex when the car is given 100% throttle....Has anyone upgraded the rear control links, etc? That might be a great mod - tie the motor down and upgrade the rear suspension control arms, etc.

KrzyFast

 

This was ment to hold motor in and not break things.

It could assist in weight transfer at take off a little bit.

My rear is down and good, have both wheels pulling due to the LSD phantom grip. Iam doing 354 hp now and that is before the addition of my manifold mod.

Enjoy WW

 

Great post, Woody. I tried it tonight and it works great. Now maybe the bad motor mount won't keep me from the track tomorrow.

WEEKEND!!!!!!

 

Did you feel it give out? Did you beat your ET at least?

 

Haha that's kind of nifty. Any more pics of the set up showing how it wraps around? Does anybody actually make stiffer motor mounts or inserts or an engine dampener?

 

I see we brought back an old thread, I have a engine "brace" that I use, conntects to the top of the struts and the 2 deep holes right above the supercharger, works great for me, looks just like a strut brace on most cars, Ill have to get some pictures for you guys

 

I wanna see that! How does it clear your intake?

 

Great idea! Please do.

 

Yes, I felt it give halfway through the day. I'd already got my PB that day, but I did get a few lower ET's after it broke. Maybe popping the mount is a good track mod?

 

Pics and part numbers please.

 

Grip. Give me your email. Ill mail them too you and if you could host them. Im at work then racing all weekend and wont be able to post on my computer.
Answer the questions. It only works with a needswings single and was custome made so no part number. If a lot of people are intrested I could talk to my machine shop and possibly get some made