i own an aeroblue srt-6. i bought the car stock with 34k on it.

i noticed that sometimes when i press the gas, the car will kick down 2 gears but not accelerate like it should. it has incredibly slow acceleration.

other times, it kicks down and hauls ***.

does anybody elses car do this? is there a way to fix it? does anybody know the cause? is it related to heat? (it does this when the car is at running/operating temperature..//.\\.. never when its cold)

please help. im tired of not taking chances because of not knowing wether i will be able to accelerate fast enough to make up with traffic before being hit. since i do live in Atlanta, we have tons of traffic.

 

Hey! We'll from your problems... I can PROMISE you that it is your intercooler pump... which i know is kinda hard to envision on your supercharged engine... but none-the-less its there...(liquid to air charger)

All crossfire SRT6's have this problem and every single one of them has to have it replaced, often more than once so I found out... I just replaced mine a few weeks ago with the same problems and it was like night and day....

So if you have the warranty still on it, take it to the dealership and have them replace it... if not, the Johnson pump is the way to go, much better than what the dealership would give you, although its going to cost $$.

(BTW, The service guys @ my dealership were fairly oblivious to the solution even after I told them, so be sure to press your point...)

Kolme

 

Just buy the Johnson Pump, the dealer will waste time and money replacing sensors.

Buy here....

EuroCharged Performance- Mercedes, BMW, and Chrysler Performance Parts and Tuning

 

Yup....what they said.


Another IC pump bites the dust.

 

If you buy this dont you think you'll need a supercooler?

 

when mine did that i took it to the dealer and they said that, thatwasn't the problem,, took it back the next day they sais ok we'll change it just to make you happy,,, now i am happy ,,they even gave me the old pump, saying nothing was wrong with it. jim

 

99% of the time you are correct. I would also suggest you replace this first as it will need it eventually anyways. However, I had the same symptoms that plagued many SRT owners, just as they are the OP. I replaced my stock Bosch pump with the Johnson, still no fix. I replaced the IAT Sensor, and still no luck.

In the end it turned out to be the Ambient Air Temperature Sensor had shorted out and was causing the engine to dump fuel/pull timing thus causing the supercharge to overheat...No good.

Replaced the pump, if that doesn't fix it come back and we can help you some more.

My $.02

 

i would like to add my .02 to a couple points.
1 johnson pump is 149$ from apeusa.com only 79$ more then the bosch.
2. without a supercooler or let upgrade neither the bosch or the cm30 will properly cool the s/c. the ford pump most use needs the end replaced with the factory hoses and wire plug. the johnson needs a plug end added and a hole drilled for the mount.
3. dont forget to check the 5 amp fuse (#23 in the fuse box) and replace it with a 7.5 amp fuse. the smaller fuse blows when the pump kicks in, and the c32 motor has a 7.5 installed. no issues if you upgrade.

 

The SRT 6 uses a 10 amp fuse for the pump and it's #13 in the fuse box.

 

i saw this in tighed1 's post . i guess they finally updated the amperage.

 

I replaced my pump with the Johnson pump and it worked great for about 6 months then it started blowing fuses so I replaced it with a 15 amp fuse and now the pump isn't working. The only good thing is it doesn't blow fuses now. I guess it's time for another one.

 

Don't make the $175 mistake and replace your stock pump for a Johnson just yet. I did and still had the overtemp problem.


I would suggest to first separate your cooling systems so the heat exchanger (HE) isn't also trying to cool the engine coolant. It's practically free 'cept for the cost of a few hose clamps that you probably have laying around anyway.

Remove your front grille and go here... (copy & paste link) https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/tsbs-how-articles/35362-how-super-cooler-install.html#post387956 and follow starting from step 8.

Pull off the top hose on your HE and drain in a bucket.

Run a 27", 5/8" hose from the top connection of your HE to the top intercooler connection. Plug the hoses noted in steps 8 & 10.

See if that doesn't work first. If it does you can pay me!

Note: the stock HE only holds 2 cups of coolant!!!

I have the stock pump on my roadster (with a Super Cooler) and have been driving HARD in mid 90+ degree weather without any problems!

 

I had my pump installed and I don't believe there have been any fuse problems.

Is this a must?

First I've heard of this...........

 

No, The stock 10 amp fuse is fine. I only replaced mine with a 15 amp fuse to see if it would fix the prpblem because it kept blowing out but it was a problem with the pump not the fuse.

 

tighed1 i do like the supercooler. upon inspection of my old pump the copper windings were burnt in 2 places. i have researched this on many forums and this problem exits on every supercharged car m/b has using the bosch pump from the slk32 to the c32 to the sl55 and including the srt-6. while some pumps last a very long time most bosch pump fail . its not a question of will it fail but WHEN will it fail. replacing with another brand simply aleviates this problem from arising. most think its because of the pump sitting for extended periods but i think its just a bad pump!
possibly the failure of robby363 cm30 could be due to trying to push 4 gpm threw a small ineffective h/e. to date his is the only failure of a cm30 i have seen on 3 forums
i have seen many torn between the lightning pump and the cm30. when buying a 20k car why quibble over 80$? the mods need to install the cm30 only require a small soldering of the factory electrical clip and drilling 1 hole in the stock mount position.

 

My car is doing the EXACT same thing, but sometimes it has a loss of power for awhile other times it looses it then kicks straight back in, so I'm wondering if it may be an eletrical fault rather then the IC pump? any thoughts guys

 

this is an electrical pump. the windings were burnt in m ine so think of it like a starter with a bad solenoid. sometimes it starts and sometimes it just zings, when on the bad windings. so in a sense it is an electrical problem connected to the i/c pump

 

Guys,
Mine just did the same thing...the SC would work then it wouldn't...it all happend on a trip coming back from Charlottesville, VA this past weekend.
I replaced the pump with the Johnson I bought last year and just never installed. Up until this trip the car NEVER had a problem even in the dead of summer with the AC on high. Anyway i put the Johnson pump in...and everything seemed to be okay going in to work and then it started again....I never checked the No. 13 fuse. It is a 10 amp fuse and it was blown. I guess the Bosh pump being old and weak, blew the fuse, but the car has just enough cooling capacity to allow the SC to kick in sometimes even if the pump is not working (this is just normal highway driving and NOT racing).

If your SC is kicking in and out and you are not racing, check the fuse and then replace the pump with a Johnson CM30 - Remember to Burp the cooling system after you replace the pump to get any air out. Your car will be screaming like never before even in the hot Atlanta Sun.

Once you start racing it, do like everyone else has recommended and seperate the system and put in a SuperCooler. You won't regret it.

Waldig has a great post and pics on Burping your cooling system after you install the pump. There is a link to it in my recent post "Loss of Power".

Good luck.

Cheers,
KrzyFast