I've been frequently changing my pulley's in search of the cause of a problem I've been having. Although I recently diagnosed and fixed this problem the many times I had to change the pulley's have given the tensioner pulley a pretty good beating. It has taken so much of a beating that the E11 bolt that is used to loosen the belt has pretty much stripped completely bare. I want to reinstall the belt wrap kit to fix a squeaking issue I'm having but I'm afraid if i try to take the belt off I'm going to strip the bolt even more and I might not be able to put the belt back on. In this case would replacing the tensioner pulley also replace this E11 bolt or would I have to do something more drastic to get the bolt replaced? Also if any of you guys are wondering how I really stripped the E11 bolt it most likely happened becasue I was forced to use an E10 socket on the tensioner pulley instead of an E11. It seems that the E11 socket is quite an ellusive size at least in the garages I've been to. Any assistance would be very helpful.
Brandon

 

I have the same issue facing me very soon - I did notice that when looking for a new tensioner there are many listed as "updated" which appear to have went to the more standard adjustment -square 3/8" drive hole.

 

i have the same problem which is why i havent done a DIY belt wrap kit yet.

 

i stripped the tensioner on mine. very easy to do! a factory oem replacement is running 500$. parts .com has the same pulley tensioner for 197$. if you look at the style you are referring to with a nut welded to the tensioner the pulley is a different style than the oem with a bearing. its bolted on the tensioner as a single assy. not sure of the longevity of this style of pulley so i just orded the oem from parts.com

heres a link to purchase the elusive e11! http://bloomertool.com/FemaleTorxSockets.html

 

When ever a bolt is starting to strip, you can install a threaded stud that will thread ALL the way into the female thread. Use thread locker to hold it and use a nut for the clamping.

As compared to a bolt, a stud has full thread engagement to your advantage. THis will provide better support and reduce the risk of pulling out the remaining threads in the female portion of an assembly.

Best of luck to you, Woody

 

the torx they are speaking of is a male threaded bolt with a male torx on the end. you slip the tensioner pulley over the threaded stud then appply the nut. the torx is used for the leverage to slip the belt on.

no way to insert a threaded stud if you click on this link and enlarge the foto you will see the tensioner torx at the end of the stud. cheaper on parts.com
http://www.bmaparts.com/ShopByVehicl...sioner&mode=PA

 

No problems with the 178 crank pulley. Alot less issues. No cooling mods, belt wraps, i/c separation, etc..........just a little more usuable power. It is harder to install though.

 

Yo, yo, yo.
Why are you guy's still messing with that E11 tork or what ever it is???

I've had my pulleys' on/off more times than I can remember and I have yet to use "that" bolt.

I use a 15mm combination box wrench (with another wrench for leverage) on the outer nut that the E11 goes into.

I'll post pics to help explain this later if it will help. Now leave that E11 alone!

 

i've tried this and i swear i was loosening the tensioner pulley

 

To be sure you aren't loosening the nut, or if it does loosen, first tighten it a bit more than it is. When you "pull" back to release belt tension do it smoothly. Don't jerk it like yer tryin' to remove the nut.

 

I tried using the lock nut on mine and it just loosened it. I guess you could put a little blue loctite on it and tighten it good and be fine. I'll have to go double check my tensioner. I am 99.9% sure that I am using an E10 torx socket and it fits perfectly.

 

think your on the wrong thread. this is regarding the tensioner pulley

 

LOL! I think he just throws that out there every now and then.

 

I double checked and the torx on my tensioner pulley's are both E10's. E11 would be sloppy and likely slip off if not carefull.

 

My car's tensioner uses a torx E10. I can see how it could get buggered up though.

Les

 

Hrmmm idk I just remember when I was reading the instructions for the code 3 supercharger pulley install an E11 was required to do the install because it was used on the tensioner pulley but I think I either remembered it wrong or Code 3 got it wrong. Either way I think your quite right though and that eases my mind a little bit knowing that I was using the correct torx socket. But I think I'm gonna give the standard nut a try, I really dont want to have to spend $200 for those replacement pulleys and definetly dont want to spend $500 from the dealer. Thanks for the suggestion Tighed.
Brandon

 

Ok, here's what I was talking about. 15mm wrench (on the right) with another wrench interlocked to provide leverage.



Here's a picture of the wrenches mounted, ready for action.
Works perfect! Just enough play to loosen the belt up.

 

Thanks for the pictures those helped out a lot. Just curious, it looks like you have a different belt on your car which one did you use?

 

Believe its a Gatorback belt. Came with the car.
Also came with that 192mm crank pulley!

FYI - Professor Woody doesn't like the Gatorback belt. Seems to be working just fine on this application.

 

At least you have a justification for doing a half a$$ job on a beautiful automobile. In this world of the internet no tool is more than a day away.