Just "upgraded" to disk italia titanium kevlar pads, and now the brakes feel about half as responsive as before!!
Is this due to a need to warm up? I only drove for maybe ten minutes with them so far, with no hard braking...

 

some pads need to be bedded in before hard use. this consists of multiple complete stops from aprox 30 mph to 0 . it heats the pads and burns off the protective layer applied.
if you pushed your calipers pucks in during the replacement air may have entered the system. bleeding may help motion has a power bleeder that works great

 

right on.....break your brakes in...and I would purchase stainless steel lines, and high performance brake fluid as well...might as well do it right, and bleed the system after you flush the old out and the new in... it took me about 600 miles to really be comfortable with mine...I'll bleed mine before the dragon...just to make sure we are all tightened up...that dang mtn could hurt...

 

I have the same TK pads on slotted rotors. I did a break in of half a dozen runs up to 60 and VERY firm braking back to about 10mph. I also put the Goodridge SS line and super blue fluid in at the same time. Then on my way home some moron pulled out right in front of me on the overpass. The brakes worked REALLY good! That was last fall, I am still happy with the breaking performance.

 

Snongy brakes by any other name is "Air In Your Lines"!
Have them blead by a brake shop, no big deal.
Worth the small amount they will charge you.
Mike

 

Someone talk to me about the stainless steel brakelines: where did you get them and how much? Does it really make a difference over oem? PS - I find the brakes on my SRT6, with new rotors and disk italia pads as of last summer, to be less firm than the oem setup in my roadster. Of course, the roadster has always been babied and I have no idea what the original owner did to the SRT6.

 

paid approx 75 shipped for my goodridge ss lines from ebay. they dont flex as much as rubber giving a firmer feel. most folks dont bleed the system after doing pad changes. its really needed. i also use motul blue brake fluid which has a much higher boiling point and wet braking point. not cheap but well worth it

and i know the consensus in the forum is rotex pads or italia's. i may suggest trying akebono eruo ceramic pads. while these may not be the best for hard autocross guys they are great on the street have NO dust and NO squeal. i have them on mine and they are the best pads i have ever used. just my .02

 

I have Goodridge stainless lines. They came from Rob at Needswings. I truthfully don't think you need them. They look nice and are harder to damage but other than that I didn't notice a difference. The story is they give a firmer pedal, less deflection. I now also have Porterfield RS4 pads and ATE Blue. When they are cold they take more pressure to stop. When they are hot they stop great. I feel like the pedal is not as firm as stock or stops on the street as easy. On the track they out perform the stock pads but it's not night and day. The real difference is they don't fade no matter how they are abused or how hot they get. (so far at least) The stock pads have enough grip to overpower the stock tires. So, in my assessment you don't want to change the stock pads unless your looking for less dust or you take the car to track day or autocross. Stock worked fine for me at the drag races. Now that my pads have a few track days on them they will squeal when cold. After a few stops the noise goes away. Just make a check list of how you realistically use the car to see if you need them or just want to change for looks or bragging. What works great at the track typically is not so good for everyday usage. Racing parts do look hot on any car. My opinion of course, from my experience.

Les