New belt! slower ET and Trap
Originally Posted by cruzinquick
Take the guessing out of it and datalog. Has to be one of the first mods if your going to run it hard. At least for the safety of your car.
x2................at the VERY least you need to install a wideband A/F gauge when modding any boosted vehicle.
Originally Posted by waldig
Ugh, not belt lube...............................Belt dressing. You dont want to do anything that may slip the belt, it will burn up.
The weather is changing and the cooler weather can lean you some. Boost your fuel pressure to correct this but you must know the f/a. I have two sensors and they are not in agreement at times, one is slower than the other it seems.
Woody
The weather is changing and the cooler weather can lean you some. Boost your fuel pressure to correct this but you must know the f/a. I have two sensors and they are not in agreement at times, one is slower than the other it seems.
Woody
Loctite Belt Dressing and Conditioner Restore and maintain belt life with Loctite belt dressing and conditioner.
Loctite belt dressing and conditioner extends belt life by penetrating the cord fibers of "V" belts to restore pliability and flexibility. Loctite belt dressing and conditioner prevents belt slippage due to heat, cold, dampness, dust, and glazing, plus it helps to eliminate squeaking and slipping.
Hmm this stuff really helps? any recommended brands? i'll give the stuff a try.
Loctite belt dressing and conditioner extends belt life by penetrating the cord fibers of "V" belts to restore pliability and flexibility. Loctite belt dressing and conditioner prevents belt slippage due to heat, cold, dampness, dust, and glazing, plus it helps to eliminate squeaking and slipping.
Hmm this stuff really helps? any recommended brands? i'll give the stuff a try.
Ok well found out a few new things today visiting Eurocharged. We ran the car on dyno and for sure at around 4,400 rpms torque drops off pretty bad that would explain the 12.2-.3's. Tony tried to make adjustments on the tune but no matter what adjustment he made torque just kept dieing at around 4,400 I think we tried 4-5 different tunes. So at this point it was obvious its not a tuneing issue and we installed the original Eurocharged tony tune. Examined the belt and still seemed like new no signs of slipping. Tony asked me about my plugs told him i still had the original plugs in the car and last time i checked they still looked like new and were at the right gap. We decided to pull a plug and check just in case and sure enough the plug didnt look to bad but was blown out to .040 which is WAY out of range. So obviously the addition of the tune on top of the other mods was a little to much for the stock plugs. Next monday i will be installing new spark plugs one heat range colder(prevents blowout) and gapping them a little tighter at .030.
*crosses fingers*
*crosses fingers*
Well today i tried some new plugs. The 1 step colder NGK's wont be in till tuesday morning so i bought a set of ACDELCO copper cores 41-602's and put them in. The car did not like these AT ALL had blowout at 4,500.... Got back home said **** it and put the stock plugs back in but i changed the gaps which were .039-.043 down to .034-.035. Took her for a test spin and all was normal and i swear my topend is back again now car just rocketed to 2nd gear. The stock plugs did look like they were in acceptable health at 20k maybe just the reduction in gap fixed it or my butt dnyo is jumping the gun.
Goign to the track tomarrow and i will do a run with the stock plugs gapped down to .035 and see if the everything is back to normal. If im still running 12.2-12.3's with slightly lower trap i'll put the NGK's in and try them.
Goign to the track tomarrow and i will do a run with the stock plugs gapped down to .035 and see if the everything is back to normal. If im still running 12.2-12.3's with slightly lower trap i'll put the NGK's in and try them.
Originally Posted by ProjectMayhem
Well today i tried some new plugs. The 1 step colder NGK's wont be in till tuesday morning so i bought a set of ACDELCO copper cores 41-602's and put them in. The car did not like these AT ALL had blowout at 4,500.... Got back home said **** it and put the stock plugs back in but i changed the gaps which were .039-.043 down to .034-.035. Took her for a test spin and all was normal and i swear my topend is back again now car just rocketed to 2nd gear. The stock plugs did look like they were in acceptable health at 20k maybe just the reduction in gap fixed it or my butt dnyo is jumping the gun.
Goign to the track tomarrow and i will do a run with the stock plugs gapped down to .035 and see if the everything is back to normal. If im still running 12.2-12.3's with slightly lower trap i'll put the NGK's in and try them.
Goign to the track tomarrow and i will do a run with the stock plugs gapped down to .035 and see if the everything is back to normal. If im still running 12.2-12.3's with slightly lower trap i'll put the NGK's in and try them.
Well under extreme cases the car wont go above a certain rpm because it is blowing the spark out on the plug, other times it might be hard to notice like slightly weakacceleration after a certain rpm. These are the same symptoms if your plug is gapped to far apart or if the electrodes and ground are worn out on a plug. Which Iridiums last a very long time but also look at the ceramic around the iridium tip if its extremely black or gunked over the plug gap is wrong or the plug your runing is to cold. If the ceramic is yellow/orange burnt colored then your plug is getting to hot. A few of the stock plugs had some very light yellowing which means it wouldn't hurt to drop down a heat range when you modify these cars.
I still dont know if my weaker power after 4,400 rpm is plug related but that what i'll try to find out tuesday night at the track.
Not that that my 12.2-12.3 times aren't bad BUT the car has ran 12.0's is 2500 DA so i know somethings off just gotta hunt down the problem.
SIDE NOTE when changing your spark plugs you need a swivel head adapter, 1-3/4 extension, and the back plug on both side you have to assable the 5/8 socket and extension on the plug then attach the socket wrench and swivel head because of the tiny space given back there. Taking the coil pack off to get the plug wires is a pita as well but other than that its not the hardest spark plug job i have done.
I still dont know if my weaker power after 4,400 rpm is plug related but that what i'll try to find out tuesday night at the track.
Not that that my 12.2-12.3 times aren't bad BUT the car has ran 12.0's is 2500 DA so i know somethings off just gotta hunt down the problem.
SIDE NOTE when changing your spark plugs you need a swivel head adapter, 1-3/4 extension, and the back plug on both side you have to assable the 5/8 socket and extension on the plug then attach the socket wrench and swivel head because of the tiny space given back there. Taking the coil pack off to get the plug wires is a pita as well but other than that its not the hardest spark plug job i have done.
Last edited by ProjectMayhem; Sep 29, 2009 at 12:11 AM.
Well mixed results last night the reduced gap seemed to make little difference, first pass was a 12.114@112.1 MPH with a 17.67 60 ft. Put in 1 gal of 100 oct in 4 gal 93 and got a 12.06@114.4 MPH spinning of the line with a 1.89 60ft... So that twice now with more octane in the car i get my topend back. it has to be some issuse with the tune or a change in the premium gas. Its strange though the day i got my custom Eurocharged tune i had shell 93 in her but now she pulls timing after 4,400 rpms till redline. I wonder if there was some change in the 93 octane since then? AFR is goof fyi so it must be in the timing.
has anyone else seen weaker top end power on 93 gas?
has anyone else seen weaker top end power on 93 gas?
Last edited by ProjectMayhem; Oct 1, 2009 at 11:56 PM.
Originally Posted by ProjectMayhem
Well mixed results last night the reduced gap seemed to make little difference, first pass was a 12.114@112.1 MPH with a 17.67 60 ft. Put in 1 gal of 100 oct in 4 gal 93 and got a 12.06@114.4 MPH spinning of the line with a 1.89 60ft... So that twice now with more octane in the car i get my topend back. it has to be some issuse with the tune or a change in the premium gas. Its strange though the day i got my custom Eurocharged tune i had shell 93 in her but now she pulls timing after 4,400 rpms till redline. I wonder if there was some change in the 93 octane since then? AFR is goof fyi so it must be in the timing.
has anyone else seen weaker top end power on 93 gas?
has anyone else seen weaker top end power on 93 gas?
well, i was thinking it may be the nitrogen that shell puts in their gas...
but honestly, i thought that would be a hindrance not helpful...so i just don't know.
there is definitely some differences between fueling stations... i stay at the big 4 (exxon, shell, bp, chevron) as much as i can.
but honestly, i thought that would be a hindrance not helpful...so i just don't know.
there is definitely some differences between fueling stations... i stay at the big 4 (exxon, shell, bp, chevron) as much as i can.
Originally Posted by ZAHANMA
well, i was thinking it may be the nitrogen that shell puts in their gas...
but honestly, i thought that would be a hindrance not helpful...so i just don't know.
there is definitely some differences between fueling stations... i stay at the big 4 (exxon, shell, bp, chevron) as much as i can.
but honestly, i thought that would be a hindrance not helpful...so i just don't know.
there is definitely some differences between fueling stations... i stay at the big 4 (exxon, shell, bp, chevron) as much as i can.
Originally Posted by distantpulse
You brought up an idea I have. Has anyone run a mixutre of toulene in their cars? I am thinking of trying this for added octane. 
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...g-toluene.html
i wouldnt mess with paint thinner, just get a gallon of the klotz octane booster for $54 and every 1oz per gallon raises it 2.5 numbers= 93 octane to 95.5, 4oz= 98octane and so on http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.a...7&submit2=View and unlike the paint thinner this is safe for your O2 sensors.
a gallon lasts a long time. klotz makes race fuel too. call them if you have questions: http://www.klotzlube.com/
buy it here,
Hi-Performance Engineering Klotz Products
Octane Booster
(Reference #KL-628)
$51.95 GALLON
($2 handling reflected in price)
11 In Stock
it is cheaper than torco, the only other REAL octane booster.
a gallon lasts a long time. klotz makes race fuel too. call them if you have questions: http://www.klotzlube.com/
buy it here,
Hi-Performance Engineering Klotz Products
Octane Booster
(Reference #KL-628)
$51.95 GALLON
($2 handling reflected in price)
11 In Stock
it is cheaper than torco, the only other REAL octane booster.
Last edited by mrphotoman; Oct 2, 2009 at 11:31 AM.
Originally Posted by mrphotoman
i wouldnt mess with paint thinner, just get a gallon of the klotz octane booster for $54 and every 2oz per gallon raises it 2.5 numbers= 93 octane to 95.5, 4oz= 98octane and so on
buy it here, a gallon lasts a long time. klotz makes race fuel too. call them if you have questions: Klotz Synthetic Oil
Hi-Performance Engineering Klotz Products
Octane Booster
(Reference #KL-628)
$51.95 GALLON
($2 handling reflected in price)
11 In Stock
it is cheaper than torco, the only other REAL octane booster.
buy it here, a gallon lasts a long time. klotz makes race fuel too. call them if you have questions: Klotz Synthetic Oil
Hi-Performance Engineering Klotz Products
Octane Booster
(Reference #KL-628)
$51.95 GALLON
($2 handling reflected in price)
11 In Stock
it is cheaper than torco, the only other REAL octane booster.
seriously call klotz, they are really nice and will answer all your questions.
klotz and torco are the 2 well known octane boosters that actually work.
i use empty HEET bottles and refill them with the klotz to keep in the car, it holds 12oz and 1 12oz bottle will change 4 gallons of gas to 100.5 octane.
klotz and torco are the 2 well known octane boosters that actually work.
i use empty HEET bottles and refill them with the klotz to keep in the car, it holds 12oz and 1 12oz bottle will change 4 gallons of gas to 100.5 octane.


