Update, local XF expert at dealership deducted the fan resistor module is defective. He says he's been working on these cars since 2004. OK, will take him at his word but I don't think thats the problem. I think its the heat/AC control module but what do I know. They ordered the resistor module and I await their call to schedule replacement. After I took the car back from them, the fan now runs continuousely, even when its selection **** is set to off. It also is now going willynilly (yes its a new coined technical term I made up) as in it is sometimes variable speed (without regared to the fan selection position sometimes lower at high settings sometimes high at lower settings) and its just got a mind (willynilly) of its own.

It'll be back in the shop when they call me to install that resistor module, and then they will have to order the control module. Will be interesting if the resistor module actually does fix this (if in fact the module at the fan is actually a resistor, that is).

cruzinquick, there are no pneumatic lines/hoses connected to the control. It is all wiring (@ 21 or less, very small gauge), and its got two pegs that key into connectors that mount on dampers inside the plenum of the heat/ac unit. Thats all there is to that control.

Forgot to add: The guy (local dealership XF expert) said he hates working on these, too many screws. This job for the ac control only invlves two screws above the radio (after taking the radio out). The rest is simple locking tabs. Maybe he was talking about the fan module near the cabin air filter, haven't gotten to open that area up yet.....

 

Do we have another module that may have bad solder joints? You may be on to another gremlin fixed for our cars.

 

Do you mean the fan blower control? I always suspected that was the problem... at least that is what they told me both times I had this same problem. I always thought it was the switch unit itself and not a module.

 

blackcrossfire07, the module they are calling a blower resistor is located right next to and on the blower fan mounting plate (according to the service manual set secton 24-74 or so depending on your service manual set revision). Its located under (and inside) the passenger lower under-dash trim panel. Its the same panel you remove to change the cabin air filter (if memory serves me correctly, I have yet to open that area up yet just going by the reading I have done).

No idea what is inside the heat/ac control that is above the radio, it is incased in plastic and since I do not get to keep that (or any other part because its under warranty) I am not going to try to take that module apart. The same goes for the blower motor regulator, since they will probably keep the old one when they install the new one. I wonder if they will not "charge" my VIN for the part if it is not the correct fix? Its surprising how many spare parts are out there that were ordered for and never installed on cars because that particular part was not the cause of the fault.

The dealership called today late, they set up my appointment for Friday the 30th at 9am, will get back to forum after that event concludes. I think I will go out to the garage tomorrow and count/inventory the screws and procedures to get at that module (called a regulator), in case somethig winds up scratched/damaged during fridays appointment. Sad but true many dealership employees are not very concerned with customers property.

Must correct previous entries in past posts, the manual calls this "resistor" (as the dealership technician calls it) a regulator. The regulator wiring diagram is insufficient (so far as I can tell) to deduce what its function actually is. Page 24-54 shows pin 7 (wt/pk) from the heater control module as some sort of signal for the power to the motor itself from fuse 36 through the fan motor, to ground. I can tell you the wire size for that pin 7 circuit would never handle the current for that motor, hence the statement that it is a signal wire of some sort. There was a reference in a chart somewhere, in the notes section for the blower motor, stating "resistor" so it just might be a high current resistor block at that.

Till next time!

 

That is the other symptom of the same problem. The fan speed is all messed up.... sometimes it blows too fast and sometimes it doesn't blow at all. Sometimes it will just start blowing for no reason. Fast speed at level 1.... or speed #3 at level one. It just acts wierd. There is no vacum hose.... this is an electrical issue. It happened to me twice in 4 years. Both times the dealer said they put a whol enew switch on. That this is a common problem. That is all I know!

 

OK, update! New"regulator" put in at the fan. Guess what, same problem. Now here is the funny part. The tech said the "resistor" was burned out but if the fan works at all, it could not have been burned out. Also, the parts lady showed me the part... The third terminal was bent over slightly, not sure when that happened... I think they have to show the part was damaged when they return it to chrysler though, so maybe thats why it wasn't in pristine condition. Anyway, the fan is still going crazy, and the new ac/heat control module is on order. They estimate delivery to them on tuesday the 3rd, and after that comes in, they will call me and schedule for the appointment. Man I sure hope they get it in without breaking anything in the car!

Truthfully though, they are a bunch of nice people there at the dealership... Lets see how well they warm up to me as the problems pop up...

OK, so the fan goes nuts, I still love this car!

 

Keep us posted.
I will be interesting to see what finally fixes it.

 

OK, here is the final word (until this one goes wacky). The fan works just like its supposed to now. Its now progressively higher in speed and it seems the other functions work as well.

Now the interesting part, what is the fan speed during the "REST" function? This is the Risidual Engine Heat Utilization (REST) function for when the car is off and there is some heat left in the system. Its not variable, only one real low speed. It does not run faster or slower (doesn't matter what the fan dial is on). Does anyone know if that is supposed to be a low speed fan only on that?

Now for the crazy part. I saw the guy having a helluva time removing his 'radio removal' keys from the radio. He was trying to stick a screwdriver/something into the sides to release the keys. I saw that and called out loudly (I know, it was an impulse, but I didn't want him distroying my cd/nav radio) "You don't have to do that, they come right out, I can help you with that". He spun around some, loudly said 'I know what I am doing' and turned his back to me and sat on his stool. A few techs went over to him and every once in a while they looked at me. Afterwards, he took what looked like an extension cable off my radio and put it on the work desk. When I got home I took my radio out (had bought a double set [one set for a ford radio, one set for this radio] of tools at wal-mart like was listed in one of these posts in here) and noticed the GPS antenna wire cord seemed much shorter. I think there was an extension cord on the gps wire (about 99.9% sure) but cannot be 100% sure. My question, is there a neccessary addition to the gps wire thats supposed to be there? Maybe it is a short extension, maybe its an adaptor, maybe its a cable that adapts the installed antenna for the gps, to the radio (impedance matching device). Since I have yet to open/install the nav disks (long story) I am now in the position to be wondering if there was supposed to be a cable there or not. If it was an extension, ok maybe its not neccessary but why would he take it off? If its an impedance matching wire then for sure its a neccessary wire so the antenna matches to the radio. Either way, its bugging me to no end. Has anyone else seen this extension wire (it would have a connection a few inches down the wire from where the plug fits into the radio by the harness) on the lower left side of the radio next to the cable harness? I am pretty sure its only on the nav radios so if you don't have one then no reply is neccessary. I can not find anything concrete in the service manual set listing this wire but since mine was a optional added radio it might not be listed in my manual. Any help from the nav radio guys out there?

 

If it is the resistor then isn't that under the glovebox? If that is the case then why did they take your radio out?

Both times this problem happened to me they took the radio out and told me it was the switch unit. Don't ask me because I don't know. I didn't care because it was all covered under warranty.

As for the cable.... I don't understand these dealerships. It wouldn't surprise me if they took something out and didn't put it back. I got my car back one time and it had screws lying around in my tray. As for getting the key out of the radio, I did this once myself and I remember there being a technique to it. It isn't difficult.

 

blackcrossfire07, did you read post 26? Your one dealership visit behind. They replaced the ac/heat control unit today and it fixed the fan speed problem. Yes the "resistor" (which chrysler calls a regulator) last week didn't solve the problem. Just back up to my first post here (number 19) that'll give you all the info on my solved problem (except that dang jumper(?) wire behind the cd/nav radio thats driving me crazy, and it might be a non-issue).

 

OK sorry about that. I knew it was the control unit... that is what they told me both times at the dealership. Thanks!

 

Answered your own question!

 

If I had a set of keys to remove the radio, I'd do so and let you know. I'll search for the "radio removal keys" and pick up a set - wanted a set anyway as I want to take the radio out to look at putting in a mod.

As for impedance matching - I would assume the radio's GPS input is 50 ohms - and every antenna I have found is 50 ohms - only the connectors differ. If there is an adapter needed, and he left it out, then I would think the cable would not plug in without the adapter.

If I can get a set of keys, I'll yank my radio/nav out and check back in here tonight.

 

Hey pizzaguy, I found mine at wal-mart (someone in a post here at crossfireforum.org directed me to them). It was a fairly inexpensive set they had the ford DIN "U" shaped tools and the european set for many vehicles and specifically for the mercedes SLK class. The tools fit perfectly in the crossfire radio and they are idiot proof (a feature I much appreciate). Each tool says TOP-L or TOP-R (meaning the side where the printing is on, is the top of the tool, and of course left and right means your military left and right). You gently slip the correct tool into the radio slot (lower left and lower right) and push until it clicks. When both are clicked into place, loop a finger in each side and the radio comes right out. If the tool comes out, or the radio does not come out, check the right one is in the right side and the left one is in the left side top up and try it again. They have to firmly click, the radio comes right out if the tool is inserted far enough and properly clicked.

THIS PART IS IMPORTANT: To remove the tools you have to push the spring clip in (one side at a time) at the side of the radio where the tool is embedded into the radio. If you do not push that spring clip in, that tool will not come out. My clips are a greenish color and when I finally figured it out it was at least an hour after I stuck em into the slots and got the radio out. That was a very valuable lesson, because I was crazy confused why the dang things went in but would not come out. When you push those clips in, it releases the tool and you can slide them out easily. The result is that clip you pushed in on the side, is now the spring loaded clip that holds the radio in the dash when you slide it back into position.

The part number on my set (in wal-mart's auto stereo section) is DT1. On the back it has the UPC as " 0 33991 42011 3 ". If the part number doesn't come up on an associates tool, the UPC sure should! BTW, I think it was like $4.29 or something like that, very inexpensive! I've used the things a few times for my XF, and also tested the ford ones on the PU I have and they work grest as well...

 

I'll stop on the way home!

 

Ok, first, thanks for telling me what removal tool to get - MAN, did that work well!

Second, my GPS cable plugs right into the back of the head unit. There is no extension on it OR on the AM/FM cable AND the other wiring harness plugs right in as well.

Not sure what you saw/think you saw. I think the "screwdriver in the side of the unit" thing got you worried over nothing. (You sound like me - poor guy! )

I hope this helps you, 'cause post 34 really helped me. I am well on my way (I guess) to my Weather Radio mod.

 

Thanks pizzaguy, much appreciate the info. I've put my concern to rest!

Glad the info on the radio removal tool helped. I was bothered about something when I mentioned I paid $4.29 for the tool set and broke out my cc bill (I keep my receipts in the monthly statement in case something doesn't last) and I saw I had the right numbers but not in the right order. I paid $2.49 not $4.29.

Guess I'm too **** to let something like that slip by... Still, it got me busy for a few... I do believe I earned myself a beer for that one!

 

At the WalMart here in Griffin, GA - I paid $4.50 for that very removal kit!

I'm not upset, I got 8 quarts of Mobile One 0W40 for $6.27 a quart - 72 cents per quart less than either Auto Parts Store in town.

(I also got my O-Ring washer thingys today at AutoZone, so I am ready for my first oil change this weekend.)

Yea, I TRIED to help you, and I guess I did - but you helped me as well. (I'd be a LOST XF owner without this site.)

 

Hey pizzaguy, I have learned so much about my car from here since joining!

You did not try to help me, you helped me. I was going nuts about that phantom wire I thought I had there. Much appreciate your findings!

I have to believe in something, I believe I'll have another beer!

 

I am a little confused what is the fix to the problem? My fan just took on a wired noise I am afraid to use it.