Finally got around to downloading this app for iphone...not bad for $13.

Here is the best pass of today

0-10 MPH:0.89 sec
0-20 MPH:1.66 sec
0-30 MPH:2.38 sec
0-40 MPH:3.21 sec
0-50 MPH:4.07 sec
0-60 MPH:4.93 sec
0-70 MPH:5.82 sec
0-80 MPH:7.06 sec
0-90 MPH:8.38 sec
0-100 MPH:9.73 sec


Elapsed Time

60':2.50 sec@30.8 MPH
330':5.96 sec@70.1 MPH
1/8 mi:8.67 sec@92.4 MPH
1000':10.97 sec@107.0 MPH
1/4 mi:12.86 sec@119.6 MPH

Miscellaneous

Max Speed:119.6 MPH
Max Acceleration:0.68 G's
Peak Horsepower:326 HP

This looks to be pretty close, if you just solve the traction issue (2.5sec 60') and bring that down to the 1.7s I run at the track, you have a 12 second flat pass...thats about right.


Anyone else been playing around with this program and care to post your times?

 

If you're doing 1.7 60' and 119.6mph in the 1/4 you should be well into the 11 second club.....

 

LOL...don't be mad Mike, I bet you can run a 11.93 one day.

All jokes aside, I think the ET is pretty close, but not sure about the MHP!

 

that is what I was thinking..... 120mph on Dragtimes is LOW 11's....

 

Another cool app to download. I'll post my results once I get the SRT6 back on the road.

Who would have thought when we purchased our Crossfires that we would be able to use a cell phone to data log & for play back, to check & clear CEL's, monitor performance, have step-by-step navigation with a moving map, etc......

Considering adding an Ipad to the toy box for all the long X country flights I take....

 

Hmmm did u have major traction issues? With my accelerometer i consistantly get 4.5s to 60mph with my two mods in quiet industrial areas which are obviously not ideal compared to the track. With your pb 1/4 u should easily be doing 4.5s? I used my accelerometer at the track and was off by 0.15 of the track ET time. I think low 4s with your mods for sure

 

Lack of traction will inflate your trap speed. So hes really not a 120mph car. I can see why with a 2.5 60 foot he would trap 120.

 

Yes, I was having traction issues. I tried 4 or 5 times to launch differently, but the car would not hook up. On all passes, I would just roll into the throttle and let off a bit as soon as the tires start spinning, thats why I get the 2.5 60fts even with 285/30/20 rear tires.

On a prepped track, I can stall the car to 1600 rpm and pull 1.7-1.8 s all day, it is the cold concrete streets that are the issue.

I too feel the trap speeds are being inflated by the traction issues and the software. I useally run 114-116mph so 120 is a bit high.

Still a fun little toy~

 

I'm going to load this app on my Itouch and play around with it also should be fun...

 

Yeah, that's where I have mine. The thing is though that you never really can be sure the road is 100% flat. So it's best to just compare your own runs to each other instead of comparing your runs to someone else's. Even if you know your road is 100% flat, you don't know if someone else's is.

My best run (highway seems flat) from after the C3 pulley was as follows:
0-10 MPH: 0.89 sec
0-20 MPH: 1.50 sec
0-30 MPH: 2.13 sec
0-40 MPH: 2.81 sec
0-50 MPH: 3.69 sec
0-60 MPH: 4.60 sec
0-70 MPH: 5.69 sec
0-80 MPH: 7.10 sec
0-90 MPH: 8.58 sec
0-100 MPH: 10.18 sec

60' 2.37 sec @ 33.0 MPH
330' 5.73 sec @ 68.8 MPH
1/8 mi 8.50 sec @ 89.9 MPH
1000' 10.88 sec @ 103.9 MPH
1/4 mi 12.87 sec @ 112.6 MPH

Max Acceleration 0.75 G's
Peak Horsepower 295 HP (this is with weight 3550 lbs, 0% drivetrain loss = rwhp)

The mph is obviously a little high compared to what would be expected with my two mods. With cold weather, and stock tires on the highway, the best results for me were from just launching off idle, letting the brakes go first, then flooring it. It's kind of difficult to tell, but the part of the highway I run it on may slightly decline the last fourth of the 1/4 mile, which may explain the traps.

One thing I noticed after the code3 install is that after 4 runs (about 5-10 minutes apart since I have to get off at an exit, then go back the other way, stop at the same point, etc.), my traps drop from 112ish to 110ish. I figure that is from IATs or reduced timing. These runs were all in November-December, so the ambient air was cool. Before I got the code3 pulley, I didn't have any issue with traps dropping after a few runs. I got the coolant separation, and mean to do that shortly and see if it helps any.

Before the c3 pulley install (so with just NW dual intake), the best run was as follows:
0-10 MPH: 0.73 sec
0-20 MPH: 1.39 sec
0-30 MPH: 2.10 sec
0-40 MPH: 2.87 sec
0-50 MPH: 3.85 sec
0-60 MPH: 4.88 sec
0-70 MPH: 6.06 sec
0-80 MPH: 7.64 sec
0-90 MPH: 9.30 sec
0-100 MPH: 11.02 sec

60' 2.29 sec @ 31.4 MPH
330' 5.78 sec @ 66.5 MPH
1/8 mi 8.66 sec @ 84.6 MPH
1000' 11.12 sec @ 101.4 MPH
1/4 mi 13.18 sec @ 109.9 MPH

Max Acceleration 0.72 G's
Peak Horsepower 265 HP (this is with weight 3550 lbs, 0% drivetrain loss = rwhp)

This was done in the same location as the other, so are comparable to each other at least. Before the code3 pulley, I could launch at about 1500 rpm with about 80% throttle, and the 60' times were a little better. After the code3 pulley, it just spins.

As a side note, my peak hp readings are always at the top of 2nd gear. Is that the same for everyone else?

 

I downloaded that app months ago - back during race season. I used it at the track so I could compare my actual time slips to what Dynolicious said. Dynolicious was WAY off. There wasn't any part of what it reported that was even close. It was so bad, I didn't even keep the times.

I was gonna mess with it some more, but it's hard to find somewhere safe - outside of a track - to do quarter mile test runs.

BLKFIN: what numbers did you use for vehicle weight and percent drivetrain loss?

 

I assume you did the necessary provisions, such as: calibration, mounting it somewhere so it can't move at all in any direction, mounting it straight (can be angled up/down, but not sideways)? I don't think I've seen any reviews that had the Dynolicious app be WAY off from a track time. Most are very, very close.

 

I have the latest version that has a pretty interesting calibration procedure. I have heard issues with the first version of the software.
As for weight, I plugged in 3375 as my best guess. I had my car weighed at the track a couple years ago and it was 3450 with me, full tank of gas and my audio system that has since been removed. I figure 3375 is on the heavy side, but the weight is only used to calculate HP and I don’t really care about those figures. I did not put anything in for drive train loss.

If I recall, I saw somewhere on the forum that a stock SRT6 weight 3070 with no driver and 1/2 tank of gas.

 

I saw that a coupe SRT6 weighs 3240 with a full tank of gas; a roadster SRT6 weighs 3328 with a full tank of gas. Both weights are without driver, passenger, stuff in the trunk, etc.

edit: Here's the link http://www.media.chrysler.com/dcxms/...eSRT6specs.pdf

 

I have seen that too, but I also have seen 3 different SRT6's on the scales. As I mentioned above, mine was 3450 with me (180lbs) and a stereo system in the hatch that I am guessing weighed 70lbs.

I also have seen 240M3SRT and sowardcustoms cars on the scale and they both were 3355 if I recall. This is with them in the car and I would guess those guys weighed 150-175. I can not account for how much gas was in their car, but I bet it was less than 1/2 tank.

 

Thats about right. I weighed mine down at MIR and with me (170) in the car and a 1/2 tank of gas, I was at 3405. Scales will probably vary a little too.....

 

Well, gasoline weighs about 6 pounds per gallon. So taking the 3240 + 170 - 6*7 = 3368. That's pretty close to 3405. If you have some tools in the back, or items in your glove box, console, etc. then you're even closer.

3240+180+70-6*7=3448, which is close to your 3450

Again, tools, etc., different amount of gas, possibly the stereo weighs differently, but these numbers don't seem to be an indication that the curb weight given by Chrysler is wrong

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I think this was the most recent I found in search.

Anybody still using this actively? I have an N/A but was thinking about getting a tune + Intake and just wanted to see if I could get some general HP numbers to compare. Not really worried about 1/4 times I know they are nothing special

Anybody have close results as far a HP numbers go? And did road play any factor? Don't really have anywhere to let it rip but got a few spots for some 0-60s etc that are relatively straight.

Thanks!

 

Airscape, the numbers that you get from Dynolicious are not reliable. I wouldn't rely on them for anything. In fact, I wouldn't even call them HP numbers.

That said, if you still want to mess with it, it's cheap. Take some test measures before you tune. Then run the same runs with your mods and tune. It should show some improvement. But the numbers aren't really meaningful.

You would actually be better off going to a drag strip, make a couple of runs. Then mod & tune your car. Then go back to the same track and do a couple of runs. Compare your results. You can calculate horsepower from your drag strip times. Those are real numbers, and can be relied on as much as any dyno. Just be careful to account for weather at the drag strip.