I think I found it...
I have been fighting with a intermittant no start issue on the Aero for over a year. With some help from the guys here I narrowed it down to an unidentified load that was putting my voltage at under 10V when starting. I have also had a problem with my courtesy lamps in that when I have them enabled to come on when the door opens, they are always on and the trunk lamp is also on. So I have just had the switch off.
So today I decided to go find out which switch was not working and making them stay on. It was the trunk latch switch. It is broken and indicates that the trunk is always open. I unplugged the switch so now it thinks it is always closed and the courtesy lamps work just like you would want them too.
Next I got the meter out and tested the voltage when starting... 11V+!! Starts every time. Fires right off, just like it should.
Now I just need to buy a new latch... the switch is built in of course.
So today I decided to go find out which switch was not working and making them stay on. It was the trunk latch switch. It is broken and indicates that the trunk is always open. I unplugged the switch so now it thinks it is always closed and the courtesy lamps work just like you would want them too.
Next I got the meter out and tested the voltage when starting... 11V+!! Starts every time. Fires right off, just like it should.
Now I just need to buy a new latch... the switch is built in of course.
Originally Posted by MikeR
I have been fighting with a intermittant no start issue on the Aero for over a year. With some help from the guys here I narrowed it down to an unidentified load that was putting my voltage at under 10V when starting. I have also had a problem with my courtesy lamps in that when I have them enabled to come on when the door opens, they are always on and the trunk lamp is also on. So I have just had the switch off.
So today I decided to go find out which switch was not working and making them stay on. It was the trunk latch switch. It is broken and indicates that the trunk is always open. I unplugged the switch so now it thinks it is always closed and the courtesy lamps work just like you would want them too.
Next I got the meter out and tested the voltage when starting... 11V+!! Starts every time. Fires right off, just like it should.
Now I just need to buy a new latch... the switch is built in of course.
So today I decided to go find out which switch was not working and making them stay on. It was the trunk latch switch. It is broken and indicates that the trunk is always open. I unplugged the switch so now it thinks it is always closed and the courtesy lamps work just like you would want them too.
Next I got the meter out and tested the voltage when starting... 11V+!! Starts every time. Fires right off, just like it should.
Now I just need to buy a new latch... the switch is built in of course.
Originally Posted by oledoc2u
Nice investigation Mike....solving the illusive no start...dang cars have way too many safe guards for me...lol
It's always something!
Good work there Mike.
I'll add it to the "might be this" list.
roadster with a stick
That's great news Mike. Glad you got that figured out because I know it was giving you the beef for a long, long time. BTW, you get a chance to swap out that bad TB connector with the one I sent you with those washers? How'd everything go?
Originally Posted by MikeR
I have been fighting with a intermittant no start issue on the Aero for over a year. With some help from the guys here I narrowed it down to an unidentified load that was putting my voltage at under 10V when starting. I have also had a problem with my courtesy lamps in that when I have them enabled to come on when the door opens, they are always on and the trunk lamp is also on. So I have just had the switch off.
So today I decided to go find out which switch was not working and making them stay on. It was the trunk latch switch. It is broken and indicates that the trunk is always open. I unplugged the switch so now it thinks it is always closed and the courtesy lamps work just like you would want them too.
Next I got the meter out and tested the voltage when starting... 11V+!! Starts every time. Fires right off, just like it should.
Now I just need to buy a new latch... the switch is built in of course.
So today I decided to go find out which switch was not working and making them stay on. It was the trunk latch switch. It is broken and indicates that the trunk is always open. I unplugged the switch so now it thinks it is always closed and the courtesy lamps work just like you would want them too.
Next I got the meter out and tested the voltage when starting... 11V+!! Starts every time. Fires right off, just like it should.
Now I just need to buy a new latch... the switch is built in of course.
thanks Howard
Howard,
You will have to test the switch with a meter to see if it is working. Just remove the latch and manually latch and unlacth it while checking pins 1 and 2. There are three pins but only 1 & 2 get connected to the harness.
I couldnt even guess if it would affect the convertible top...
You will have to test the switch with a meter to see if it is working. Just remove the latch and manually latch and unlacth it while checking pins 1 and 2. There are three pins but only 1 & 2 get connected to the harness.
I couldnt even guess if it would affect the convertible top...
Originally Posted by hcarter
Mike my courtesy lights stay on also all the time unless i cut the switch off what should i look for on the switch in trunk actual crack or just a bad swich and do you think this could also effect the operation of the top ???
thanks Howard
thanks Howard
Originally Posted by tighed1
Nice troubleshooting there Mike.
Gonna have to keep this one in the ol' memory blank incase I see similar symptoms.
Gonna have to keep this one in the ol' memory blank incase I see similar symptoms.
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franklindm
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