The Rudy mod would be my next if I get rich enough.....

Imagine all the fun I could have at the track......

 

It's not just the money factor but it seems Rudy is the only one that can do it and do it right. If I knew I could buy a v8 and put it into my srt without headaches I would but the electronic side is enough to put me off that idea

 

32, there's a "Stock appearing" drag series out there that dictates "factory stock" tires need to be used. ie "Good Year Polyglass".
There's one guy breaking into the 10's with a Road Runner.
One of the best "launching" drag cars of the 60's/70's was the AMX. Numerous times here on the forum I've pointed out how similar most all the demensions are between the XF and the AMX (only the XF has even better weight distribution).
With the new posi rearend being offered, and the tires that fit under the XF's 1/4 panels, I don't think it will be a problem.

 

firstly the roadrunner is a HUGE car. much heavier than these cars. running street tires is much different than the car in question. also polyglass tires are bias ply and personally wouldnt want to be running high speeds with them. but thats just my .02
my 32 launches at 1800 rpm and at 2000 rpm im putting 337 ft/lbs of torque to the pavement. streets just wont grip. my goodyear eagle ss dr's grip enough to crack the diff. thats hookin!! im sure you could soft pedal the car off the line but by the time you get into the power im headin down the track at full speed. dr's win!

 

More horsepower, I have the answer .... hows about 600 of them?

 

your missing the point. the idea of the thread is how to get the most hp and lowest times fromt the 3.2 litre s/c engine. for 600hp plus talk to rudy!!

 

Meth meth meth. After i install the pulley thats sitting in my garage i plan on getting meth and tune at the same time. Both my previous f/i cars had it and loved it. Tuning is a must!!! Dont forget the downpipes!!!!! If our cars had quicker shifts along with what i just mentioned 11 secs would be cake.

 

Not really, both are high pressure supercharged engines that, from the factory, share the same exhaust manifolds as their normally aspirated versions. Sure you can't expect the same amount of HP gain but there most definitely should be something there to gain. Problem is we don't have the room those sedans have to build a quality header with a nice merge style collector.

I recall a member (AMGrasol?) built some long tubes for his SLK and he did that in the same fashion as the old Ford guys when they stuffed big blocks into the mustangs by routing the pipes towards the front and then back to the collector on some of the primaries. I don't remember him ever data-logging for a tune either so I feel that area is still largely uptapped for now.

 

^^^ red shirt dude got pwned!

 

O.k. - some more ideas:

Classic motor tuning:
Other "sharp" camshafts, Lightweight pistons and piston rods, harder valve springs, stroke the engine from 3.2 litre to 3.7 litre. Reprocess engine manifold, Polish in- and outtake, and in german we call it "litern" - that means you fill a fluid in every in- and outtake and process it as long as every of them has the same volume.

Make shure that the engine get's cold air.

Dyno the car and make an individual motor management software. (That does mean to develop an individual one for you engine - not to install a new "stock" chip tuning software from a tuner.)

Options for a small wallet:
Chip tuning will bring about 360 HP.
A pulley will bring approx 8% more power.
I agree that a water/meth injection is a very good and inexpensive way. I think that will give another 15-20% of power. It also has the benefit to cool down the engine head/cylinder head.
Throw away all 4 cats (not only the 2 rear cats) and find a solution to believe the o2 sensors the cats are still in the car. That will give you about 15-20 HP.

So we will end with about 420 to 450 HP and approx 500 to 510 NM.

500NM means that you have to care about your tranny.
Especially if you have an LSD and slicks installed.

And - as said before: Make the car as lightweight as possible.

 

Instead of all the cost of swapping out for a V8, what's the chance
that over boring the cylinders and dropping in larger pistons might do
the trick? Would certainly increase the displacement.

Coyote

 

There's also the option to take parts from the M 112 E37: 3,7 L (3724 cm³) which is based on the same V6 engine block.
It has the same stroke (84 mm) but a bigger cylinder bore (97 mm instead of 89,9 mm).
Because the cylinders have a sicasil coating it's not useful to overbore them.

Afaik there never was a 3.7 litre AMG, or a 3.7 litre supercharger version buildt by Mercedes Benz.
But there were some 3.7 litre tuning engines made by Brabus, Kleemann and other Mercedes tuners.

 

Where did you inject the meth? I had meth and took it off because it's still not proven that it doesn't destroy the coating on the rotors of the supercharger, it can be injected into the Y pipe but people that have done that havent seen gains from what I'm aware of so I'm still sceptical about it.

I still believe if we can find a better supercharger and intercooler system that is pretty much a direct bolt on swap for ours, but like Steve said one that has the intercooler on top, and also a supercharger far stronger then ours not only will we get gains due to the intercooler but we can run supercharger pulley with a huge crank pulley and make massive power and not have to worry about melting the supercharger. As many have said it really seems to be the bottle neck of the car.

 

I think the right system would be a water/methanol mix like that:
Snow Performance: Stage 2 Boost Cooler?
or that:
Snow Performance: Stage 3 Gasoline MPG MAX® Boost Cooler®

 

I had the first one you posted a link to...

Basically if you spray meth into the throttle body it goes throught he s/c into the intercooler and through the manifolds, essentially cooling the intake air that the supercharger is forcing through...now as for the octane boost most assume they get from the meth I dont think it happens, by the time it goes through the s/c, through the core of the intercooler theres not much left.

I think the objective of the water/meth is to cool down the intake air going to the manifolds, now what has me confused is this.

People that have sprayed into the Y Pipe seem to get no gains, but yet logically it's the best place to spray because it bypasses the s/c and the intercooler and goes straight into the manifolds, one would assume that would give the engine the coolest air, but yet people that spray through the supercharger seem to get better results, it doesnt make sense to me by the time the cold charge from water/meth gets to the manifolds its no where near as cool as it if you were to spray into the Y Pipe...hrmmm

 

I've been reading up on water/meth injection and the best place to spray seems to be before the supercharger on our setup. Spraying through the supercharger seals the clearance between the rotors and housing resulting in higher boost. The real gains would from a tune to take advantage of the higher knock resistance and cooler intake charge. I may eventually try it myself.

Les

 

Problem is Les if you get a tune to incorporate the meth kit and the kit fails I'd assume some major damage will occur to the engine if its being raced and the meth stops working

 

this might give you another idea as to were to locate the meth nozzle

DIY Meth Kit Install on a E55 PICS Included

 

I haven't heard of a kit failure but I'll search to see what's to be found. I'd set the controller to spray at a preset boost level. I understand the nozzles start at 3 gallons an hour. If you use the windshield washer tank you will have a warning light for low level go off on the dash. So just stay out of high boost when it's low.

Les

 

Great write up, but as usual no results