i think its a given that meth inc. octane and improves cooling this write was directed more to the location of the nozzle. most use the y pipe were the iat sensor is located and as the writeup states the nozzle needs to be farther away

 

Krazy, I was commenting on your statement that there was no way to run 11's without drag radials on the XF. I was simply pointing out that a car with equal or better torque can do it, that's all.
No need to "school" me about the Road Runner. I had a 69 Hemi Super Bee, and even with L-60-15 biased ply tires it still wouldn't hook up. Where as I've seen more than a couple "built" AMX's flirt with the 11's on street tires. That's why I think it's possible in a SRT.
We can continue this conversation at the Dragon.

 

Keep in mind the teflon coating on the blades in supercharger will not last long if your putting anything not gaseous through it.

Will putting anything liquid through it stop the supercharger from working? No, but it will strip the teflon coating off over time and once that happens it reduces the effiency of the supercharger.

As far as cams. The shrick cams were ment to improve N/A setups not boosted applications. My suggestion would be to call a few cam manufacturers and give them the specifics of our stock cams inform them your pushing XX psi through 3.2 liters with a 1.6L twin screw setup and see if they can make any improvements on the cams.


*edited* god i need to proof check my grammar and spelling better!

 

Did anybody ask Snowperformance how to install their kit on a M112 32K best?
They have forum where you can ask questions:
Snow Performance: Forums

Found this installations on different SLK 230 on the european Snowperformance website:
Mercedes Benz Galerie - Snow Performance Boost Cooler Wassereinspritzung - TTNET - Snow Performance Europe

 

As far as I'm concerned if anyone is going down the meth path it must be sprayed after the supercharger, the thread steve gave us with the E55 looks perfect just before the IAT...whether it provides any gains? I personally cant see it but i'd love to be proven wrong.

 

If you spray after the IAT sensor, won't the IAT sensor still register hot temps to the ECU, which in turn will pull timing?....

I have yet to see anyone on this forum see/document any real gains with a meth/alky/water kit..

IMO to overcome the wall, one will need to, as previously stated, go into the engine block and build a totally race engine (piston, cams, heads, etc...) and then to take advantage of this race engine, one must crack the Bosch ECU.

MB makes their engines to last, not to be first on race day. Thus they de-rate and protect them for their customers and for their reputation.

Their cars were never marketed for the likes of us...

 

After doing some research i think the best solution for a water/methanol injection will be a 2 nozzle solution. 1 nozzle positoned after supercharger/before intercooler to cool down air temp and 1 nozzle before throttle valve.

I agree with Brian Brave that MB engines are made to last long. If you want a race engine you have to rebuild them with race parts (which are rare, because there's in common no race intention from the drivers point of view).

 

Old technology. Used in the GM1 system on mercedes Benz 600 engines used in the ME109 fighter of the Luftwaffe. Alcohol, water and Nitrous. 1943. gary

 

It really hurts me to hear about the limitations on this car reported by generally guys that take their cars to that infamous 1320' strip of asphalt.
When you concider what the car was actually designed as it is a road couse car. The possibilities for the SRT in that aspect are near endless. I to am at the possible end of engine performance enhancement but now have attacted the road issues and there is great joy in driving a car rather than pointing it in a streight line and holding on. (Just kidding I know there is more to it, so don't jump me)
The costs however go up quickly when building for the road but I know there is a whole world still to be explored.
Mike

 

??? I would think that any engine/drivetrain performance gains would also benefit the Crossfire on the road course ???

 

Brian, coming from you I am shocked you would make this statement.
My horsepower compares to a GT-3 Porsche but why will it run circles around the Crossfire SRT????
Confused??? You shouldn't be.
I am still trying to figure out how to put a GOOD steering system in the Car.
Come on with your knowledge of cars you can't seriously not see the point I TRIED to bring accross in my post.
My car certainly isn't hurting in the horsepower department.
Mike

 

In reality the power limitations are set by how much one is willing to spend ..... or experiment. As far as road course abilities go, the Crossfire is impressive. I don't have experience in setting up a suspension so I've messed some things up along the way but my car has won lots of respect. Let's just say the cars abilities were far superior to mine when I started.

What I still need: LSD, bigger roll bar, harness bar, 5 point harness, racing seats and more power to track down those GTR's.

Les

 

My response was more towards the first line in your post:

"It really hurts me to hear about the limitations on this car reported by generally guys that take their cars to that infamous 1320' strip of asphalt."

My statement is simple - Those that seek out (and find) performance gains for the "infamous 1320' strip of asphalt" will benefit us all.

 

Has anybody thought about making a street rod out of the Crossfire using a Mopar Engine and drive train or is that to expensive and complicated because of the electronics???

 

Trust me, some of us are thinkin about it. Ive always been one to modify anything that moves. And when my pops was like. "this thing would be awesome with the hemi in it, and a supercharger".... the gears got turning agian

Just saw a complete 6.1 with tranny and "ALL" the wiring harnesses to get it to run, shift.. everything. Even came with the rear wheel speed sensors, hubs, steering colum, and keys. for around $6800.

If i deciede to bite the bullet, it would be a spring/summer project next year, but i would not dare touch my srt-6. Ill be on the lookout for a basic roadster to do this to. just slap on a supercharger to it, and im all set. 550+hp .. plus a LSD, and some blue tops for the tranny.

Wiring would be a bit tricky, but it wouldnt scare me all that much. Really my only concern on the crossfire side of the electronics is keeping the airbags working, and possibly the ABS, depending on how similar the 2 systems are. Taping in the gauges, and fabbing in the original LX key would be my 2 areas of importance, to keep the whole system looking as close to stock, and working like stock.


Anything is possible if you dont rush the project, take your time, have the right resources, and dont take any shortcuts.

 

wow.....and I just took a ride in Taz's car this morning and after reading through all this, it is OK to dream. But, I will be first to tell you that car is just plain crazy...looks factory, nice sleeper car for sure...50 mph kick down, without touching the button, and we were sideways...I don't care what any of you want to dream, this car is a dream come true for Taz, that is for sure...as for meth, I have studied it, talked to 4 different manufacturers, and have decided on a kit. Not sure where I will tap, but I won't tap where the one illustration on the E55 showed you...he will lean those back cylinders...I will probably tap the manis Y pipes just before the Y itself...put a bung in there...teflon coating, whether gases does it or just plain old wear and tear...it will eventually come off with enough work...and drag racing is work, and heat, and punishment...I don't care what car or what motor you want to build, they all have limits, whether HP, longevity, or $$$$$$...there are limits...and, I will get into the 11's on street tires. I tried drag radials, and my best 60' was still with the sticky F1 G3 Goodyears...I just need 3 gear to hold, which means not leaning out...and the meth, if done right should trick the car into not doing just that, and a little octane boost won't hurt either. Rudy, has a shift kit in Taz's car, he is working on perfecting, and I liked what he has done...it might shave a 1/10 here or there, but it seems when you get the HP up on our cars, the tranny reaches it's torque limit and shifts better....I need the LSD to firm up the launches without worrying about leaving pieces on the track...finally, I too was looking at a hemi build...but, after seeing Taz's car...that is just plain nuts...it looks as if it was delivered from the factory, and the sound, and raw torque that car has, well, you just have to be there...happy modding all...
there was one other point...although not a fan...photoman had great results with the meth kit he used....he did a great job with the install and put her well into the 11's...

 

I think the next big thing for performance is long tube headers. I have heard of an extra 40hp with them on a 55K engine. I think you can only go so far until you have to deal with the fact that the exhaust manifolds are a great big cork in the system. I have found someone to make them. First set would cost more at about $2,200 and then go down with more orders. Shorties are worthless. Long tube headers with high flow cats and 2.5 - 3.0 inch exhaust would go a long way. On the 55K engines the gains from just the headers were much greater on modded engines than stock 55K engines which proves that the exhaust is holding you back.

I love the 3.7 idea but you have to be careful with cams on a s/c engine. you need to keep overlap lower on a boosted engine. I can't remember the name at the moment but on of California's oldest cam amufacturers will re-gring your cams for a very reasonable cost. For a V8 the SLR cams can be used in the 113 V8

 

Unless I have missed it, i don't think any of the recent V-8 conversions have been to the track yet have they? I would be interested in seeing what kind of times these are getting.

 

Taz, will be there once the rear end is beefed up a bit....but, I can tell you this....it will be quick...I haven't felt that since my D Gas big block Camaro of long ago...lol

 

I just went out and did four 0-60 runs with a stop watch. The first run was the slowest as I went up in smoke at 5.1 Next run was a little better at 4.8 These runs were with the trans in the S position. I then tried W and got less wheel spin and a 4.7. I then tried something that was cheating just to see what would happen. I left the trans in W and I slightly hesitated after moving the foot from the brake to the gas pedal. this allowed a very slight roll. I started the stop watch right when I mashed the gas and got a 4.4 While this isn't a true ZERO to 60 it is probaly the technique I will use if challenged at a light.

I don't think these times are too bad for a normally asspirated engine that cost 80% less than the 55K's that were on the market when I bought my engine. This is with 5.0L V8, 265 40 18 Yokohama Advan S4's, The n/a Crossfire lower first gear and lower 3.27 final drive and 3/4 tank of fuel. I will try again just before she is on empty.