My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Originally Posted by JimmySkullz
Yea mine shifts perfect, no lag. I would like to eliminate the battery, thats what I was unsure about. I didnt know exactly what was the right way to go about it.(using the horn 12v line) That was my original plan but I didnt want to experement and damage anything.
it would help if you knew the voltage of the bat in the remote (and the current it uses)
Chris
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Originally Posted by nhmercracer
Latemodel,
A parts list would be a big help. Could you post one up? Some of the resistor values are hard to read.
What would happen if both switches were accidentally pressed at the same time?
A parts list would be a big help. Could you post one up? Some of the resistor values are hard to read.
What would happen if both switches were accidentally pressed at the same time?
actually, pressing the "up" or "up" and "down" (simultaneously) toggles the shift up switch in the shifter. I thought this made sense when I laid it out, but it is not impossible to change (to both buttons pressed does nothing). this would require changing the values of R9 and R10.
incidentally, the horn button always takes priority (and will sound the horn without shifting regardless of paddle switch state)
It looks like I will end up building some more of these (i have been asked to build a few as you might imagine). however, you are welcome to build your own
here is the list of resistors you were asking about.
R1 1.21 K ohm 1/4 watt
R2 3.65 K 1/4 watt
R3 1.82 k 1/4 watt
R4 100 k all the rest can be 1/8 or 1/4 watt
R5 100 k
R6 100 k
R7 3.92 K
R8 3.92 K
R9 5.11 k
R10 2 K
R11 1.5 k
Chris
EDIT ... I just noticed that the schematic I posted does not have the resistor that sets the bias for the Horn relay driver (MPSA56) I just added it to the schematic and the parts list (R11)
Also, for clarity sake, I just added the clockspring's location to the drawing as well
Last edited by latemodel21; 08-17-2011 at 11:09 AM.
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Originally Posted by latemodel21
It looks like I will end up building some more of these (i have been asked to build a few as you might imagine). however, you are welcome to build your own
Chris
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Age: 39
Posts: 6,348
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth, Sol, Milkyway
Age: 55
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
11 Posts
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
latemodel21,
You gave the resistor list, which is great. What IC parts did you use?
I see "MPS A56", "VPO550"(2), U2 is a "LM339", U4 is a "4023" and U5 is a "4001". Are these the actual part numbers? I'm just not familiar with IC numbers.
Last, but not least, the capacitor values on the left of the drawing are not clear. Are they all 10 micro farad? (C1, C2 & C4). C1 is legible, C2 & C4 are not. C3 is 100 micro farad.
Just want to clarify these things before I run out and try to get all the parts.
Thanks in advance!
You gave the resistor list, which is great. What IC parts did you use?
I see "MPS A56", "VPO550"(2), U2 is a "LM339", U4 is a "4023" and U5 is a "4001". Are these the actual part numbers? I'm just not familiar with IC numbers.
Last, but not least, the capacitor values on the left of the drawing are not clear. Are they all 10 micro farad? (C1, C2 & C4). C1 is legible, C2 & C4 are not. C3 is 100 micro farad.
Just want to clarify these things before I run out and try to get all the parts.
Thanks in advance!
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Originally Posted by MMZ_TimeLord
latemodel21,
You gave the resistor list, which is great. What IC parts did you use?
I see "MPS A56", "VPO550"(2), U2 is a "LM339", U4 is a "4023" and U5 is a "4001". Are these the actual part numbers? I'm just not familiar with IC numbers.
Last, but not least, the capacitor values on the left of the drawing are not clear. Are they all 10 micro farad? (C1, C2 & C4). C1 is legible, C2 & C4 are not. C3 is 100 micro farad.
Just want to clarify these things before I run out and try to get all the parts.
Thanks in advance!
You gave the resistor list, which is great. What IC parts did you use?
I see "MPS A56", "VPO550"(2), U2 is a "LM339", U4 is a "4023" and U5 is a "4001". Are these the actual part numbers? I'm just not familiar with IC numbers.
Last, but not least, the capacitor values on the left of the drawing are not clear. Are they all 10 micro farad? (C1, C2 & C4). C1 is legible, C2 & C4 are not. C3 is 100 micro farad.
Just want to clarify these things before I run out and try to get all the parts.
Thanks in advance!
Chris
correct, C1 is a 10uf (electrolytic)
C2,C3, and C4 are 100 nano-farad (0.1 uf)
CD4001 and CD4023 are the other numbers you are looking for.
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Originally Posted by SRT6_Roadster
Chris-
Add me to the list of those interested. Can you either post the details or shoot me a PM?
Add me to the list of those interested. Can you either post the details or shoot me a PM?
It seems there is enough interest for me to build some.
I quick estimate of my time and materials makes me think I can build some more of my modules for $95 each plus shipping (until my current stock of enclosures and blank pcb's runs out, then it will go up some I expect) .... this would be for the module (see attached photo) and 6" or so of wires exiting it and 2 resistors that are used to tie the paddle switches to the horn line (in the steering wheel).
However, I would really like to ship a more complete solution that includes a convenient connectorized interface for inside of the steering wheel as this is a touchy area (in terms of interfacing the paddles to the horn line and maintaining the ability to gracefully remove the wheel)
ALSO, a more complete solution would include a connector on my module that plugs into an included extension harness. This extension harness could have an inline fuse and have it's wires marked for connections. probably need to get $120 (pending connector sourcing) for this.
....adding the wires to the floor shifter and mounting the switches in the wheel is not included of course.
A local enthusiast with a 2002 E55 AMG has convinced me (money talks) to do this integration on his car, so I will hopefully get some good pictures of installing the wires in the floor shifter
I am thinking that the cleanest place to mount this unit in a crossfire (and slk) is near the audio power amp (under the carpet, padding and plate in the passenger foot well). This make it easy to run a few wires to the ecu/K40 housing (where the horn wire and +12v would be accessed) and is close enough to the shifter . The module is approx 2" x 2.75" x 0.7" . I would welcome any input from crossfire owners who have other ideas as to where this module would best fit in their opinion.
Chris
P.S. after the first run when I've gotten a more accurate idea of the build time, the price will likely be adjusted up
Last edited by latemodel21; 08-18-2011 at 11:09 AM.
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Mateo, CA, USA, Earth, Sol, Milkyway
Age: 55
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
11 Posts
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
For that size of a module, there is plenty of room behind where the stereo and toggle switches are located unless you've already filled it up with a different head unit and extra harness wires.
Pricing sounds about right to me. I've built quite a few "projects" in my day and they are quite labor intensive.
Excellent project and results... I look forward to the pictures of the E55.
Pricing sounds about right to me. I've built quite a few "projects" in my day and they are quite labor intensive.
Excellent project and results... I look forward to the pictures of the E55.
Re: My New Custom Wheel with Paddle shift
Originally Posted by MMZ_TimeLord
For that size of a module, there is plenty of room behind where the stereo and toggle switches are located unless you've already filled it up with a different head unit and extra harness wires.
Pricing sounds about right to me. I've built quite a few "projects" in my day and they are quite labor intensive.
Excellent project and results... I look forward to the pictures of the E55.
Pricing sounds about right to me. I've built quite a few "projects" in my day and they are quite labor intensive.
Excellent project and results... I look forward to the pictures of the E55.
the "under audio amp" solution appeals to me because you need to open up that area anyway to run wires up to the ecu/k40 enclosure (where the horn wire is easiest to find). and you need not remove the radio and/or switch cover to access it. But if there is a general consensus that the "behind radio" location is better, I will pick the wire lengths accordingly,
thanks,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 08-18-2011 at 12:24 PM.