No, not yet. I have been busy trying to get garage done so I can move the cars in. Am pretty certain that it is in the APPS unit (pedal sensor), or mine might have a Sprint booster acting up. Not sure if it has one, but pedal seems touchy under normal conditions. Mine would act up after going full throttle and stay that way till next key cycle.

 

After years of dealing with this issue with no clear direction to follow, the car finally lit the CE light and kept a code!!! YES!!! P0715 speed sensor, replaced the electrical plate in the trans with the new speed sensor and now it appears the issue is gone...fingers crossed.

 

Yep that transmission plate causes a lot of problems. Luckily mine was still under warranty.Got a transmission filter and fluid change while they were at it. No issues since

 

I have had the pedal die on me, no response. I throw it in neutral and switch the key back and forth and the pedal comes back to life. I am driving the N/A and I do have a sprint booster that I rarely turn on. I remember on of the assembly clips cracking when I installed the sprint booster so I wonder if the booster, a questionable install, or a damaged pedal assembly plug insert, or a combination of all three are a common denominator.

 

Try some dielectric grease on the throttle relay clip. Mine would have no boost, then warm, and boost-power!

 

Take the SprintBooster out and try it, seems logical if the questionable part comes out as well.

 

How do you "turn on" a sprint booster?

(No seriously, am I missing something here - are they not always online?)

 

I looked into a sprint booster a year ago, and the version I had researched had three settings. Off, moderate, and aggresive. Seems like the Eurochargeds tune helps with throttle response, so I passed on the $200+ mod.

 

Ok, so i read somewhere that you can take the pedal off with just a nut and a washer. I have been swearing, sweating and bleeding over this washer now for about an hour. This was suppose to be a short cut for install and removal? What magic forces are required to get this washer out of this deepass hole. I have tried 3 different kinds of magnets and a handful of dentist utensils in hopes to save a few precious moments.

Does anyone have a link to the old fashoined install? I have looked around for that for about 30 min also. I'm having one of those days and some good help would be greatly appreciated.

 

This might have some helpful pics and directions, regarding pedal removal.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...6-post590.html

 

Sprint Booster Removed, however, I did leave a stage 1 flash in the car from the sprint booster when I took it out. No issues today, but I really have to drive for a while to get it to act up 30-40 of Hot Traffic.

 

Same scenario except one variation . . . their is no Sprint Booster on my NA .

I had this occur on my stock N/A with the standard 68mm Thottle Body and MAF Housing set up , for the first time last Fall .It happen only one time and it was after one fast demand of power with the pedal to the floor, that included the actuation of the switch at the end of the gas pedal travel .

Observations : an instant loss of power that should corespond to pedal position , like a dead spot and include , no throttle response to pedal input in the first half of pedal travel, then power would progressively come on .Even with the pedal to the floor ,the car still accelerate progressively like the throttle body is not completely fully open . No code generated neither .

I had this occur again recently . . . but now my N/A has the 74mm Throttle Body and 74mm MAF Housing with original MAF sensor in it . I was testing the added power and engine response of this new set up , on a desert contry road , the new to me , 74mm set up that I had done about 300 Kilometers before ,but ,it happen this time with one variant ,since it was after MANY fast demand of power with the pedal to the floor, that included the actuation of the switch at the end of the gas pedal travel . .The observations where the same has last Fall except for the fact of the rate of accelaration was little bit faster . . . so it is not evidently related to the TB

Last Fall ,an simple engine shut off and restart got rid of the problem .This time I used an Throttle reset but since it include an engine shut down ,it is hard to say if the throttle reset was necessary .No code generated or pulled out from the car computer with my OBD2 code reader " Launch CReader VI + " .

Is might be related to . . . the switch behind the gas pedal , the sensor of the pedal itself ,anything between gas pedal and TB ,wire ,electronical , informatic , an too fast pedal action or a combinaison of some of these factors. At least we do not get stuck on the side of the road but at the moment it happen it could have an dangerous end if it happen while passing another road user on a busy two way road .

Daniel

 

I've had the Ltd. for three years with no problems. I've now had the SRT-6 three months, and it has cutting-out twice while stopped at a light. I don't believe I restarted the engine the first time, but just as the light changed (a minute and half wait) it began to run normally.

The second time was at a longer light stop for the Metro Railcar to pass by. Eventually I turned off the engine and restarted, once again when 'all clear' it ran perfectly. A bit weird in that the two cutting out's were only a quarter mile apart on the same street.

What I've garnered from reading the previous comments is:

Put dielectric grease on the TB relay clip (a hint where it is located?)

Really need help here: install a new APPS and (??) its wires to the PCM (whatever/wherever that might be).

Replace the electrical plate IN (??) the transmission with a new speed sensor.

[Could someone tell me how they 'know' it is either an APPS problem or a trans speed sensor?]

Are there any tests for these - or is it just easier to replace then bother testing?

After all is completed (correctly), it shouldn't cut out any more?

 

Never heard of an "APPS", but what you are describing is a faulty CPS ( Crankshaft Position Sensor) plug connection, or the sensor itself. Had the same issue with my NA .
While driving along at 55, sudden loss of power, then resumes normally. While idling, stumbles, then recovers.
Replaced my CPS with a genuine Bosch, cleaned the connector harness with contact cleaner real good, and hasn't happened since.

I SERIOUSLY doubt the connector plate in the transmission has anything to do with it.

I think the "TB relay clip" you are referring to is the connector plug to the throttle body.
On the SRT6, the throttle body sits at the "Y" pipe. You can easily see the connector.

 

alaxfire, thanks for this information. My comments were taken from the various posts here. What little I know about it, I've always assumed the crankshaft position sensor strictly dealt with the engine. Yes, of course the accelerator 'gives information to the engine' but I'd assume the problem is in the accelerator itself. That is why the APPS (accelerator pedal position sensor) mostly came up.

I checked out hundred's list of fixes and while there was a camshaft position sensor fix, I didn't see anything about a crankshaft position sensor.

Rather than start buying sensors would it make sense to do the throttle reset drill, even though the car is fine (for now)? No warning lights have come on when it was cutting out (though failed to check closely when it was happening).

 

There is a PDF on the CPS, it just shows how to replace it on the NA, the SRT requires hoses to be moved to get to it. It is in Engine-Electrial.

 

I just experienced this problem too. I have had the car for a couple of months and the tires needed replaced so I thought I'd do a couple a burnouts to see what the car could do. After this the car didn't even want to go. I'd push the pedal to the floor and the car would just creep on the line. I got the car home, checked the forum and did the TB reset mentioned in this thread and it seems to have worked. My question is why after some hard acceleration does the car do this?