Rough Idle and Limp Power
good call man. find someone that needs money that has knowledge in fixing cars. My buddy works on my car and I would rather pay him then the dealership and its a lot cheaper lol
Again start with that CPS.
Again start with that CPS.
Alright, took the car to a different dealership to get a second opinion from them. I went ahead and had them do a complete cleaning of the fuel system, $200 well-spent. I ordered the Bosch original CPS and installed just a few moments ago. The car has run perfectly since the last incident. All I can do now is wait and hold my breath every time I start the car.
Thanks for the support and I will keep you all posted. Thanks!
Thanks for the support and I will keep you all posted. Thanks!
Alright, took the car to a different dealership to get a second opinion from them. I went ahead and had them do a complete cleaning of the fuel system, $200 well-spent. I ordered the Bosch original CPS and installed just a few moments ago. The car has run perfectly since the last incident. All I can do now is wait and hold my breath every time I start the car.
Thanks for the support and I will keep you all posted. Thanks!
Thanks for the support and I will keep you all posted. Thanks!
I think the most frustrating part of reading this entire thread is that everyone has given you the same advice and you've just now replaced the CPS. on top of it all we've had an open garage and 3 capable former and current SRT/AMG owners in your neighborhood to help you do any of this service work.
If you have not replaced the plugs it wouldn't be a bad idea to do so. Service manual recommends that 3 years ago. If you have performed your tranny maintenance it's also recommended 3 years ago. If and when you let the dealer do it make sure they replace the transition fluid filter and not just swap out your fluid. Going back to the fuel system. Every two years it's recommended to replace your fuel filter. This $50 part from Rob will clean your fuel system a lot better and a lot cheaper than the $200 bottle of crap the dealer put in. And please tell me you didn't go back to Rocky Williams Chrysler Jeep.
Brandon I wish you all the luck in the world, but I'll never understand why someone comes to a forum and asks a question, gets multiple responses from very smart vetted members and simply ignores them until the car actually breaks down.
Thank you Quick Trip gas..
It's super easy, especially since the filter and pump are outside the gas tank.
Did you finally get it right the third try ?
Hah.. virtually speaking I was turning 0-60 in 4 seconds on the second time..
Hey Nick, thanks for the response. Long time no see!
Anyway, if you read back in the thread, I actually replaced the CPS back at the beginning of December when I was experiencing the problem. Unsure whether that solved the problem, all I could do from there was just wait. because the problem had only occurred intermittently. So I waited, and the car broke down on me again, post #40. From there, I ordered the OEM Bosch CPS and between work, midterms and personal matters, was just able to install it.
As far as being evidently taken advantage of at the dealership, with this being my first car and the only dealerships worth two craps being an inconvenient 30min. to an hour away, I am to the point where I just want the car fixed and am tired of messing with it. This is in large part because I (as you know) spend the weeks and most weekends in Nashville where I have no access to a garage, tools, and have a combination of class and work everyday. Plus, I don't have a second car to hop in if something is wrong with the Crossfire. I don't have the experience with cars many forum-members do, hence this thread. That's what it's for right?
Apart from explaining myself, the fuel filter was replaced a couple of oil-changes ago and the plugs are the next thing on the list. Your reply is a bit misguided--hardly have I ignored the responses. But I've been advised by more than just forum members that this is a process of elimination, so that's what I'm doing.
I hope all is well and to see ya soon.
Anyway, if you read back in the thread, I actually replaced the CPS back at the beginning of December when I was experiencing the problem. Unsure whether that solved the problem, all I could do from there was just wait. because the problem had only occurred intermittently. So I waited, and the car broke down on me again, post #40. From there, I ordered the OEM Bosch CPS and between work, midterms and personal matters, was just able to install it.
As far as being evidently taken advantage of at the dealership, with this being my first car and the only dealerships worth two craps being an inconvenient 30min. to an hour away, I am to the point where I just want the car fixed and am tired of messing with it. This is in large part because I (as you know) spend the weeks and most weekends in Nashville where I have no access to a garage, tools, and have a combination of class and work everyday. Plus, I don't have a second car to hop in if something is wrong with the Crossfire. I don't have the experience with cars many forum-members do, hence this thread. That's what it's for right?
Apart from explaining myself, the fuel filter was replaced a couple of oil-changes ago and the plugs are the next thing on the list. Your reply is a bit misguided--hardly have I ignored the responses. But I've been advised by more than just forum members that this is a process of elimination, so that's what I'm doing.
I hope all is well and to see ya soon.
I cannot see why people waste money on a fuel filter so often. The service schedule says to replace after 60,000 miles or 4 years, personally I cannot see why after four years if the mileage is low, what really can go wrong with the fuel filter just sitting there?
The spark plugs should be good for 100,000 miles they say as well, if they were meant to be changed more often then I am sure they would say so, but dealers would have you change the plugs every service when they get their hands on the car.
$$$$$$$
The spark plugs should be good for 100,000 miles they say as well, if they were meant to be changed more often then I am sure they would say so, but dealers would have you change the plugs every service when they get their hands on the car.
$$$$$$$
My XF Coupe started having the this problem last week. The typical CPS symptoms, engine dies and starts. Replaced CPS with Napa/Bosh part a couple of days ago and the cars doesn't die now but it still runs rough. However It did die once on hard acceleration after 4.5K RPM but started right away when I pulled over. Also when the engine hit 4500 RMP the engine misfires every time. The car is till not running right.
Checked the RCM - upon inspection the board looks very good. I can tell the solder joint were previously beefed up with no questionable fractures under the magnified glass.
Next on the list: spark plugs and fuel filter then TB check.
BTW... My check engine light came on again and popped the same P0335 code check CPS. Is it possible I installed a bad part from BOSH? I hope not. I just installed it a few days ago.
Checked the RCM - upon inspection the board looks very good. I can tell the solder joint were previously beefed up with no questionable fractures under the magnified glass.
Next on the list: spark plugs and fuel filter then TB check.
BTW... My check engine light came on again and popped the same P0335 code check CPS. Is it possible I installed a bad part from BOSH? I hope not. I just installed it a few days ago.
Urs is doing the exact same thing mine did. R u sure it was a actual bosch part? I got mine from Napa too and it sucked. My engine was dying everytime i accelerated hard.
I ordered mine through amazon. Installed it and everything is good. I'll see if i can get the link that i ordered mine it was like $40 bucks.
I ordered mine through amazon. Installed it and everything is good. I'll see if i can get the link that i ordered mine it was like $40 bucks.
My XF Coupe started having the this problem last week. The typical CPS symptoms, engine dies and starts. Replaced CPS with Napa/Bosh part a couple of days ago and the cars doesn't die now but it still runs rough. However It did die once on hard acceleration after 4.5K RPM but started right away when I pulled over. Also when the engine hit 4500 RMP the engine misfires every time. The car is till not running right.
Checked the RCM - upon inspection the board looks very good. I can tell the solder joint were previously beefed up with no questionable fractures under the magnified glass.
Next on the list: spark plugs and fuel filter then TB check.
BTW... My check engine light came on again and popped the same P0335 code check CPS. Is it possible I installed a bad part from BOSH? I hope not. I just installed it a few days ago.
Checked the RCM - upon inspection the board looks very good. I can tell the solder joint were previously beefed up with no questionable fractures under the magnified glass.
Next on the list: spark plugs and fuel filter then TB check.
BTW... My check engine light came on again and popped the same P0335 code check CPS. Is it possible I installed a bad part from BOSH? I hope not. I just installed it a few days ago.
here u go Rico worth a shot for $40 which im sure its the cause.
Just got easy on the throttle until u can get it installed.
Just got easy on the throttle until u can get it installed.
here u go Rico worth a shot for $40 which im sure its the cause.
Just got easy on the throttle until u can get it installed.
Just got easy on the throttle until u can get it installed.
Well I found the problem. One badly damaged spark plug. The picture shows major arcing damage on the terminal connector. The question is how and why that happened.
- 114K miles - Second owner. 42k mile from me.
- Likely water damage from power washing.
- loose spark plug wire
All three factors played a role on this plug.
Car runs like a champ now. Maga power increase and no more cutting out or misfire after 4500 RPM. Took it to Red line and she kept pulling hard.
Conclusion:
I had two major issues going on at once.
Bad CPS and bad spark plug.
Solution:
Fantastic forum help.
Thanks folks!
- 114K miles - Second owner. 42k mile from me.
- Likely water damage from power washing.
- loose spark plug wire
All three factors played a role on this plug.
Car runs like a champ now. Maga power increase and no more cutting out or misfire after 4500 RPM. Took it to Red line and she kept pulling hard.
Conclusion:
I had two major issues going on at once.
Bad CPS and bad spark plug.
Solution:
Fantastic forum help.
Thanks folks!
My dad took the car out yesterday to run some errands. About 15 minutes after he left, I got a call from him that the dreaded rough idle/limp power thing was happening again. Thankfully, he was able to slowly scoot to the local Chrysler dealership--I wanted to be sure and get the codes read while the symptom was present--I am so sick of the "we can't get the problem to recreate" bullshit.
Anyway, the service department was more than accommodating and were able to get the car right in to check. The service advisor told me that as soon as they plugged the computer in, the car died. They restarted it and it ran smoothly. "Great," I thought, but they were able to get readings. The car churned three codes:
P0410 -- Secondary Air Injection
P0562 -- Battery Volts Low
P0108 -- Map Sensor
Finally some clue as to what is actually going on! The dealer suggested first replacing the RCM, a cool $630 parts & labor. No thanks. I can do it myself for ~$200 and ten minutes out of my life. They also recommended the MAP sensor if the RCM does not correct the issue. Please give me your thoughts. I am going to move forward with one of these "fixes," but because of my limited knowledge of cars, I want to make sure my approach is logical. Thanks so much for all the help thus far.
Anyway, the service department was more than accommodating and were able to get the car right in to check. The service advisor told me that as soon as they plugged the computer in, the car died. They restarted it and it ran smoothly. "Great," I thought, but they were able to get readings. The car churned three codes:
P0410 -- Secondary Air Injection
P0562 -- Battery Volts Low
P0108 -- Map Sensor
Finally some clue as to what is actually going on! The dealer suggested first replacing the RCM, a cool $630 parts & labor. No thanks. I can do it myself for ~$200 and ten minutes out of my life. They also recommended the MAP sensor if the RCM does not correct the issue. Please give me your thoughts. I am going to move forward with one of these "fixes," but because of my limited knowledge of cars, I want to make sure my approach is logical. Thanks so much for all the help thus far.
I forgot to add that they said that a faulty RCM could be giving the code on the MAP Sensor. Sound right? Again, thanks for your thoughts.
My dad took the car out yesterday to run some errands. About 15 minutes after he left, I got a call from him that the dreaded rough idle/limp power thing was happening again. Thankfully, he was able to slowly scoot to the local Chrysler dealership--I wanted to be sure and get the codes read while the symptom was present--I am so sick of the "we can't get the problem to recreate" bullshit.
Anyway, the service department was more than accommodating and were able to get the car right in to check. The service advisor told me that as soon as they plugged the computer in, the car died. They restarted it and it ran smoothly. "Great," I thought, but they were able to get readings. The car churned three codes:
P0410 -- Secondary Air Injection
P0562 -- Battery Volts Low
P0108 -- Map Sensor
Finally some clue as to what is actually going on! The dealer suggested first replacing the RCM, a cool $630 parts & labor. No thanks. I can do it myself for ~$200 and ten minutes out of my life. They also recommended the MAP sensor if the RCM does not correct the issue. Please give me your thoughts. I am going to move forward with one of these "fixes," but because of my limited knowledge of cars, I want to make sure my approach is logical. Thanks so much for all the help thus far.
Anyway, the service department was more than accommodating and were able to get the car right in to check. The service advisor told me that as soon as they plugged the computer in, the car died. They restarted it and it ran smoothly. "Great," I thought, but they were able to get readings. The car churned three codes:
P0410 -- Secondary Air Injection
P0562 -- Battery Volts Low
P0108 -- Map Sensor
Finally some clue as to what is actually going on! The dealer suggested first replacing the RCM, a cool $630 parts & labor. No thanks. I can do it myself for ~$200 and ten minutes out of my life. They also recommended the MAP sensor if the RCM does not correct the issue. Please give me your thoughts. I am going to move forward with one of these "fixes," but because of my limited knowledge of cars, I want to make sure my approach is logical. Thanks so much for all the help thus far.
Don't know the cost of a MAP sensor, but I do know that too is a 5 min job to replace.
NOTE: the 2 screws that mount it to the plastic intake are really weird 5 point Torx security screws, easiest to remove if you just take the plastic piece off and use some small vise grips or whatever to remove them. I replaced mine with SS hex screws, same thread and length.
WITH THE BATTERY LOW VOLTAGE CODE, THAT IS WHERE I WOULD START.
NEW BATTERY ! NEW BATTERY ! NEW BATTERY !
Last edited by ala_xfire; May 8, 2013 at 11:37 AM.
Alaxfire,
Mind showing me where you found it on eBay, or was it a one-time offer? Also, were you experiencing the same symptoms as me?
Thanks.
Mind showing me where you found it on eBay, or was it a one-time offer? Also, were you experiencing the same symptoms as me?
Thanks.


