Will see answer from jerry and the EC gang. But may use another shim then. My worries are mostly that it is not straight all around. What happen if the gap is too wide vs too narrow?

 

No sound whatsoever prior to install. And now as you can hear some grinding occur. (just turn it up to max and you will hear it ) the gap is narrow on one end, 0,2 on the other. Anyone else had this? Doubt any idler pulley issue as I have not been driving the car far with the new sc pulley. Thanks for reply

 

I have had some issues with mine sticking in the engaged position.By the way I set the gap at .30 on the install.I used about 1/2 of the shims that I bought separately. The SC Pulley will stay just touching the connection point. If I grab it I can move it back to the correct gap. I did speak to Jerry at eurocharged about this. He asked for pictures ,and commented that it sounding like something was bent in the pulley assembly. I sent the pictures ,and never heard back from him. I just hadn't had time to follow up again.

 

CJ's gap when we installed the pulley varied from full contact at one point to over .25 after rotating the pulley 180deg. With 2 eurocharged shims installed the gap was still full contact at the top and well exceeding .30 at the 180deg mark.

 

I am having the same problem as OP. I used the two original shims and torqued bolt to 20NM. My gaps were uneven after install also. After running it around the block there was nomore gap. The pulley was right up against the clutch. It would make more noise when it is cold, but less or no noise when engine is warmed up. I noticed the springs are not as strong on the EC pulley compared to stock. Been running for around 1000 miles with no problems. Maybe I should contact Eurocharged also. Hopefully we find a solution.

 

I believe its two things. first the gap is too tight between the pulley and the sc shaft.Causing sticking Second the spring is too weak for the pulley to return to its gaped position after the unit has been run hence no gap.

 

For you in the states this is simple issue of sending back parts. For ppl across the pond it's a pure hell. I will try the extra shims this weekend. If not ok I will remove it and take it with me to the states. Which is soon, so i will contact the fl ppl to take a look at your beauties! What happens if the gap is too wide?

 

Hmmm, if the gap is too wide, you may run into issues with the belt slipping off, but I have nothing to back that up, just a guess. I mean, how wide is too wide before it gets out of alignment with the other pulley's?

 

No answers from EC yet. Anyone in the US who could call them and see if they have any answers to our questions?
Is it the same for everyone who is using this sc pulley?

 

Let me start by saying I have not held a SC pulley in my hand, but I do know about machining and machined parts and how to check them after making and designing them for fifty odd years. I do have a SC pulley but I am not about to take it off and look at it. Having said that you can quit reading right now or read on, your choice. I really do not care. The experts here should know what I am about to say.

The SC pulley assembly consists of the following parts; pulley, spring, clutch plate, bearing and retainer, rivets, and drive pins.

The gap between the clutch plate and the SC face should be between 0,20 and 0,30mm or .008" and .012". I always think Americans and metric do not mix, it must be in the genes.

The back plate of the pulley has to be square to the axis of the bearings, any error there and the gap is going to be larger and smaller on the diametrically opposite sides of the clutch plate.

The spring has to riveted to the pulley and clutch plate, centrally located and with the rivets free of excessive play in the rivet holes. If the spring is out of center and the clutch plate is forced against the pins the spring will tend to tilt the clutch plate. The spring must lay flat in the relaxed position.

The clutch plate has to be located on the pulley centrally via the spring, as any offset will have it binding against the drive pins. This can only be done with accurately located and tight rivet holes in the pulley and clutch. Some error is expected but not enough to cause binding greater than the spring can overcome.

The drive pins mounted in the clutch plate should have a minimal clearance in the pulley back plate holes and the spring should not bias it in one direction or the pins will bind. The holes for the pins should be accurately located in both parts to the spring holes and bores.

When checking the 008"- 012" clearance and finding a discrepancy from one side to another, check to see if the distance between the front face of the clutch plate and the pulley plate is out by the same amount. If not it would indicate that the pulley is not square to the bearing bore. This assumes that the clutch plate is an even thickness.

Before installing the pulley check to see that the clutch plate is parallel to the back plate of the pulley, if not the spring is biasing the clutch plate, too much and the correct settings will be hard to obtain.

Assuming that the main components are machined accurately within good tolerances the problems could be caused by the riveting. If the spring is not accurately located and there is binding on the pins the set up will be impossible to do accurately. You do not want to run this when there is rubbing of the clutch plate when not engaged. It may free up after a while but the faces will no longer be flat due to wear, maybe no big deal in the long run it depends on the degree, but it will not be a 100% engagement when energized and may lead to further slippage and wear.

Shoot my theory down if you find an error, or two or .....

This thread has gone around and around with little said and some of it does not hold water.

 

You do realize that these are all new eurocharge code 3 style pulleys?

 

So?......... That's the best you can do?

The problems are in the above posts.

I have left out any names to protect the innocent.

 

The part has been in use for a very short period of time an has been a problem since initial install. In our case, the pulley has been returned to eurocharged to allow them to figure out what is incorrect.

 

I hope I have covered some points for them then.
The design is basic but the making of them by an outside contractor may be the problem, I know from past experience that the best of designs can be ruined on the shop floor. Although I have found that the shop floor can improve designs, so it cuts both ways.

Making a few prototypes is fine but the proof of the pudding is when you mass produce them.

 

So does this mean they are all faulty?Even though the shims are used, are they manufactured inaccurate? Should i disassemble mine and bring it with me? Would be great if someone from EC could clear all questions for ppl like me who is an amateur when it comes to pulleys-. Like to pull girls though-

 

I know that CJ's pulley was from Eurocharged's very first batch but I don't think anyone could answer your question until the pulley has been fully evaluated. Give them a chance, I have not been nor have I ever heard of Eurocharged letting anyone down!

 

install wrong, damaged during install, or just a bad pulley....we won't know until there are more facts on the table...save the finger pointing until every thing is checked out. I have seen a lot of pulley installs and not all are pretty....but, that didn't sound like any of the wrong installs I have witnessed. I would think you could see lose rivets or a bad plate. Even the old Code 3's with the bad plate didn't sound like that... Good Luck Fu...hope it is something simple...

 

From reading this, this is not really a DIY job then?

 

On the contrary, the install should be a piece of cake.

Reverse engineering has its problems. For instance if you measured the bore where the bearing is fitted and used that as the diameter for your copy you could make a mistake. The true bore size is obtained from the bearing manual which gives the specific sizes that the bore should be. You cannot take the size of your sample and add a thou or so and call that good enough, as you may have the largest bore size for that bearing and you will make yours all mostly bigger than it should be. You could of course end up with bores too small which would make the bearing too tight which would reduce the inside diameter where the ***** are and reduce the clearance needed for them to roll smoothly. This would cut the life of the bearing greatly and you would not know why that happened. The fit on the SC shaft would not be affected and they should all have no problem there as the SC shaft would be made to the correct size with the correct tolerance to fit the bearing correctly. This would be true as long as the bearing is the same class as the shaft was made to fit.

These parts are not a piece of cake to make and may be beyond the skills of some machine shops. The spring is quite tricky and the rivet fit should be identical to the OEM ones, that may require that there be some play on the rivets to allow for some tolerance build ups and prevent binding on the fixed pins.

I see some people are getting defensive with regard to the seller, if I had coughed up $550 or so I might be a bit pi ssed of by now and be demanding answers instead of puffing smoke. If there is a problem or a perceived problem it is best to be up front about it. Companies that did this in the past have weathered the storm and come through it with a better name. While others have done the opposite to their detriment.

 

Some forum member appear to enjoy writing long overburdened posts with no clear objective other then to stir the pot. These members will often take a negative stance toward the topic regardless of the discussion. My recommendation, take these comments with a grain of salt and enjoy what the forum has to offer.
In my experience, it is far better to offer our very few and proven upstanding aftermarket parts supplies the benefit of doubt rather then alienate them with questionable and broad possibility comments.