Today I had half a day to myself and got motivated to prepare early for my next track day. The rear tires have one track day on them and it's obvious the -1.5º camber is too much in the rear. You can still read the writing on the drivers tire. The fronts have 2 track days on them. The wear is relatively even except the outer edge which is still acceptable. (-2.4 camber) This is the unbroken camber arm. I really believed I had solved the banging but it seems I'm just going deaf. It was hitting hard and often. Damage the shock is superficial. It looks like my rotors need replacing. And last but now least, stock heat exchanger beside a 2006 E55 AMG heat exchanger. Enough for today. Tomorrow morning the car goes to the shop for another alignment.

Les

 

Always enjoy your posts. I would not think that -1.5 is overly agressive in the rear. Do you think you are getting a lot of dynamic negative camber in the back under load? I thought multi link was a lot less prone to changing under load but I am far from understanding exactly how everything actually works together back there. I wouldn't know how to go about measuring under load but might be something to look at, you could be getting way more than needed. You may be able to dial the static back without losing much grip under load and save some tire.

Also sorry to see your camber arm contact but at the same time happy that I am not crazy about the contact with mine . After installing .3 pads and the sway links mine is still not right. (although marginally better than the 1 dots I think)

I'm starting to wonder just how much the sway is doing back there. I have been tempted to let it hang, stick the camera up in there and see what it feels like but don't have a clue of the impact on the multi link. Obviously body roll is going to go up and total spring rate down but with the coil overs you may be able to make up some of the difference with spring settings. Alright pretty much just blabbing and throwing random thoughts out at this point but always interesting to see what your up to and how your pushing and learning more every race. As soon as you find the cure for the contact let me know

 

Up untill now my car has realized the most rear grip at -.8º and 1/8" toe in. After putting on Mikes adjustable links I was reevaluating the settings. Tomorrow the K-macs go in and I'm having the frame seam notched a bit more. The stock camber arms are already on but they're banging on the frame too. I'd sure like to put this problem in the past. I'm thinking when the rear suspension is free of contact I'll have to do some more testing. As far as dynamic camber changes it appears to induce more negative camber when compressed. The front is good. 0 toe and -2.4º camber works great. The more castor that's dialed in the more - camber when the wheels are turned.

Les

 

K-mac's are in and ...... not enough adjustment. SOAB! Dang it all! The full story is my lowered SRT was at over -3º with the stock camber arms and K&W's and the least camber possible was -1.2º. I hope it's good enough. I told the shop to "clearance" the sway bar. I haven't looked but I didn't hear any interference on the drive home. I'll take a picture tomorrow for me and all of my familila.

Les

 

I purchased a dip stick tool to check the transmission oil, and to give it the look and sniff test. Running the car as I do had me waking up at night wondering if the fluid was getting burnt. Good news, I've never seen cleaner and sweeter smelling transmission fluid in my life! I purchased a new filter and gasket for the transmission pan that's going into the closet until needed.

Something I've seen with my frequent tuning is the leaner you go the more power you make. My tunes have been as lean as around 14 AFR at WOT. As we speak I'm at 334 hp at 12.2 AFR which is down from my peak of 359 hp at around 13.7 AFR. I most likely didn't go BOOM because after that particular tune I started using Sunoco 100 octane. I'm back to 93 now that my AFR's are in the lower 12's but will add some 100 or 104 for track days.

 

So what kit do you have on the front to get -2.4, most we can get here with the eccentric bolts is -1.8 I believe.

 

I have the good ole Mercedes eccentric bolts in the front but I'm lowered and my offset on my 9" front rims is 30. The farther you push the wheels outwards the more negative camber you have without any other change. However, one side has a little more than the other.

Les

 

Interesting setup, Les. Always enjoy your notes.

I'm about to drop mine, buying Steve's B&G springs with MikeR's adjustable camber/sway links and the K-Mac kit... looking to do this by the 1/2-mile event (and that's only two weeks before the Dragon).

For a daily driver that occasionally sees spirited driving and HPDEs, How about the following:

Front Camber = -1.8°
Rear Camber = -.8°

Mine will be dropped 30mm front, 35mm rear.

The toe links are on the short list, but too much going on right now in this small window of time. Might convince Mrs. Claus to bring me the goodies on Christmas.

 

At stock ride height the manual has -1.22º front and -1.13º rear. For a lowered car I personally find more grip at -.8 to -1º for the rear. For mostly street driving I don't know whats best for the front. -1.8 would work fine but most likely wear the tires quicker especially with the stock toe in, which I'd stay with for street/highway driving.

Les