EUREKA!!!!!

I am going to be using

Aluminum Intake Reducer 3.5" OD to 3" OD: Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps

to connect to

Black Rubber Intake Tee 3" ID: Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps

which connects to my intake system

Intake.jpg
Coupler.jpg

connecting this (BULB AND LEGS ONLY) inside of the 3.5 to 3" aluminum reducer (closest thing to throttle body) via drilled holes and weld

CryO2 Air Intake 080110 | Purchase DEI, CryO2, Ny-Trex, Boom Mat & SPA Turbo Products | Design Engineering, Inc. - Thermal Performance Products

with the pointy end of the tear drop pointing towards the "Tee Split Intersection" to increase air flow into the throttle body...

I will eventually add

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...genic-fuel-bar

to cool the fuel (might as well get the most use out of my c02 as possible!!!

Later on I will also be connecting the "Out" port of the bulb to this to cool the heat exchanger

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...cooler-sprayer
NOTE: This component must always be the last in the CryO2 system as it vents the liquid CO2 charge.

BUT, it will be also sprayed with

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...er-sprayer-kit

so the water sprayed on the heat exchanger will be further cooled by the liquid CO2 sprayed on the water, on the heat exchanger....

But first I need to get a bigger supercooler and possibly a 62MM SC Pully.

In the end, it should look something like this (minus the second intake cooler and adding the water sprayer)

http://www.designengineering.com/sit...main-large.jpg

I think this all may just work.... Will take me 2-3 months to get everything ordered and installed but stay tuned.

Just ordered the first step,


for 1/2 the price on the Cry02 SITE!!!

There are 2 left if anyone else wants to buy one , just make sure you click the lower price at the bottom where it say's (2 New - 219.99)

 

I will be able to switch it on manually at any time, with the switch that comes in the instalation kit. It will cool the bulb to -80F. (Approx 50 degree lower intake temps but NOT IAT because those are taken after the intercooler, AFAIK)

They recommend for heavy racing to charge the bulb for 15-20 seconds every 5 minutes...

You can also get a timer, set it anywhere from .2 to 20 second spray durations.

So for freeway driving, with that timer, you could have it spray for 1 second every 30 seconds or 2 seconds every minute, it's really up to you. An Ultimategauge would be best to monitor IAT's and see what intervals the bulb starts to lose charge and adjust the timer accordingly.

For 10 bucks a 10 lb tank refill approx, I'd say this is pretty bad ***.

Outside of that, you are looking at methane injections before and after the intercooler and/or nitrous to cool the TRUE intake internal ambient temps. (IAT)

 

I just got the full 10lb Cry02 installation kit for 219.99 + 12 shipping.

You only need the bulb with legs from there, which is going for 70 on amazon.

It won't work so well without the 3.5 to 3 inch reducer I linked though because there is nothing to mount it to. You MIGHT be able to get it to fit with a needswings intake though, using the reducer. But unless it's mounted directly in front of the throttle body, you won't get much of an increase, according to waldig.

 

Looks like the seller of my 10LB Cry02 kit upped the price by 30$ today after he shipped mine...

 

I love anyone DIY new cool stuff but I think it would be easier to just a shoot a small 25 shot of nitrous or even meth with or without ECM modification. Love to keep track of your progress. Good happy wrenching.

Edit: this is coming from a guy that blew a dip stick on a sb Chevy further than the car went. Say a 1000 ft on 350 big shot plate. The pistons came out of the block with the ring lands crunched and with a nice big hole in one. Overdid it just a little. That was back in my youth. Car did raise the front tires off the ground three feet.

 

I actually do plan on adding a 25/35/50 maybe even a 75 shot down the line once I've tapped out on "safe zone" power. This is really just another way for us to get rid of the main issue we see "end game", which is heat soak! Plus it looks cool and not only isn't "bad" for my engine, but it will increase the overall life of it!

 

just did some calcs in my model.
A 36F (20C) increase in what I call snorkle temps at760cfm is about 9kW of additional heat and results in an increase ex the charger from 170 to 215F (dT 24C) and your AIT's "post charge air cooler" increase upwards from 131F (55C) upwards towards 170F (78C) - so almost 1:1
This drops your density and hence grams/sec and hence due to AFR measured via your MAP drops your fuel input and hence again - drops your horse power.

On a stock 75/157mm 14.5psi setup,Air Intake Density (Plenum) drops from 2.39kg/m3 to 2.21kg/m3
(after alllowing for a 25% improvement in cooling in the charge air cooler due to the greater dT).

This has a direct and almost proportional effect on horsepower of about 7.5% (20hp)
So the relationship between snorkle air and Plenum air is almost 1:1 (due to the cooler working harder 'cause the temps are up). Its just easier to strip heat out of the plenumm air due to the greater dT.

A very rough "rule of thump" corollary to this is that for every 36F (20C) you can nip out of the snorkle air (or for that matter AIT) - you'll get about 20hp extra through increased density going into the cylinders and that equates to about 10kW.

So if you can meth to cool 10kW or KC to cool 10kW - your get about 20hp gains.
Of course at 3000rpm the benefits of the KC improves since it is working regardless of rpm/speed.