Had some time today to put this together, took a bit longer than expected as I originally started with a grate drain idea but looked horrible and didn't fit.. I'm not sure how others got it to work who suggested it. I used plexiglass due to durability and it's extremely high resistance to heat - after a 30 minute drive it was much cooler than the rest of the stock intake. I used automotive filter element, surrounded by two identical plexiglass plates. I took my time to make sure the two plates were a perfect match and made identical diameter mounting holes as the stock plate. I used the stock screws to mount the assembly with no use of washers or anything else. Overall it looks good IMO, better than other examples that use other materials such as mesh. The fitment is perfect. My butt dyno is extremely happy, the biggest difference is at highway speed when I assume cooler air reaches that area. I trimmed the excess filter material once on the car, I can take some pictures tomorrow during daytime if anybody is interested.

44DA3576-8C6C-4591-A36F-36DFB5799938-173-00000147C1257143.jpg

 

looks didnt matter to me . it was the ability to get as much air as possible down the throat of the t/b. eother way it is still a cheap mod

 

I think I might redo mine with mesh for a bit more flow. What filter element did you use? I don't know if I should stick to the foam filter I used, use a paper style filter I sourced from an RSX filter I had laying around or go with something like you did. (please let me know where you purchased it). Thanks.

 

That certainly looks as though it would be VERY restrictive as far as the amount of air available through such a small amount of holes. While I realize it is just an additional amount you really should (as long as your going to the trouble of building it) supply more holes, possibly incorporate mesh into the equation.
Be careful when selecting foam filter material. Buying sheets of "high end" racing air filter foam is the best method then just cut to size.
Mike

 

So I'm guessing with these that the air preferentially comes in through the engine bay and avoids having to be sucked in through the stock pipes....
why have these side rubber inlets been kept at all?
Isnt engine bay temps an issue?

note - at 640cfm (stock 6000rpm) through the intakes. air is moving at about 130ft/sec....= very high.
XMan03's Little holes will not be helping much....

 

You need to mount the ait sensor somewhere, therefore the stock assembly needs to be kept. We are not talking about a 800whp Supra here, air movement here is average for a boosted V6. I'm not concerned about the 'little holes' restriction as it is just and added inlet and obviously the air will come in from the source of least resistance, I'm more concerned about the air filter being squeezed between the two plexiglass plate. I'll probably make another plexiglass version in the near future as it is perfect material for this since it's extremely heat resistant.

 

A hood scoop right above that location would be an ideal mod for max performance.

 

I concurr that a rear facing scoop is the answer and Have been trying to sell that idea on the carbon fiber hood thread. Less weight. Less complication, more cold air.

 

x2 where do I pay?

 

Old skool.

 

Tighed1, I would rather see rear facing, even a "shacker" hood like in the 80's Chevels/Mustangs etc..

 

I redid mine with automotive mesh from my old RSX filter using the same automotive filter as above and now the supercharger really whines

 

I would also recommend taking out the weather strip liner that makes a seal with the hood for anybody running this mod and in general. This along with removing the hood insulation should keep temps down a bit as the hot air will have an escape route especially while moving.