I recently boughht a srt 6 with mods. Supercharger sometimes cuts out or doesn't kick in at all. Any suggestions?

 

It's probably time for a new IC pump. Do a search for it and you'll find all the info you need. What mods do you have?

 

Car has 21k miles. Mods added catch can, intercooler isolation kit.needs wings manifolds, ajustable fuel kit and check valve, pulley saver kit, wavetrac differential, dual cold air induction, teflon coated lower y pipe, needs wings super cooler.I know nothing about this system. I own muscle cars with carbs.The intercooler fluid isolation lever is off, is this correct? Car is really quick when s/c is hitting. Don't know what chip has been added if any , where located under dash? Thanks

 

My guess is that the IC pump is bad. Rob @ Needswings (Performance auto parts & aftermarket auto accessories for your car, specializing SRT4, Crossfire SRT6, SLK32, C32 AMG, VR-4) can set you up with a new one. If your car has a tune, you will not have a chip. The car's computer would have been reprogrammed.

 

+3 on the IC pump. Read the threads to verify if its your problem.
With those mods I would assume the previous owner had the car tuned.
You can look up your vin in the registry on the forum here and maybe a previous member here owned it.
This may help you find out who tuned it.
Enjoy it. These cars are awesome.

 

Yes, intercooler pump 100% I had the exact same problem.

 

To all that replied on this so far - the OP mentioned that his car has the I/C isolation mod and the fluid lever is set to "off". I don't have the isolation mod, so I don't know how it operates, but could it be a simple turn of the lever? I find it odd that the previous owner modded all that stuff and didn't change out the I/C pump? I guess even an updated pump could go bad, but I would try the cheap fix before throwing parts at it.

Just my dos centavos

 

If it wasn't broken, the previous owner wouldn't have a reason to replace it as even the CM-30 isn't much in the way of a flow rate upgrade. Of course I'm speculating just as much.

 

OK - just read up on what configuration the valves should be in for "normal" operation of the I/C isolation kit.

From the NeedsWings web site:

Kit is to be installed with valves open, take the car through a heat cycle to purge out any air bubbles that were introduced into the line durring the install. Once the car has had a chance to purge out all the air bubbles the valves can be closed, which isolates the 2 systems.

So, it sounds like the iso kit is in the proper config for maximum S/C output. That being said .... +4 on the I/C pump replacement

 

If it was the isolation kit the problem wouldn't be intermittent. I/C pump.
BTW it looks like you bought it with a great list of mods! Congrats

 

Yes. Who's car was it.......Do you know?

 

Lang where are you located. +5 on the IC pump. Read up on the replacement. You will find it an easy swap out and not real expensive. Take note that there are 2 valves in the isolation system. Both closed the system is isolated. Both open and the system functions as oem. Never have one closed and the other open. You have all the good mods and the car should be really quick.

 

You should open both valves and see if that helps before buying anything.

 

The circuit could be low or out of coolant.