Here's a longish note on my experience. I purchased a 010 Bosch pump to replace what turned out to be an original 003 Bosch pump. Others have described the general steps to do this, I'd like to add a couple details. First, there was no lower screw to hold the wheel well fender panel to the fender. It was just missing. Also, the headlight access panel which should reside within the panel was/is just missing! So, in my quest to restore the car to "as new" condition, I'll need a new inner fender panel. Anyone know a good place to get such without having to sell the kids?

I started off with my mac air laptop showing the pictures an earlier (and generous) poster put up. Having the forum available as needed was extremely helpful in real time. I used a laptop knowing that filthy hands on a touch screen would be a mistake.

The passenger side headlight assembly has some minor internal condensation, which might have resulted from rain water being thrown through the missing panel insert - onto the back to the headlight assembly by the tire. I Need that insert...

I was able to remove the two torx screws and 2 10mm nut caps easily, but I was unable to completely remove the inner fender because there was something holding it to the car behind the intercooler pump mounting point that appeared to be on the inside of the fender. After failing to find this bolt, I just muscled the fender cover out of the way (no harm done) behind the brake disk. It was simple to remove the vacuum line and electrical connector from the end of the pump, and then it was tough to slide the spring loaded hose clamps up/away from the pump so as to get the water hoses of the inlet and outlet of the pump. I used a pair of pliers on both hose clamps to compress them and slide them up. Next I used a wide blade screw drive to loosen the hoses, being careful not to rip them by overtorquing them. I also use the pliers on the open jaw setting so the jaws could open enough to fit over/around the hoses and twisted gently back and forth to walk the hoses off.

In order to access the top hose better, I loosened the 10mm mounting bolt that holds the pump bracket to the car/ which is below the pump, pulled the braket away from the car and let the top tab come away from its mounting slot. This allowed the pump to drop down a bit so I could better access the upper spring clamp. Be sure to have a dry rag so you can steady the pump while you are compressing the spring clamp and with your third hand moving it away from and off the pump.

The upper hose leaked no fluid. The lower/center-of-the-pump hose leaked coolant, but I was ready with a metal wine stopper (not a cork) that has a graduated diameter so I could just keep shoving it in till the water stopped leaking (be sure to wash the stopper before you use it in a wine bottle again :-) ). I next learned that the pump was full of liquid, so Definitely keep a bunch of rags handy!!

The new pump will need the old rubber mounting sleeve and hanger bracket. Take note of the orientation of the flat side of the rubber mounting sleeve as you will want to duplicate this position when you put the sleeve on the new pump. This will ensure that the upper hose inlet ends up in the correct orientation relative to the upper hose so it will go on easily.

At first it seemed like the bracket and rubber sleeve were part of the pump, but it wasn't difficult to wedge a wide blade screw driver into a couple points after gently inserting the blade under the sleeve with a couple rubber mallet smacks around the pump circumference - it slid right off. Next I put the sleeve on the new pump and rotated it so it was in the same rotational position as it was on the original pump.

The new 010 Bosch pump has a nipple for the vacuum hose, but it does NOT have a hole like the old 003 pump has. I was a bit worried about that, but from earlier threads, it seems as though the vacuum port is no longer used. Just put the vacuum line on the new pump nipple and forget about it (i sure hope that's right!!). The power connector went right on w/no problem, making sure it was fully seated.

Putting the hoses back on was surprisingly easy, and after fully seating them, I walked the spring clamps back down so they rested in their original indentations on the hoses.

Next I slid the mounting bracket's upper tab into the slot on the frame and then swung the pump down so the lower bracket could line up with the mounting hole (it's really tough to see this) and then put the bolt through the bracket hole and then walked it around a bit while rotating the bolt until I got purchase on the threaded hole and made sure it wasn't cross threaded. Next, Replaced the inner fender panel and wheel. Cleaned up the junk/stuff/tools/rags.

Lowered the car and put a quart of spring water to replace the lost coolant and two drops of liquid automatic dishwasher soap (non-foaming) into the coolant reservoir.

DONE! One hour and I saved hundreds of bucks.

Thanks Crossfire Forum!

 

[QUOTE=Da55id;766424.......two drops of liquid automatic dishwasher soap (non-foaming) into the coolant reservoir.
[/QUOTE]

hhmmmmm and where did you get that idea?
what's it do?
b22b

 

You can get a new pair of those doors from Rob at NeedsWings for about $25 :
Fog Light Access Panels

You have to remove the plastic belly pan, then you will see 2 more plastic 10mm nuts holding the panel.

 

surfactant to reduce surface tension on water in intercooler etc so that it will adhere more closely to nooks and cranneys of water cooling jacket and intercooler and better remove heat from irregularity hot spots. Info derived from crossfire forum, mbworld, slkforum and supercharger forums, water wetter and etc etc. I believe it can't hurt and might help. If I'm wrong, I'm all ears.

 

Thanks! Ordered!

 

These dont look quite the same as my SLK32/SLK230 - would they fit or is this one point where we differ?

 

15 cm ( top to bottom ) X 14.8 cm ( side to side )

 

ok - made sure that I let the car warm up with the radiator cap off so all air could leave the cooling system, then took it for a nice top down (chilly) test ride. OMG what an awesome car! And the IC pump really seems to have fixed the hot/sluggishness problem. Got the wheel rash repaired today too. I'm getting a perma-grin as veterans on this forum predicted.

 

Brother....it's like you were posting my Saturday. From the missing access door, to the issues with the rubber sleeve, it was exact. I thought I was "slow" because I was having issues with a replacement that is supposed to be easy. I guess I'm not the only one who runs into problems. The trouble was well worth it, no? Really lit the car up.....Kirk

 

I keep a couple of hose clamps [ a few bucks at Harbor Freight] handy for jobs like this, they are invaluable. I have used them in the DCAI install and replacing the fuel pump with the SL55 one and the regulator and filter, as well as this pump. Good job though!