I will add one other thing. I don't know what pulleys you have, but the 65mm s/c pulley and the 178 crank pulleys are very close in what they produce with the 178 being just a little more.... so, running either one with a good cold air intake and a tune will certainly put in the 12-12.2 1/4 mi.

 

Code 3 generation 2

 

Did you like. More HP. Could u tell difference than just a code 3.

 

If you look at my sig line, you will see the black roadster times. The only difference since those times, I have added the modified intakes, and have retuned. I haven't change the times because I haven't taken the roadster back to the track since then. But that is what you can expect. Good luck...

 

I already have tune, DCAI, elimination of muffler, aem wideband, & code 3

 

I guess I misunderstood what you said you already had in post #3?? I have to go to work . . . I'm out of this one . . .

 

Gotcha...you are looking for more HP...well, talk to Steve, 32Krazy as he has ran the stacked set up. I understand now...I'm not a stacked guy, but Steve and Grip have been there done that. They go to Bowling Green a lot as well. I would hook up with them...good luck

 

more trouble than just a bolt on. you will be dealing with tuning, fueling and supercharger surge issues.
install the code 3 intake and tune for it. drive it and be happy

 

Well, I thought he was starting from scratch. I think he is looking for a little more. If so, then it is either more pulley, like the 62mm, or the 185 crank, intake manifolds, ?injectors?, certainly more fuel. If you ordered a go fast kit from Rob, and went with the 178, you won't gain much...If I understand what you are wanting to do. Certainly the intake, psk, I wouldn't use the spacers will all help as part of his kit.

 

If I remember correctly Steve finally jumped into the 11.7's with that setup.

What is the goal for this setup? Round town red light fun, or road course, autoX, back country roads?

 

^ 12.1 to 11.9 nick. way to much work for .02 at the track and the car was a pain in the *** on the street. do the code 3 and if you have to run fast follow grip with nitrous. the only way to get faster without dropping a v8 and twice the cost of car in it

 

yes, but he had a lot of problems getting there. If it is a daily driver, and cool weather to boot, then I see problems with a stacked set up. Just running a 185 or a 62mm is hard enough in cool weather to keep from leining... If he wants more, I would pick a pulley, one pulley, and run with it...later, got to fix the Tahoe....needs brakes, and it is suppose to snow this weekend...lol

 

I agree with you doc. Code 3, DCAI, and Tune it's the best most reliable combo.

 

I have a 178 crank pulley on my car now. I stacked the Code3 with it and had to remove it because of the AFR being KABOOM lean. Then being who I am, I added the Pierburg 55 pump and put the Code3 on again. It was still lean, around 13 AFR at the top of 3rd gear, but I ran it at the track anyway. I can tell you that from red light to red light, stacked is amazing fun. At the 1/4 mile the difference was less than .1 and an over boost cell. A whole lot of risk for almost nothing. If you insist on running stacked, I believe after adding the 550 cc injectors and getting the tune right you might pick up a few more tenths. I have an aversion to new tunes. It usually takes several unless you can take your car to be tuned on a dyno by someone who's good at tuning. E/C doesn't have a shop in my neck of the woods.

Les

 

I believe the surge Steve and I were experiencing was a result of detonation. At part throttle "closed-loop" the engine would see over 15psi and over 20 degrees of timing with an Air/Fuel of 14.7. That's way too little fuel for those conditions.

I think stacked is a great mod if you're determined to see how fast you can go in the 1/4 without spray, but it's a PITA when the surge hits and your face almost goes through the windshield. I'm sure this can be remedied by retarding the timing, but at that point your decreasing the power when the objective is to increase it.

 

We only have 1/8 in louisville. My 1/4 is on the street. A ford plant is here a lot of Stangs'

 

I was going to get EC tuned driving down to Atl at Buckhead Imports but if I don't have to I will be happy. I have heard you can tune remotely threw a laptop but I don't know good it is. I have inmotion tune now and from what I am hearing not a good tune. Here there a guy with an excellent following but he tunes VW and BMW. I don't know how he is with our cars. He said he can do it and has a dyno but I don't know if I believe he can since the cars are different.... Red to red light fun is what I am looking for. Like I said we only have 1/8 mile here so I will prolly not take the car to track much.

 

If this is all you're doing get a eurocharge tune, keep the DCAI, and stick with a Code 3 pulley. You can probably get a special buying them together.

 

You are understand right. Right now I have DCAI, tune, code 3, aem wideband, and muffler eliminate. I am trying to get more HP and ready 2 order parts. The parts I was going to order stage 2 from NW, PSK, SB, SL55 fuel pump, Phenolic Spacers, retune. I was wondering while I'm ordering parts should I stack the code 3. And what other parts are recommended.

 

Car doesn't get driven in snow. Summer car. I store it in the winter.