As promised, I went to Eurocharged in DC today and did a dyno run on the car with the new BOSCH 010 series Intercooler pump installed with no other changes from the earilier dyno run done with the dead pump.

The previous dyno run peak was 305 whp. Today, on a much colder and less humid day, the dyno showed 321 whp, a difference of 16 whp. Of note, is that the test was run from a cold start in the winter. I interpret this result to show that even in the absolute best conditions for the intercooler a dead pump will lose 16 whp. Once the car heats up, it would no doubt kill additional 10s of whp, and in the summer we all know that a dead IC pump will kill performance entirely perhaps a drop of 80 or more whp? Others might be better qualified to estimate this... OF VASTLY greater importance, the previous peak torque with the dead IC pump was 295 and post IC pump replacement was 327, a gain of 32 max torque. Peak torque came in at 2500 rpm with the new pump vs 3800 rpm with the dead IC pump.

After performing this apples to apples dyno test (same dyno, same tech, same setup, humidity was 12% on today's run vs 23% on dead pump run), I had a Needswings SCAI installed, and the final dyno result was 340 whp. Again, max torque of 339 came on strong 1k rpm earlier.

 

No comments on this? Was it unhelpful somehow?

 

Thanks for posting your results.

 

I'm liking what you're doing - step by step results. Although all cars will differ somewhat, it gives some good info on where one might get the biggest bang for the buck using real numbers and not just "seat of the pants" feel.

I already replaced the IC pump with the 010 Bosch but I have no other mods. I just did a EC tune but haven't driven it enough to get a feel for what that did. My early sense was that it still "feels" the same. That said, it is not my daily driver so whenever I get to drive it, it feels awesome, I just don't have any consistent time behind the wheel to really know the car.

Keep up the good work and keep the info coming - guys like me like to see this

RL

 

thanks! So, other stuff I can offer up by going step by step...

the wheels on this car had bad road rash. They were brought to almost new condition by wheelworkshopva@gmail.com in Northern VA/DC area. if anyone needs cost efficient door to door service on their wheels, they are fantastic!

Also, the body needed a lot of cosmetic repair and Innovation Body Shop of Temple Hills Md. did a truly fantastic job for very reasonable cost.

And of course Paul and Jerry at Eurocharged DC have been terrific partners on getting the car to be all it can/I want it to be. I'm more than happy with 340 whp. I asked for a very conservative tune from EC and the car drives like a luxury car - until I ask it to put on the Batmobile suit ;-)

 

So, if I am correct, you have a single NW CAI, 65mm pulley, and a tune? If so, those are very correct numbers. Dual NW CAI, will net a little more, modified intakes, will net a little more, smaller pulley, fuel upgrades will net a little more...so it is what it is. That is why there are so many numbers thrown out there, and each dyno is just a little different than the other. The tune might help your car, but might not do the same for someone else's car. You should be pleased with those numbers.

 

Yep, that's what I've got. I am very very happy with the results. The last time i modded a car in the mid 70s on a 280z, there was no way you could get this kind of reliable result with such an immediate and wide torque band so easily and cheaply. It's a wonderful car!

 

OK - I'm going to show my ignorance here. A 65mm pulley is for the S/C I'm guessing which is smaller than the OEM pulley, right?

The 185mm pulley I've seen mentioned in other posts is the crank pulley? And is harder to change and won't net as big of gains as the 65mm as a stand alone mod?

Does the 65mm pulley require a different belt or a pulley saver kit (PSK) that I've read about?

I've seen smaller S/C pulleys mentioned (maybe a 62mm?) but does that make a huge difference from the 65mm? Also, what is the size of our OEM S/C pulley?

Sorry for all the questions but after seeing all of these mods mentioned, I'm a little confused.

Thanks - RL

 

The disadvantage of the crank pulleys is that the water pump, idler and alternator now run at a higher speed and stress the bearings, hence the pulley saver kits. There are several crank pulleys, the 185 being the biggest, then 181 and 178, while stock is in the lower 170 range, not sure exactly. The 185 will give a gain equal to the best SC pulleys providing boost in the 22 and up range. The 181 gives about 20 psi boost, stock is 14.2. Changing the SC pulley wont require a new belt. I have the 181 crank pulley and that didn't need a new belt, the belt tensioner has a pretty good range of slack that it can take up. It was no more difficult to change the crank unit than the SC unit but, then again, I have a lot of tools, including a short but powerful air impact driver. Oh, a change of 3 mm on a SC pulley is much more significant than a 3 mm change on a crank pulley. It's a percentage thing.

 

65 mm supercharger pulley = more or less the 178 crank pulley / uses stock belt
62mm supercharger pulley = more or less the 185 crank pulley / uses shorter belt
The crank pulley kits come with a water pump replacement pulley to slow it down
The pulley saver kit slows down the idler pulley, water pump pulley and gives the belt more % of wrap on the supercharger pulley and uses a different belt.

As far as the dyno results they look normal to me. It took me lots of mods to pass 300 hp. Then all of a sudden I made a couple of changes and boom, 30 hp. mas.

Les

 

the 178 crank pulley and the 65mm s/c pulley are very safe to run. You will not lien out running these pulleys. The advantage although little goes to the crank pulley as far as HP gains. But, the risk is greater unless you buy a PSK.... If you want to keep your car stock, and just enjoy a little more out of it, just get a sprint booster to get rid of the lag in the throttle and a needswings cai. The cold air intake is a great improvement over stock, and really doesn't hurt a thing. Adding a pulley and a tune really only nets you about a half second more in the quarter mile. Unless you are competing, you will never know the difference. My wife feels I have ruined the roadster because it not fun for her to drive anymore. I can understand her feelings. Both cars are very touchy until you get used to them, but that is what I like. Not so much for her. My sons love it. But I could see where it would get old if a daily driver. Just so many accidental tire spinning starts a guy can take...lol.