First let me start out saying I have owned many vehicles and probably have spent well over $100,000+ in aftermarket parts. I have been through the run around with many companies that have sent me defective parts and it's always a hassle. I had issues with the first 65mm pulley they sent me, the gap between where the bearing seats and the snap ring was too large, I never could get an accurate gap as the bearing inside the pulley shifted back and forth throwing the gap either too wide or smashing the pulley into the clutch. I contacted Eurocharged last Monday and explained the situation, they asked me to send pictures explaining the problem, I took pictures that night and sent them off. The next day I received an email asking to send the pulley back for inspection, I boxed it up and sent it out. They received it on Friday afternoon and I contacted them this past Monday, he said they inspected it and were going to get me a new one sent out, no questions asked. I received the new pulley yesterday, got it on the car and it is running and working perfect.

I was very impressed with their customer service, never one time did they accuse me of screwing something up and got me a new pulley back in a very timely manner and just in time for the races this weekend. I just wanted to post this up, as I am new to this forum i'm sure most here already know about their customer service, but too many times on forums people only post when something bad happened with a company, I also like to post when good stuff happens too.

 

just to clarify e/c didn't make the original 65mm pulley. code 3 did and it was a flawless pulley

 

I thought they made an aluminum version that had problems, grooves in it that ate belts and rivets that came loose.

The EC pulley that was sent back by the OP should have been never sold in the first place. Subcontractors cannot be trusted at times to deliver parts that are to the drawing.
Anyone having problems similar to the OP should check that the bearing is not free to float from end to end too much.

 

I purchased a Code3 aluminium pulley (at full price) and it lasted less than 2 years. No problems with belt slippage that I could detect. When it began to make noise I replaced the bearing. The bearing didn't solve the racket so I went with a 178 crank pulley that I still run to this day. I don't have information or experience with the E/C pulleys. I do have experience with E/C. I've had my issues with their products from time to time. Most importantly, they've always made it right. That means a lot and is what this thread is about. If your not happy they will do all they can to fix what needs fixing. The Code3 aluminum pulley was a failure. A full price (for me) POS IMO.

Les

 

I was also a victim to the original EC 64.7mm pulley, and I completely agree with the above statement. I realized the issue with it before I even installed it. It was a P.O.S.!! BUT, EC took quick care of me and got the new replacement (no doubt from another machine shop)to me as soon as they had it completed. I have no hard feelings about it. After many miles and occasional autoX and track days, I've had no issues what so ever with the version 2 pulley.

 

Some are not aware that one of the flat springs can break and come out like a lawn mower blade and cut the s shaped water hose that goes' to the oil cooler ($106.00 from stealer ship). I placed a clamp in the middle of the hose so that when (if) it happens again I might hear a racket before it eats thru the hose and looses all the coolant.

 

I noted some problen with the springs and rebuilt it, and it working so far. Knock on wood.

 

the grooves just has sharp edges. as the pulley wore in it was no longer a problem. they did another model without grooves but mine had them and i never lost a belt to them. as for the rivets it was a wear item that affects almost every s/c pulley that has a magnetic backing that flexes the straps

 

I can see the belt rounding the sharp edges off.

Les had trouble with his pulley and I remember that it was a problem with loose rivets.

You cannot just hammer any old rivet in these things and expect them to work for any length of time. The rivets have to be a really good fit in the holes in the clutch plate, the spring and the main body to start with. A push fit would be good. Any looseness at the start will get worse as the rivet moves from side to side in the oversize hole and any clamping pressure will soon be lost.

The riveting of steel to aluminum is fraught with problems and the working life before the loosening of the rivets is shortened. Two years for Les as he states, he probably heard the noise before he gave up on it. He posted a video of the noise I recall.

Even the rivets in steel/steel construction should be tight fits to start to lengthen the life span. Pulleys made without the proper hole sizing are doomed to fail sooner than well made ones. Too often these parts are rushed to market for the quick buck and profits lost when the part has to be replaced.

 

Got to love it. Spent a little time with Jake yesterday as Eurocharged has a shop in my own back yard as of yesterday. Going to go check them out and see if they can deliver like the other shops out there. The code 3 like any new pulley had it's hiccups, and he always took care of it, just like Jake does. My first pulley wasn't quite true, and he replaced it right away, and it is still running today with no problems. I have another in the tool box, a gen 1. I never liked aluminum pulleys, as mine are both steel. I am running the karmann pulley on the coupe, and it has been flawless so far. Again, bad mouthing a new concept when the distributors warrants it without question isn't good for them or us. **** happens racing. You don't want it to happen, leave the car stock.

 

Not too many real racers on this forum, 15 seconds bursts do not count as racing in my book. Les and Hustler etc race, others - not so much. They test the product by varying the speed of the pulley and put the pulleys through more vigorous testing in a few laps than others do in a lifetime of drag and roads.

 

Dave. When I see your old *** on a track, I will start to listen to you. Until then...you are wasting your fingers. And, for the record you are full **** on that statement. Their track time doesn't measure squat to the constant driving, plus track days, and all the fun on the street. Go back to your garage and polish yours and enjoy it. I doubt either log 4K miles on their track days.

 

I have not polished mine for two years. I'm too old to waste time in quarter miles dashes, I prefer fly fishing, it's much more exciting.

 

I respect your opinion here, let that be known. And we all have times where can misjudge. This is plain talking out of your ***. In context though, there's never a guarantee with any company, whether they have a manufacturer contract or not (ahem, GM) you get actual R&D.

Especially in the latter case, it's commendable that an aftermarket company would uphold their name by being there for the customer, and resolving the issue. And I think in the spirit of the OP's post, that's the real point.

 

Well I see you do 1/4's so I can see you getting a bit miffed.
My point is that many of these products get pushed out there before the dust has settled. Rudy tested the pulley he was involved in which is a good thing, the last thing you want is a pulley fragging under your hood. The materials are suspect as well, the aluminum ones where much easier to make and if sold at steel pulley prices mean more profit.
I'd like to know if all the new pulleys return to the stops after each clutch plate movement. Frankly I doubt it as some did not after they were run in, remember all the adjustment issues? My OEM one does, so why not them?

 

Two for two friend. I mark that pass as I think it's remarkable for stock. Outside of that, I have no reason to dissertate my full catalog in a forum signature.

My second point stands, and I do agree with your position. In fact I think it's congruent with mine, and likely others.

 

Thanks a bunch for the good feedback!

 

I know this is an old thread but does anyone know how to fix this issue? I got stranded 2 days ago from my pulley turning into a lawn mower and slicing that s bend hose. Is it a whole new pulley? I just got the pulley around a year ago from Eurocharged and also whats the best description I can give the dealership to get a new correct hose?

Thanks!!!

 

Nice ,with all that great kit you've got on your car, i am surprised you don't know the answer.

yes, you need a new pulley and hose.
also, get a scatter shield and put that on too.

 

Same happened to me and I called EC and they said sorry but we will sell you a new one and then I hear more and more people having the same problem ?? You would think they would step up to bat and replace something that keeps breaking ????