ok so with all the shims (3 old and 1 new) i have a varying gap, anywhere from .010 to .022 how can this be? when i turn the pulley on the shaft the gap varies, am i doing something wrong? or is that because of the spring in the pulley?

 

If you take a look at the bearing inside the new pulley I think that it's possible that you will find that it is not seated evenly in the pulley.

 

What kind of pulley are we talking about, an OEM one or a smaller one?
The clutch plate should be pulled by the springs against the stops.

 

brand new eurocharged 67mm pulley, bearing looks seated correctly.

 

Is the clutch plate pulled back against the stops?
Have you run this pulley yet?
What gap does EC recommend?

 

I guess i said two different things there.. I should have said i think the specs call for .010 to .015, and i am going by memory,, and mine is set with two credit cards thick, and you are right the cards are .030 so mine is set at .060,pushed back., with the springs pushed back when cards are removed i have about .015,, this may not be the way you want to set yours but it is my way. thanks onehundard for pulling that info out of me LOL.

 

Eurocharged recommends .016 I was able to get there with 2 oem shims

 

I don't understand the clutch plate pulled against the stops, so maybe that's my problem, can someone explain this a bit better, what to do here.

I have not yet run this pulley, replacing the stock one with this one.

 

When the pulley is in your hand the three dog bone springs are holding the clutch plate against some fixed stops on the back of the pulley. The magnet pulls the clutch plate of the stops toward the black disk that is mounted on the SC. Magnetism inside the black disk makes the clutch plate stick to this disk. The clutch plate should be against the stops when the magnet is not operating.

 

What do you guys think caused that bolt to break ? Being loose ? defective bolt ? Any way of a preventing this from happening or is this a rare case ???

 

ok so I ended up using all four shims, and spacing was ok, with some variation, I ran the vehicle all good, no weird noises, so took it around the block and down the street, didn't run right, felt like supercharger wasn't working right, maybe like it was engaged the whole time, and even though i turned off the traction control it started engaging and flashing at about the same rpm the supercharger should have engaged, so i pulled back into my garage, took a look under the hood, and i have no gap, it's completely gone. So am I to assume i need more shims? and realign it again? maybe the pulley wasn't all the way back at the stops when i installed it? maybe something was off with the pulley and now that i ran it the pulley is right but my gap is set wrong?

 

Ask EC what the initial setting should be, the other after market pulley said it should start with a huge gap and when the so called spring gets stretched you should end up with the correct gap. I got $hit when I said that it could not be a spring in the proper sense of the word.

 

Ralph, the part that gave was a rivet. I've seen it happen a few times in the past 3-4 years.

 

Thanks, guess I should have looked at mine first, would have seen it.

 

do u have a stock pulley if yes put it on the car,, then rather NOW everything is alright ,, call whom ever you got the pulley from and raise hell. I had a aftermarket pulley that closed up on me ,,so i added shims 4 times i had almost 75 thousands in there and it still closed up when i called they said ,,,,sorry they used springs that weren't designed for the pulley,, sent it back to them got a new pulley so far it works ok. and with .10 shims,,,,, this is for my v8 jim

 

I got my 65mm (not 67 as i stated earlier) pulley from EC from their last run of pulleys, in fact I had to wait for it to be made, I'll give it one more shot with some more shims and see what happens, and will call them to discuss, I just wanted to make sure I am doing everything right, and get everyones input since you guys have installed them before.

As far as their gap setting in instructions it says .20 to .30, not 100% sure if that indicated a much bigger gap at first or if it's a typo and they meant it to be .020 to .030, big difference, and I see a lot of typos in their instructions.

 

If they mean .20 to .30 then the pulley is going to be out of alignment line with the rest of the pulleys. It will be .20 to .30 out of position. I'd say that will lead to premature wear of the belt or belts coming off.
The other pulley that was put together had a large initial gap (.15?)and that meant that the belt on that was out of alignment.
These pulleys were made with cheap so called springs if that is the requirement for the set up.
If you use an OEM pulley the setting is .012 to .016 and it stays at that size. These new pulleys are OK but the spring should be a spring not some plain bit of steel.
The definition of a spring is that it should return to its original shape after a deformation that does not exceed its elastic limit.

These springs drive the SC and ideally they should be flat so that the forces are all down the length of the spring, obviously to get a gap when the magnet is not activated there has to be a gap, and the smaller the gap the closer to being flat the spring is. With a large gap the spring is driving the SC with a steeply angled spring which is not too good for the life of the spring as it will want to buckle under the load a little after a while this will stress the spring and it could fail.
We have seen a picture of a drive plate that got too hot due to slipping while in contact with the clutch plate.

 

ok so I got my gap right, but when i drive the vehicle it still doesn't seem right, I am not sure if its slippage i sense, it's almost like sometimes it engages fully and the vehicle is a rocket, all though when this happens even with the traction control turned off the warning light flashes, that's when i start feeling some kind of slippage, or it seems like its a dog and not engaging when it should under moderate acceleration, would you say that this means the pulley is not engaging fully? ie too big of a gap? or can it be the belt slipping, i bought a new belt just didn't put it on yet, i wanted to get the pulley right first. thanks to all those helping me and being patient with me, i didn't think this was going to be such an ordeal.

 

I am not too sure from your description but if it feels like a dog then maybe the SC HE coolant pump is not working and the SC is switched off when it gets too hot.

 

first ,yes the TC control light will flash at WOT with the TC turned off. second if the IC pump is not working , your SC will not in gauge, even though you can drive the car that way U just have no power. email Rob at Needwings for a new pump and you are good to go. one way to test the pump is when the car is cold the SC IC pump works great, then after 2 to 4 WOT jaunts, it has no power ,,,let it idle or shut it off for 5 min. then it works again,,,it is the pump! jim