I took a quick look. It looks like the intake manifolds need to be removed right? If so then what is the best gasket to use when the intake manifolds are put back? Any other tips are appreciated. Searched but did not see exactly what I was looking for. THX!

 

Manifolds have to come off. I removed the fuel rail along with the injectors and did the swap on my work bench. Use the stock metal intake gaskets coated with copper spray.

Les

 

What size injectors did you decide to go with and where did you get them?

 

I use the TTM 550 injectors with Needs Wings cork rubber gaskets. You must spray (only) one side of the manifold gaskets with 3M spray contact glue. Also spray only one side of the 4 cork rubber O-rings that comes with the gaskets. When the contact adhesive gets tacky,press the gaskets and 4 o-rings onto the manifolds. Squirrel Crusher

 

I bought a set of 440cc inj's but it seems I already have 440's in the car! the ebay seller has a set of 550cc but they are the same part number as what I already bought from him, afraid I wasted $190. Still do the intake manifolds need to be removed to change the injectors? Squirrel what do those cost, Rob sell them? What to do! Sorry I see I need to have the intake removed and obtain gaskets.
My motor has 0280156072's and I bought 0280155968 both Bosch and what I bought is a drop in from a Volvo. Now I need to find a true set of 550cc inj's it seems.

 

If you use any injector other than Bosch then you may need a wiring harness adapters and want be able to use the factory injector retainer clips. No biggie not being able to use the retainer clips because the bolted down fuel rail want allow the injectors to blow out. Way back in June 2014 the kit of TTM 550 injectors,EV1-EV6 wiring harness and looped fuel rail cost me $800.00 Plus Shipping. Purchased from Bruce at TTM. With these injectors and most others you want be able to use your injector clips. 550 injectors will make your car run Pig Rich unless you have serious mods. If your determined to run 550's then quickly figure in a Dyno tune to scale them down when running basic mods or you may wash out the piston rings from the excess fuel washing away the cylinders vital oil film. Squirrel Crusher

 

The ebay vendor said I could return the 440's for a set of 550cc's. Jerry will do the tune for the fuel. Then I am hopeful the adjustable regulator will fine tune what I need, 11.5-12.0:1 AFR.

 

Les, are you saying the stock gaskets can be reused with the copper spray? The shop I use is fairly competent if I give them the right parts with
very good directions!

 

By adjusting my fuel regulator control, I can run 10:1 all day if I choose with stock injectors, fuel flow is a function of pressure not injector size - restriction.

WDY

 

Thank you Woody, I've been trying to tell anyone who would listen that the only thing larger injectors might do is lower the duty cycle.

 

That is all partially true within 2 constraints. 1, if the injectors are close enough to original size and within range of ecu adjustment. And 2, if the engine is running in closed loop. Larger injectors are essentially the exact same thing as running higher static pressure, both result in more flow. And both ALLOW lower duty cycle, if the ecu detects and can compensate for the additional fuel, or the tune has been modified for it. But on stock tune, both will run pig rich on cold start and WOT.

 

YUUP

I adjust the regulator with the boost to overcome the flooding issue, run about 60 PSIG at idle. 65 at about 19 PSIG boost.

W:DY

 

Guys. Here is everything. I have the adjustable regulator. I can go way rich. What I cannot do is run a good AFR for power, 11.5-12.0:1. Jerry at EC said I need larger injectors, that he cannot tune the stock 440c inj's any richer. I have changed the adjustable regulator many times and cannot get a good AFR without going lean.
How can I run the regulator boost, adjusted run a long hose back to the regulator from where? Where do I get the boost signal. Also why will larger injectors work? I seem to be beyond what the stock injectors can handle, duty cycle, etc.

If I am running the stock injectors beyond the duty cycle and even with the regulator this cannot be adjusted to what is needed what could I do? I guess I don't get it. I can adjust to be very rich, not in a good AFR range. I get adding duel is what is needed and at partial throttle I can rev to redline and not go lean, it is at wot that I have the issue. just added this as I did not think larger injectors were needed. I thought the regulator would do the trick .

 

Do you not have the small vacuum line at the fuel pump, filter location?

 

Yes but it is not secured well. Rob said it could be left to atmosphere. It is a fuel issue but I cannot make it rich enough. It simply goes lean up top at WOT no matter how rich I make it with the regulator. So what else can I do but have larger injectors or go back to a stock SC pulley. I only added 6.6% of boost with the 70mm sc pulley. I almost think it was going lean up top with just the 65mm SC pulley. My SC seems to make more boost than many. With just the 65mm pulley I would see 18-19spi.

Honestly, if I cannot make it rich enough no matter how rich I get with the regulator what is the next option. Running 10:1, which is as low as my wideband will go so it may even be richer it goes lean up top. Again I ask what is the option? Even if I has the regluator boost regulator it would not help but make it even richer so what to do?

 

Just curious, have you checked pressure while doing a run? Everything may be set correctly, but there could be a mechanical issue reducing flow/pressure. Failing pump...

 

How to check that, no gauge on the hood for pressure. It is just at very rpm's, say 5500 and up. If I try to go a bit leaner for power it goes lean sooner. Does the small vacuum line by the pump add fuel under boost? mine is not secured and Rob said it could be open to atmosphere but all it needs is a zip tie if anyone can say it adds fuel under boost, I don't know.

 

I really don't know how these cars work with boost and the regulator, just form other stuff I have worked with (Old 2.2 Turbos) But if you get a test gauge for fuel pressure and can rig it up to the wiper area, you can see it while driving. Or if you have a dyno shop you can use. Depending on how bad you want to know. I have known of people to run without a hood so then can see an engine mounted fuel pressure gauge for testing. Never run one into the car, you don't want pressurized fuel having a chance to spray and ignite you!

 

Yeah, got that! i don't think it is a pressure issue as it responds to adjustments, meaning the regulator. I just need to know if that small line should be hooked up and if it supplies anything fuel wise with the increase in pressure. Anyone?

 

The cork gaskets didn't hold up for me. I actually ended up making a set by hand from a sheet of 3M high temp, high pressure fiber gasket material. What part of FL are you in? I traced out 2 additional sets when I did mine.