My stacked 178/70 is still not set to run at a proper AFR at high rpm, WOT runs. however until the motor gets hot it is OK and I am in SW Florida, hot here. I think one of the members said he had a T-stat with 4 holes drilled in it that ran too cold on very cold days. Jerry could command the fan to come on high at all times.
I know the motor is designed to run at a certain temp but mine may be too hot, will do a datalog and find out here it is at. Any other ideas or suggestions? THX!

 

hood scoops/vents. needswings has the cooler thing that uses the air conditioning.

You could also get a water injection kit, that will cool intake temps down immensely and help with EGT's.

Or return your car to stock.

 

Stock or modified here in SW Florida the car runs too hot but Woody took the time to find his thread on making a 172* T=stat, much appreciated. I'll give it a try. Thanks Woody!

 

I use this in my Crossfire: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...zKsWVRTG75y-6w

 

The ncar is almost stock now but being in SW Florida I notice it runs a bit too hot. Woody shows how to make a 172* T-stat but tht looks a bit involved. Woody, care to make one and sell it to me? LOL

 

I use the " WATERWETTER" on my XF too. Works very well, best I can tell about 15degrees cooler.

 

My coupe usually runs 186-188F after a few hours on the turnpike with the AC at MAX on a 90+ day. Have seen 192-194 at a stoplight. Under 200F I am not concerned. (I do have a digital readout from the OBD-II bus on the dash).

ps my experience is that older cars run fine at 160F but computer cars generally get a bit cranky much under 180F. Had a '90 Bonnie that ran fine for years untill drove up North in the winter. Past Atlanta all of a sudden the Lockup unlocked aand nthe tach jumped. Pulled into a rest area, checked everything out, got back on the road and fine for about five miles then unlocked again. Happened twice more until I figured out the thermostat was stuck open. AT 80F it did not matter but at 40F & 70 mph it was cooling off, dropping out of closed loop, and unlocking. Stop in rest area, no air through radiator and would warm up again. On the road it would cool back down.

Bottom line: a computer car is fine at 180-185F but don't try to run under that without reprogramming.

pps gauges always lie, just depends on how much. I use an IR thermometer gun on hoses and thermostat housing to find the real temperature.

 

Killer chiller, supercooler, colder plugs, water meth, bigger intake filters, a good tune, -10 degree fan mod,... heck even higher octane fuel helps if tuned properly

Those all help

 

I have an SLK32 and there is no room for the killer/super chillers. I'll try some of the other suggestions. Thanks

 

.....the KC and tank would most likely replace your IC unit under the front bumper - but it won't make your car run cooler...just lower your AIT's. the heat still ends up back in the engine bay.


Get some data before panicing....

 

No panic, would simply like to see 80*C. Also am not hacking up the car. Quite powerful for the few mods and it being a 3.2l motor in a car weighing over 3200#