Rough idle
Hi All-
I haven't had an issue with my SRT-6 in a loooong time. So here is what it does. Upon start-up, it has a rough idle. No codes, no nothing. Just that. Otherwise, everything is great! Any suggestions? Thanks!!
I haven't had an issue with my SRT-6 in a loooong time. So here is what it does. Upon start-up, it has a rough idle. No codes, no nothing. Just that. Otherwise, everything is great! Any suggestions? Thanks!!
Okay, thanks guys. Yes, it acts very much like a vacuum leak. I'll put fresh gas in it and take a couple of spirited runs.
Hi everyone-Well, I just got around to replacing the CPS per site recommendation. Bosch plug and play/exact replacement. I rarely drive the car (14k bought it new), fair weather only and we're talking Central California. So, here's what it does. Rather than rough idle on start up like it used to do, it runs great for 5-6 miles with the new CPS then resorts to the rough idle. Smells like its running rich at that time. The only thing out of the ordinary is that when I put a load on the electrical system (mostly headlights), it begins this rough idle again shortly after. This Jeckyl/Hyde persona is running thin. What a love/hate relationship The battery was replaced 2 years ago with an upgrade. Could it be I'm just not driving it a bit? I've read that the SRT-6 is sensitive to voltage/anomalies. It is that a rabbit hole? This idling issue got progressively worse till I just wouldn't drive it until this is rectified. Any and all suggestions would be gratefully accepted. Thanks!!!
Did you check for vacuum leaks as suggested? Also pull the MAF sensor an clean it , inspect air filters (change). Charge the battery fully, before you go out. Make sure you clean an inspect the battery connections as well as the cables. Also the grounding lug that attaches at the fender.
Also the grounding lug that attaches at the fender.
Bought a neg battery cable at NAPA that runs from the battery over to a bolt on the bell housing ( engine ) and also has a small wire that runs to the old fender well ground point.
I feel like I am now speaking from a firmly grounded position
Did you check for vacuum leaks as suggested? Also pull the MAF sensor an clean it , inspect air filters (change). Charge the battery fully, before you go out. Make sure you clean an inspect the battery connections as well as the cables. Also the grounding lug that attaches at the fender.
I got rid of that as the primary.
Bought a neg battery cable at NAPA that runs from the battery over to a bolt on the bell housing ( engine ) and also has a small wire that runs to the old fender well ground point.
I feel like I am now speaking from a firmly grounded position
Bought a neg battery cable at NAPA that runs from the battery over to a bolt on the bell housing ( engine ) and also has a small wire that runs to the old fender well ground point.
I feel like I am now speaking from a firmly grounded position
Just saying you have a better ground in the engine than on the body, but it's the best of both worlds when you have both ! .....
MAP should be low at idle if you have a leak. Also O2 readings should be low. A computer car can conceal many ills but should be visible to instrumentation. Significant vaccuum leak will often result in P0170/P0173 codes (may be pending so no light).


