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Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 01:31 PM
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dodgemahal's Avatar
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Default Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

When I bought my srt6 in Florida it never occurred to me the windshield fluid formula was for milder temps. Here in Illinois we had some of the coldest temps in years and I think the fluid froze and cracked the bottle, leaking the fluid out all over the floor. How should I approach this? New bottle, or repair the old? Lastly, all I see is the filler neck disappear into the fender apron.....anyone tell me how to extract it? Is there a thread here about this? Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 01:36 PM
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NeedsWings's Avatar
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From: Michigan
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

if you are trying to pour in more than a gallon from empty, it is leaking out the "vent" and hitting the ground. the initial gallon should still be in the tank.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 02:45 PM
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Steve Jr's Avatar
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From: Knoxville
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

Go to , Technical, then How to articles,. There, is a how to Sticky dedicated to just this solution..
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 02:50 PM
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ala_xfire's Avatar
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From: Lineville, AL
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

Originally Posted by Steve Jr
Go to , Technical, then How to articles,. There, is a how to Sticky dedicated to just this solution..
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-reservoir.pdf
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 03:23 PM
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Steve Jr's Avatar
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Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

Thank you , George..
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 04:27 PM
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ala_xfire's Avatar
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From: Lineville, AL
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

What can I say ? I'm a hand holder I rekon.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 04:30 PM
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onehundred80's Avatar
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From: Ontario
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

I had my tank start to leak a few months back, it cracked around the spigot upon which it sits. It split on the seam where it is pinched during the molding operation. At the pinch line the two sides of the plastic which are semi molten at the time are squeezed together and they set as if welded. That is the idea but the join is the weak spot and sometimes it leaks later.
If you know what you are doing you can weld the seam, but generally you should replace the tank and save the hassle. My one also cracked away from the seam, I think I could fix it but I have a new tank.

When you replace it you should add a plate with a hole for the spigot and put some silicone between the two faces to support the tank over a bigger surface to spread the load. I did that when I had the tank out to clean it inside but it still cracked. Good idea though despite the fact it cracked, maybe without the plate it would hsve cracked earlier. This is all explained in lugnuts article.

The area the tank sits gets a lot of crap in it, clean it out to stop it acting as a damp spot encouraging rust. I cleaned out mine and sprayed a rust proofing product in there, something like waxoil. The hose from the drain in the cowel is in there and l intend to make the hose longer and drain onto the road not inside the fender. The hose I add will have the inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the drain so no potential catch point is formed.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 09:40 PM
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dodgemahal's Avatar
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Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

Originally Posted by onehundred80
I had my tank start to leak a few months back, it cracked around the spigot upon which it sits. It split on the seam where it is pinched during the molding operation. At the pinch line the two sides of the plastic which are semi molten at the time are squeezed together and they set as if welded. That is the idea but the join is the weak spot and sometimes it leaks later.
If you know what you are doing you can weld the seam, but generally you should replace the tank and save the hassle. My one also cracked away from the seam, I think I could fix it but I have a new tank.

When you replace it you should add a plate with a hole for the spigot and put some silicone between the two faces to support the tank over a bigger surface to spread the load. I did that when I had the tank out to clean it inside but it still cracked. Good idea though despite the fact it cracked, maybe without the plate it would hsve cracked earlier. This is all explained in lugnuts article.

The area the tank sits gets a lot of crap in it, clean it out to stop it acting as a damp spot encouraging rust. I cleaned out mine and sprayed a rust proofing product in there, something like waxoil. The hose from the drain in the cowel is in there and l intend to make the hose longer and drain onto the road not inside the fender. The hose I add will have the inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the drain so no potential catch point is formed.
That is just some great insight. Thanks everyone all for your input. I will pull, repair, and and replace that bottle, doing all the extras outlined above by my new best friend. Haha! Oh yeah, nice write-up Lugnuts.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 07:46 PM
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Morphh's Avatar
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From: Canada
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

Originally Posted by dodgemahal
That is just some great insight. Thanks everyone all for your input. I will pull, repair, and and replace that bottle, doing all the extras outlined above by my new best friend. Haha! Oh yeah, nice write-up Lugnuts.
I have c32amg and had same thing happene it was pita, pump was leaking,gasket for pump and the 2 plugs where all leaking, also the lid for was cracked as well, mine in c32amg is heated, so I took off the whole bumper and replaced pump 20.00 gaskets plugs where 3.00, 3.00, new lid was 12.00. Cheap but pain in butt, I think through time all the gaskets had disintegrated.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2018 | 12:45 PM
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blasco403's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Alberta, Canada
Default Re: Windshield washer fluid bottle debacle

Hello,

I used Bondic to repair a seam separation on the WSW reservoir of my Envoy and it has held up well for over 2 years.

Make sure you get a proper UV light flashlight as the little light that comes with the Bondic Applicator is a PoS.

Remove, dry, scuff up the repair area, layer on the Bondic....
 
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