Hey everyone,

I've searched the forums and have come up dry so either I'm dumb and don't know the right words to search by (I tried "limp mode" for example) or maybe this hasn't happened to anyone else?

Anyways, my SRT is acting weird when I try to get on it... It doesn't have the power it should when I give it more than basically 50% throttle. So lets say I'm going 30 or 40 and I get on it, it downshifts as it should and the engine starts screaming with higher r's but it doesn't go like it should. It just slowly accelerates (Trust me here, it normally moves like a bat out of hell as we all know!!!).

A bit of history here:

I bought the car on 10/8/18 and right away I was getting on it to test it out on the highway and the car shut off on me while driving. Many of you told me to bring both a crank shaft sensor and a cam shaft sensor with me so I might be stranded (I flew to Florida and drove this car home). Sure as hell it was the crankshaft sensor causing the issue. I diagnosed in on the OBD2 and replaced the sensor in my old employees garage right there in Tampa. The check engine light also came on with this. This is the one I used here:
From there here is my detailed maintenance I've done from my notes:

Crossfire cabin filter 10/20/18
Crossfire power steering fluid 11/15/18
Crossfire water pump 5/6/19
Crossfire driver side valve cover gasket 5/6/19

Okay, fast forward here just over 2 years later and now the car is limping along. I still have the camshalf sensor (This one here: ) Which I have *NOT* replaced yet. Could this be the issue with this car doing this? I might also mention that the check engine light has NOT come on while this has been going on for about 2 months now.

The AC doesn't work correctly which I (we/you all here) have determined that it's the 2nd water pump that ALSO needs to be replaced too but this seems to be un-related to this limp mode that this car is doing now but I haven't done it cuz I have no time lol. It's on the list of things to do next year along with an oil change and new tires.

Thanks everyone for your expertise on my baby!!

 

There are two Bosch pumps. If you are not using the new pump #0392022010, you will exhibit the symptoms you are showing. The old pump which often failed is #0392022002. Those are Bosch numbers. if you use the Mercedes number you will pay more for the name.
Search "new intercooler pump".

 

zip439,

Are you saying that that 2nd water pump is what is causing this which I was going to replace anyways? The AC "sticks" for lack of better word and will go hot and then cold again, usually on the passenger only side. You are saying that if I replace that secondary pump (Which I was going to do anyways because of the HVAC issue) that it will also fix the lack of power problem?

This is it here I see:
Thanks!

 

NO those numbers I gave you are for the intercooler pump. Are you sure you have the new updated/improved pump on your car now? I saw where you changed it out a couple years back.

 

No,

This is the pump I replaced. It's the primary water pump: https://www.needswings.com/water-pump-32amg. I bought it from Rob at Needs Wings too and it's working great as my other one was leaking and the bearing in the center was shot as it was the original.

So there are three total pumps here... You have the primary water pump which I replaced, you have the secondary water pump which I think I need to replace regarding the A/C not working correctly and now this IC pump which I thought was for water but it's for intercooler fluid I take it? I see this here: https://www.needswings.com/bosch-int...fluid-pump-010 and this verbiage:

"This is the UPDATED BOSCH Intercooler Fluid Pump for use on the supercharged m112 and m113 motors.

When the OEM outdated failure prone pumps die, they stop pumping the intercooler fluid, which in turn increases the air intake temperature past the threshold at which the ECU turns off the supercharger to prevent damage. Your car will then continue to drive (without any check engine light) like it lost half of it's power as the supercharger is no longer turned on. This can be verified by watching your air intake temperature on an obd2 scanner.

These UPDATED Intercooler Fluid Pumps do an excellent job! There is no need to try to use a boat bilge pump in our opinion which will create unwanted pressure and stress onto the expensive intercooler burried in the "V" of your motor. This is the pump we run on our personal cars! New Clamps Included.

We also carry the Optional Repair Harness for this pump (Factory Connector). Not required unless your OEM harness has been modified or damaged."


I'm at work and my car is in the garage at home right now but I'm going to see which IC pump I have on the car now and I'll report back later today.

Assuming I replace the pump what other fluids do I need to buy for that system?


Sorry I'm only smart enough to be very dangerous lol.

 

if you got the pump from us it is the updated one, sending you an email now

 

Thanks Rob! I sent you a message back and I'll get you those pics tomorrow morning.

 

Quick update here guys:

I have the 010 P/N IC pump on the car already!!! Is it possible that that pump is bad or knowing that it's the correct newer model pump is that pump okay then?