Has anyone else experienced EGR valve problems with their SRT-6? I just
had to put mine in the shop due to a malfunction on this unit. After having
a go with an M3 coming out of Cartersville, Ga. last Sunday evening, I
noticed that when I'd step down on the gas pedal, the engine would respond by bogging out, very much like a car with a plugged catalytic converter. Seems the EGR programming became "confused" around 123 mph, and
started behaving badly. The problem wasn't noticeable unless you mashed
the gas. Otherwise the car drove just fine. Dealer service center replaced
the EGR valve and reset the control system. All appears fine now.

Coyote

 

being a prior '02 M3 owner... how did you do against it? i would think the s/c would have the advantage on the freeway.

 

From a dead stop, at a stop light, we both punched down hard with the
green. Perhaps I was a little quicker out of the hole, or the crossfire just
has better launch capability, but I lead him by a half-car length until we
backed off at about 125. Nice smooth four-lane (two each direction) with
a broad sweeping curve to the left, on U.S. Highway 41.

Coyote

 

Also, it should be noted that after replacing the EGR valve, the car seems
quite a bit more responsive. Just barely pressing on the gas pedal seems
to make the car want to jump up and go...

Coyote

 

Right on!

Was it 1/2 a car length advantage the entire time up to 125 mph?

Does you SRT feel faster with the EGR fixed at full throttle now, or just on tip-in...I wasn't sure what you meant with the bog down comment you made when you said "mash the gas"?

 

1/2 car advantage from shortly after the start to the finish.
What was meant was this, when I would push the throttle down to between
3/4 and full press, the tranny would kick down, but the engine would just
go flat, like it wasn't getting any air, or like it wasn't able to exhaust and
back pressure was building up.

Coyote

 

my 02' M3 6 speed ran 13.0's at the track. i have a video run in my gallery (can't view now ).

curious ~ what is the best 1/4 mile time out of an srt 6?

 

I am going to start a new thread on this...

 

Replied in another thread but I have run consistent 13.0's at the track (stock). I believe 12.8 is the best I have seen for an stock SLK32.

 

Oh M'god! I've been having such trouble with bogging! Around 40 MPH I mash the pedal & it lays there!!! Pretty consistently too. Also, when it shifts into 2nd gear from a moderate speed it feels like it skips a beat similar to a clogged fuel injector but only one stutter per occasion... As soon as I can make time I'm going to take it in. That's one thing I'll mention for sure!!! Thanks!

 

Coyote, I'm still trying to picture you telling the Chrysler service director." Yea, it just started to act up after I reached a "buck & a quarter". I would have loved to have seen his expression.

 

Get it in the shop soon. This problem can lead to dangerous conditions
when you are pulling into traffic or making lane changes to get around
the slow moving idiot in the left lane on the highway.

BTW, the problem remains and the car was returned to the shop yesterday
morning. As it turns out, though I was told by the service manager that the EGR valve had been replaced, it had not. All that was done was to
reset the computer code.

One thing I did notice while driving on Monday, I was traveling down the
interstate highway, when I noticed a "bump", kinda like the tranny was
downshifting (which it had not). At that point, I noticed the problem with
the engine bogging down while trying to accelerate. A couple of miles
down the road, I felt another "bump", and the ability to accelerate quickly
was restored. Not too long after that, another "bump" and engine
bogging returned.

It seems to me that the programming for the actuator in the EGR system
is opening and closing the valve without regard to the current
temperature in the combustion chamber. Could this merely be a
programming bug? Or is the sensor gone flakey?

BTW, I've yet to experience this problem from a dead start, such as after
having stopped for a traffic light. The problem does return after a couple
of miles of driving, or very shortly after having gone through a quick
acceleration phase. Further, I now have a clue as to when the problem
is in force, as each problem phase or return to power is preceded by
a "bump" that feels like a one gear kickdown by the tranny.

BTW, does anyone else have the experience that it takes the service
department at their dealer at least three visits to fix any particular
issue? It seems like every problem I've had, few though they have been,
has taken 3 visits (leaving the car with them for multiple days each time)
to achieve problem resolution. Is this unusual or the norm?

Coyote

 

I've been having the same problems for a very long time and it still hasn't been fixed. I'd leave the car for a maximum of 3 days, running back and forth to the dealership and still "nothing is wrong". I've had the car about 1 1/2 yrs. I'm going to have to print these threads out and take it into the dealership. Those basta*ds are either incapable or lazy.

 

That 'bump' is exactly what I feel! Often!
P.S. What state are you in?

 

I'm in Georgia, just a bit northwest of Atlanta.

I had a talk with the shop forman today, took him for a second test drive
during which I was able to demonstrate the problem in action. He had been
in touch with "Star" which had advised him that the problem was
temperature related, and that similar problems had been seen elsewhere.

The nature of the problem, as stated, is that a temperature slightly above
normal will result in a failure of the supercharger unit to engage. The
answer is to replace the water pump.

Funny, now that it looks like a cooling problem (the temp gauge never
showed one), the thing that popped into my head was that the problem
didn't show up until shortly after I had the E19 service performed. I
looked at the service ticket to get the date when the E19 service was
completed and it matches quite nicely with the date when I first noticed
the problem. The shop foreman, however, does not believe there is
a connection between the two events. Even though they seem to
be related by timing and the system involved.

As it stands, the shop foreman is to consult again with "Star" with the
possibility that the answer will be to replace the water pump. I just
want to know... why can't they back out the E19 related change and
see if the problem goes away. I had seen none of the temperature
related problems noted, and the car ran great. Maybe I'll push this
when I talk with the shop foreman again tomorrow. I wonder what
the odds are that I can get a recall change reversed?

Coyote

 

I have the same problem with lunging forward and bogging when floored without the E19 being replaced. I pick up my car for the 2nd time this week today & they haven't been able to notice the problem on a test drive or see any problem when hooked up to diagnostic equipment. I'm at a loss. I will mention the temperature issue & see if they've heard of anything like it (probably not). Thanks for all the info on this thread. Collectively, I think we'll figure it out.

 

For you folks experiencing this problem, what mileage do you have
on the dial? I'm at a bit over 26,000 miles.

Coyote

 

Update: Problem solved!
About 3 weeks ago, the shop foreman at the dealership told me that Star
was recommending replacement of the water pump to resolve an over
temperature shutdown of the supercharger. I told him it made no sense
to me to replace the water pump, in the process tearing apart the front
of the engine. He said it didn't make sense to him either, so I told him to
talk to Star again.

Star was adamant, so we got the pump and scheduled the service. On the
day the work was scheduled, after talking again with the shop foreman and again expressing my incredulity that this would work, he called Star
again. This time, they were a little more specific in describing the
recommended service. The part to be replaced was not the main water pump, but the secondary water pump that feeds the intercooler. This
made sense!

We ordered the correct part, installed it, and viola! The supercharger
no longer fails to respond! So, if you experience this problem yourself,
have the service department replace the right water pump.

Thanks for all your support,

Coyote

 

Great story! Glad to hear the resolution has finally occurred for you.

I took a picture of this electrically operated water pump a few weeks ago when I was detailing the underneath of the engine compartment. It is found just below and right of the radiator and can be seen when the lower plastic engine compartment panel is removed.

Does anyone know exactly to check the water level in this system? I believe that it is a separate system from the engine cooling system, but am not sure.

 

Whoops, here is the pic.