Problem with Klasse SG
I washed my car about a week ago (two bucket method etc.) and waxed with Klasse AIO. The application went well and the car looked fine although I wanted a deeper shine. Yesterday I wiped the car down with Meguiar's ultimate detailer (to remove fine dust as it has been mostly sitting in garage) and applied Klasse SG with a applicator moistened with mequiar's detailer (per instructions). I noticed a bit of haze from the start but was able to buff most of it out. I do believe now that I did not give the SG enough time to dry believe I buffed it out. Now I notice some some spots (almost looks like water spots) in the roof. Its probably on other surfaces as well but easier to see there. I tried taking Detailer to it but with no effect. The Klasse instructions say to go over it again with SG if there is a problem (with no moistening of applicator). I am afraid that I am going to cause scratches by rewaxing. I was thinking about giving it another quick shot of detailer to remove dust and try the Klasse SG again. Please help advise me here. By the way I used the hand method for application.
The detailer spray may be your problem. I have used Klasse for years and never had a problem....but I immediately use the SG after the AIO. Start over with a good wash, AIO and then SG. Multiple coats of the SG will bring out the finish you desire.
And use both products very sparingly.....if you can barely see it, you are using just enough. And use water on you applicator instead of the detailer and I think you will be much more satisfied with the outcome. Good luck and you will see that the effort is worth it.
And use both products very sparingly.....if you can barely see it, you are using just enough. And use water on you applicator instead of the detailer and I think you will be much more satisfied with the outcome. Good luck and you will see that the effort is worth it.
I was thinking it was the detailer as well. I have ordered some Sonus Acrylic Spritz which is supposed to be 100% capatible with Klasse products. I was trying to avoid the work of rewashing and redoing the AIO but I know that would be the safest course. I will use water to wet the applicator this time and give it the 30 minute set time. Its confusing because the AIO basically can be wiped off immediately.
Originally Posted by danimal
The detailer spray may be your problem. I have used Klasse for years and never had a problem....but I immediately use the SG after the AIO. Start over with a good wash, AIO and then SG. Multiple coats of the SG will bring out the finish you desire.
And use both products very sparingly.....if you can barely see it, you are using just enough. And use water on you applicator instead of the detailer and I think you will be much more satisfied with the outcome. Good luck and you will see that the effort is worth it.
And use both products very sparingly.....if you can barely see it, you are using just enough. And use water on you applicator instead of the detailer and I think you will be much more satisfied with the outcome. Good luck and you will see that the effort is worth it.
Danimal is correct......you will get better results using water instead of detailing spray to moisten the applicator.
Thank you. I guess I will wait for a nice day to start the process over. The Klasse instructions say that a detailer can be used. I will use the water next time and allow more drying time. I just hate to have my baby sit there with spots. They are small though and only noticeble under the right light but I know they are there! Am I OCD or what!!!
I have been using the Sonus products for over a year. On my black SRT it has really made a difference. Their swirlbuster is great using a Porter Cable orbital and the Spritz is easy to use. I always seal after I wax with Acrylic Glanz. That product really makes the paint "pop".
Originally Posted by Utah12
I was thinking it was the detailer as well. I have ordered some Sonus Acrylic Spritz which is supposed to be 100% capatible with Klasse products. I was trying to avoid the work of rewashing and redoing the AIO but I know that would be the safest course. I will use water to wet the applicator this time and give it the 30 minute set time. Its confusing because the AIO basically can be wiped off immediately.
Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer is the finest quick detailer on the market today - if you're looking to remove dust and fingerprints and leave behind a slick finish with incredible water repelling properties. But Meguiar's does not recommend it as a clay lubricant and I'm willing to bet it was the wrong choice to use with the Klasse products as a "surface prep". I would highly recommend using it as intended once you get your issues sorted with the spotting, but unfortunately that may require a reapplication of the AIO to strip things down. I will also add, however, that if you think you may not have let the SG dry long enough before removal then most likely you did not.
As for being confused about one product being wiped off immediately (AIO) and the other needing a drying time (SG), that's perfectly natural as the AIO is primarily a chemical cleaner and nothing extra is really gained by allowing it to dry. In fact, allowing to dry will result in you having one hell of a time trying to remove it. As a general rule you don't want to allow any cleaners or polishes to dry on the finish - do the work with them as instructed and remove. About the only exception is a cleaner wax, but that's a totally different animal. Almost all waxes and sealants require time to dry and bond to the surface before wiping off the dried excess. Failing to do so will usually result in streaking or difficulty in removal. P21S is one of the exceptions to this rule.
Lastly, if you are even concerned about putting scratches in your finish by simply waxing the car, you're either overly concerned or you're doing it wrong. A clean, soft foam applicator will not scratch the paint while applying wax, and the wax certainly won't either. Nor will a clean microfiber towel for removal, as long as you aren't scrubbing the wax off or repeatedly buffing the paint after removing the wax. There is nothing to be gained by repeated buffing of the area - once the wax is off, it's off. Move on.
As for being confused about one product being wiped off immediately (AIO) and the other needing a drying time (SG), that's perfectly natural as the AIO is primarily a chemical cleaner and nothing extra is really gained by allowing it to dry. In fact, allowing to dry will result in you having one hell of a time trying to remove it. As a general rule you don't want to allow any cleaners or polishes to dry on the finish - do the work with them as instructed and remove. About the only exception is a cleaner wax, but that's a totally different animal. Almost all waxes and sealants require time to dry and bond to the surface before wiping off the dried excess. Failing to do so will usually result in streaking or difficulty in removal. P21S is one of the exceptions to this rule.
Lastly, if you are even concerned about putting scratches in your finish by simply waxing the car, you're either overly concerned or you're doing it wrong. A clean, soft foam applicator will not scratch the paint while applying wax, and the wax certainly won't either. Nor will a clean microfiber towel for removal, as long as you aren't scrubbing the wax off or repeatedly buffing the paint after removing the wax. There is nothing to be gained by repeated buffing of the area - once the wax is off, it's off. Move on.
Mike:
Everything you said makes sense to me. I guess it was my 'learning curve'. I did use microfiber although I was not impressed with either the applicator or polish rags that came with the kit. The rags seemed to shed fibers which proved to be annoying. I have ordered some cloths from Pakshak that have no edging and are recommended for waxing and polishing. I have also ordered what appear to be good applicators from Adams. I spent about $100 on these all together but i think they will be worth it and improvements over what I used. I now 'understand' the process much better and I don't see any signs of scratching so I think to rip down the finish and start over with AIO is the best choice. I love this forum and all the great advice that I get here from all the wonderful members. Oh and did I mention I LOVE MY CROSSFIRE!!!!
Everything you said makes sense to me. I guess it was my 'learning curve'. I did use microfiber although I was not impressed with either the applicator or polish rags that came with the kit. The rags seemed to shed fibers which proved to be annoying. I have ordered some cloths from Pakshak that have no edging and are recommended for waxing and polishing. I have also ordered what appear to be good applicators from Adams. I spent about $100 on these all together but i think they will be worth it and improvements over what I used. I now 'understand' the process much better and I don't see any signs of scratching so I think to rip down the finish and start over with AIO is the best choice. I love this forum and all the great advice that I get here from all the wonderful members. Oh and did I mention I LOVE MY CROSSFIRE!!!!
I have a lot to learn about this washing and waxing skill, does the 2 bucket method really make a difference? I usually just use one bucket.utah12 where abouts do you live in utah?
I started over with a good two bucket wash and a nice soft MF dry followed by Klasse AIO. I followed with SG and every thing seemed to be going well. A nice deep mirror finish. But in a different angle small spots again. I tried removing them in a test with AIO but it doesn't touch them/ Are these just water spots from hard water used in washing? If so how do I remove them? I don't seem to see any swirls or scratches just these darn spots. I can actually feel them as I run my hand across the wax job. Please help!!!
Depressed in Utah
Depressed in Utah
Sounds like it is time to start fresh.
Strip the wax/polish and clay bar to remove the water spots.
coat again with your favorite wax/polish.
I used to use Klasse but found Zaino works far better. I felt Klasse was like applying floor wax. (which I bet is not far from reality, it even smells like "mop n glo")
Strip the wax/polish and clay bar to remove the water spots.
coat again with your favorite wax/polish.
I used to use Klasse but found Zaino works far better. I felt Klasse was like applying floor wax. (which I bet is not far from reality, it even smells like "mop n glo")
It was a nasty day for me yesterday worked on the Crossfire's finish for about six hours straight. I tried removing the spots with dawn detergent but no dice. I didn't know (might still not) if its a hard water problem or a Klasse SG. I tried removing the spots as I saw on another forum by spritzing the surface with a 4:1 Water/SG mist but no effect. By this time I had some very fine scatches into the surface of the hood (buffing it too hard to remove spots). What a horrible feeling. I got up this morning and tried one last idea before Claying. I had some swissvax cleaner/wax prep and I tried it. Spots went away!!! I followed with a coat of Klasse AIO for protection.
Does anyone know what happened here? I want to a sealer over the AIO but I am never going to SG again. Any ideas on a quality safe sealant that I won't have these issues with? Help please!!
Does anyone know what happened here? I want to a sealer over the AIO but I am never going to SG again. Any ideas on a quality safe sealant that I won't have these issues with? Help please!!
I would still strip that Klasse. It is just a polish and you want a sealant to seal to the paint not be on top of polish.
Zaino. Use the Z-2 Pro with ZFX additive. (also if you have leather their leathe stuff smells great ands works very well)
This 8 oz bottle will do your car at least 8 times. Use very sparingly. Just when you think you have it right use less.
As a second choice the stuff (pro paint sealant) at www.perfectautofinish.com
I have tried just about all of waxes/polish and these two would be my choices for sealants/polishes.
Zaino. Use the Z-2 Pro with ZFX additive. (also if you have leather their leathe stuff smells great ands works very well)
This 8 oz bottle will do your car at least 8 times. Use very sparingly. Just when you think you have it right use less.
As a second choice the stuff (pro paint sealant) at www.perfectautofinish.com
I have tried just about all of waxes/polish and these two would be my choices for sealants/polishes.
Last edited by 70GT6; May 4, 2008 at 04:09 PM.
Originally Posted by Utah12
Bump for sealant I can use over Klasse AIO.


