The main reason to use the PC or similar unit is that they are orbital, as a result far less likely to burn the paint for someone less experienced.

I don't think there is an orbital air tool. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

 

While it is possible with some old school carnauba waxes to impart a bit of a yellowing tinge to lighter colored vehicles if you "overwax", you'd have to be waxing almost weekly in order for that to happen. Twice a year, especially on a daily driver, isn't really sufficient for overall protection. Waxes and even synthetic sealants are sacrificial barriers that break down over time and their lifespan is impacted by exposure - regular, heavy rain will quickly degrade any wax or sealant, road salt will kill it in no time. Anyone who tells you that their wax lasts a whole year is just blowing smoke. And don't take "beading" as a sign of protection - it's nothing more than a function of surface tension, and just because something is on the paint that causes water to bead that doesn't automatically equate to "protection". I can buff out a car with a compound and polish and shoot water onto it and that water will bead like crazy - but there is zero protection.

Keep your car clean, wax it 4 times a year, and use a quick detail spray between washings to remove light dust and fingerprints. Use a spray wax between proper wax jobs too, especially just after washing, to help keep the shine up to a max level.

The Porter Cable, especially the newer 7424XP, is a fantastic tool for the enthusiast or weekend warrior. The Griot's 6" buffer and Meguiar's G110v2 are equally great tools - easy to use, easy to learn, and highly effective while providing a huge safety factor.

Actually, Karl, pneumatic DA sanders commonly used in the autobody industry can be used as a polishing tool since they generally utilize a velcro backing plate to accommodate the sanding media and so will equally accept a foam polishing pad. But, and this is critical, they are grossly lacking in torque, so as soon as you start to put some pressure on them they give up. And you generally need that pressure when polishing pad, while you absolutely do NOT when sanding paint. These air powered DA tools can make wax application with a finishing pad a snap, but you've got to have a lot of air to keep them running almost non stop for several minutes at a time.

Michael, pick up one of the above mentioned electric DA buffers and you'll never look back. And for the very hard paint found on the Crossfire (brace yourself, shameless plug coming.......) might I suggest Meguiar's new DA Microfiber Correction System? We (yes, we - I work for Meguiar's in case you didn't know) just released this system last month and it's making huge waves in the detailing world. It will let you get near rotary results but with the safety of DA use. Plenty of info on our forum at meguiarsonline.com, or I can expand on it more for those who'd rather learn about it here instead. I'm just trying to be sensitive about coming across like I'm just shilling here.

 

What's wrong with a bit of soft sell on your products? We appreciate the knowledge you hand out, so go ahead.

 

Mike and Karl,

I appreciate the feedback. I have never owned another car that was worth bothering with these details. I am glad to get information on the products you are sold on. You can't help working for a company you are proud to be associated with.

Another question I have regards other vehicles. I do have several mid-60's MOPARs, and as I manage to get paint on, can I use the same information on older technology paint? None of those cars got clear-coats, and none of mine will.

Again, thanks for any information offered!

Michael

 

The processes are essentially the same, but single stage paint can behave a bit differently than a modern clear coat.

First, the obvious part is that you can see paint transfer onto an applicator pad when using something even as mild as a cleaner wax - if your car is black, the applicator will turn black, a red car will turn the applicator red, etc. Perfectly normal, and the only reason you don't see this on a modern car is because the trace amount of paint you're removing is clear.

Second, single stage paints tend to be more worker, or softer, or more delicate, or however you want to phrase it, than a modern catalyzed clear coat is. This means you can often use less aggressive products to correct defects. Just keep in mind that if you're dealing with original, old clear coat and you don't know the full history of that car, the paint could be very thin in spots. Even if it looks really good, that thinness can bite you when you least expect it. Be careful around raised body lines, panel edges, etc.

Third, single stage paints love products with a lot of polishing oils in them, especially the darker colors. A light cleaner/polish like M80 Speed Glaze from our Pro Line is incredible on dark single stage, whether you're working by hand or with a D/A. The added depth and gloss provided by this type of product can really make those darker colors look deep and wet. Something like M07 Show Car Glaze if the finish is swirl free works great too. You can finish off with any wax or sealant you like after that.

In the end, it all depends on what you want out of the finish (daily driver, show car, weekend toy, full concours prep, etc), how much time you're willing to devote to the process, and what your skill level is.

 

Thanks Mike in Orange! Good information!

 

Mike, if you would not mind imparting some knowledge (and rough pricing) on the new system, I know I would appreciate it. TIA

 

Mike,

Thanks again for the information regarding the non-Crossfires. The Darts and Barracudas are mostly solid colors, but a couple are metallic. I'll probably use a catalyzed acrylic enamel, similar to what was put on those cars in the 60's. I have shot a couple, but have a lot to learn. Only the Crossfire is black, and one black car will be enough work for me!

Michael

 

Well, if you're into DA polishing at all but have struggled to remove defects from really hard paint, this system sort of bridges the gap between the DA and rotary buffers, but retains the safety level inherent in the DA. Rather than using a series of foam buffing pads, we've come up with a pair of pads that utilize a foam backing with a microfiber pile surface, and a pair of liquids to work in conjunction with them. It's very straightforward - a cutting compound used with a cutting pad, a finishing wax used with a finishing pad. That's it. It's fine tuned to work at 4800 opm for cutting and 3800 opm for finishing, and the system loves hard paint! It works great on our buffer (Meguiar's G110v2) as well as the Porter Cable and Griot's tool. It can be used on the Flex 3401 but that's a forced rotation tool, not a DA, so it's overly aggressive and tends to haze the paint pretty badly. It is definitely NOT a rotary system though!! The pads are machine washable and you can expect a very long life out of them - like 100 uses or so!

Key to using the system is to use a very small amount of product - like 3 or 4 drops of product for each section one the cutting pad is primed. But you also have to clean the pads with a pad brush after every section. It's critical, but not at all the time consumer you might think. If you have access to compressed air, all the better. Wipe off of both liquids is insanely easy (the finishing wax will probably the single easiest wipe off product you've ever used) and there is no dust, no sling. Pricing is very competitive too, especially when you consider the life expectancy of the pads and small amount of product you use.

I've got a full write up on using the system at Using Meguiar's D/A Microfiber Correction System - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online and there are plenty of independent reviews on the system both on our forum and autogeek.net and truthindetailing.com

 

Oh the joys of keeping a black car. I've only had one black car in my life time and I will have had only one black car in my life time. They do look great when they are clean and spotless, but I just don't have the time to keep one up the way it should be. I'll take my little white car all day long. Cheers

 

Turtle Wax "Black Box" is a must buy! thanks for the tips and advice you guys are the best! JR

 

Bout time to buff the winter off the car, checking for new product and seen this thread. Any places have a package deal for the new meguiars system? I have some big lake country pads but looks like these new ones were designed for the system and I could use some smaller ones for certain parts of the car anyway. Would really like to give this a try as the ultimate compound couldn't quite get a couple spots that I have (crazy demon bird purple **** marks) if not just any place to find all the pieces, apparently I'm blind because I can't seem to find them. Thanks!

 

Airscape, if you're talking about the Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction System you should check out either autogeek.net, autodetailingsolutions.com or detailing.com - all three carry the whole system and all three have great pricing.

For use with a typical DA buffer you'll want the correct backing plate to start (it's pretty important, actually) so pick up Meguiar's part number W67DA. You'll also want a two pack of DMC5 cutting discs and DMF5 finishing discs, then a 16 oz bottle each of D300 DA Microfiber Compound and D301 DA Microfiber Finishing Wax. A good pad brush is critical as cleaning the pads after every single pass is critical And yes, just a 16 oz bottle of each is more than sufficient to correct your own car a few times - a very small amount of product goes a very, very long way.

 

Thanks Mike! Gonna pick up a pack from autogeek. You have pointed me in the right direction every year, can't wait to get the xfire swirl free again. Also interested to see what the new smells are like lol, they are always so good.

Not to hijack the thread further but how long should it take to do the whole process? I'm getting a bit quicker but it is still basically a full day job with wash, clay, polish and wax. Maybe I am just overdoing it but I know I could be doing something better / more efficiently.

 

That all depends on how bad the defects are to start with, what your skill level is like, and what your ultimate expectations are. When we did Justin's Alabaster Crossfire at our offices a couple of years back we knocked it out in about 3 hours (6 man hours total) but that was me with a high speed rotary and him following with a DA and M205. When I picked up my 2005 Limited Roadster brand spanking new in 2007 the paint was a mess and I put...... wait for it...... 20 hours of rotary work into it over a period of several weeks to get the paint where I wanted it. Yes, 20 hours.

So, how long will it take you? Somewhere between 2 and 10 hours most likely. Depends on all of those aforementioned variables.

Read through the write up on our forum before you use the system - it will save you a bunch on the learning curve. Using Meguiar's D/A Microfiber Correction System - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

From that same thread, here are a few before and after shots of a black SL 55 AMG I buffed out for a customer using this system:

This is what the paint looked like everywhere on the car - just a mess:


And this was about 6 hours later - two steps, done.

 

Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowlege. I don't feel so inept now . I had seen the alabaster thread when it was started and after a 12 hour session on my ride I figured I was doing something way wrong as far as speed goes. I have only done the whole process about 4 times now but I have it down fairly well. My swirls are nowhere near that SL55 anymore, maybe right after I got it. Now I would say just the big outer rings are starting to form. She lives outside and gets washed way more frequently than I would like but I am more than pleased with how long the ultimate compound and #26 wax keep it looking great. My biggest issues now are the wheel wells and other low sections that get all the rocks and dirt flung on them. I think there are just to many bumps and scratches at this point to get those sections 100% after 55k with the tools I have. There are a couple deep scratches here and there that I just have to live with as well. When it's all shined up though I am probably the only one that can really pick them all out easily so can't complain too much. Thanks again!