Its been about 3k miles since my 7k oil change and the high oil warning popped up... It's been getting cold around here, so i figured thats what caused it. I picked up a siphon pump and started removing some oil. I pumped out nearly a quart and after running for 5 min, i'm still showing about 2mm above the maximum mark on the dipstick.

Now a quart doesn't exactly seem trivial, do you think the dealership totally screwed up the oil amount?

I'm a little wary of removing any more. I'll see if this solves the warning chime.

Apparently Park Dodge in Lexington Park MD has ONE person checked out to work on crossfires btw...

 

I would think that if the dealership had overfilled the oil by more than a quart, the high indicator should have come on well before 3K miles. Look at your invoice and see how much they say they put in. What does the oil that you removed look like? Does it look like fresh oil, or is it milky/cloudy or thinner than it should be?

 

Dealer maintenance invoice doesn't explicitly state the amount in, but under qty for the oil, it shows 9... which I assume is 9 qt. Which may explain a little over.

The oil looks normal for having a few miles on it. Though this is the first car i've had synthetic in. It was dark, no signs of water. I took it for a drive and upon return, the reading is still about 2mm above max.

Kind of a mystery why the high oil light went on only recently.

 

Check the speedometer's onboard oil level monitor, it will tell you how much oil it thinks it has.

I olny go by the dip stick, it seem the oil level monitor is a bit off sometimes.

9 qrts is way to many, I can only drain 7 from the pan, and I'm assuming there is a quart hidding in the block and oil filter area.

 

Honestly, I think you should just take it back to the dealer.

 

Is the oil diluted? Does it smell like gas? Repeated cold starts and short distance driving???

 

The manual say 8.5 quarts.
I drained 8 out using a 'Topsider' a couple of weeks ago.

 

I did an oil change over the weekend and I believe I can shed some light on the subject. I discovered that if you do an oil change in the conventional way -- drain the oil, replace the filter, refill the oil -- you will have a problem. When you un-screw the filter housing, it will release almost a quart of oil back into the oil pan! If you don't account for this you will be over-filled if you put 8 quarts back in.

So, to make sure you get all the old oil out, do it like this:

1. Unscrew oil filter housing to break the seal.
2. Drain the oil.
3. Replace the filter.
4. Replace the oil.

 

That makes total sense !!!

 

Thanks for the input, sorry I haven't commented, I've been on travel.

Yes, I have recently moved to a location 5 minutes from my work as opposed to 20 min drive. And with winter, yes cold starts. The oil is fumey... Is there a way to prevent this?

 

There is another thing that could be causing light to come on:

The oil filter assembly uses a center tube that the filter element fits over. The pipe has several o-rings fitted into grooves along its length, if one of these o-rings is missing, cut or leaking then the oil that should be passing through the filter winds up in the oil pan and the light comes on.

The way to tell if the problem is in the filter is to listen to the motor when you start it after it has set overnight, if you hear a rattle noise from the engine's bearing or valve then the problem is in the oil filter.

I know of this because my local dealer, in Thousand Oaks, left a o-ring off of the pipe and then my light started coming on. His techs are so inept that they said there was nothing wrong when I took the car back. So I drained to oil and found 8 quarts in the pan, when I removed the filter there was no oil in it and an o-ring missing.

Regards.