who is hddp?

 

Never heard of 'em...

 

I personally know nothing about nitrous setups, so I'm looking on with interest.

 

The forums own little Hiltler

 

i would if my camera wasn't pos., and what you want pictures of so i know though. there really isn't much to see my bottles hidden under the flap in trunk right up as far as possible out of sight cause i have a convertible with the thing you pull down so the top goes up and down. lines are run under engine cover and two solenoids is all you really see but you even have to look twice to see them. my dealership doesn't even know, still got warranty. anything ever happens pull it off and nobody even knew, i ran it on my srt-4 also just gotta be done right and tuned right.

 

how are you manageing the ecu, are you using the knock sensors or a separate computer to pull timing?

 

i am just using the zex bolt on kit it. It is only a 75 shot so only 2 degrees is recommended to set back, it is not even required for such a small shot , but the stock ecu actually pulls timing on its own when spraying, with a 75 shot no sepreate computer or knock sensor is needed. the stock ecu will be fine with such a small shot if going to a higher shot i would look into finding a system to retard the timing a little but pointless with my setup, it has all been professionally installed by a speed shop and tested and works great. the kit comes with a fuel controller also, it is fool proof to just bolt on and go.

 

zex kit #82021 look it up, also zex helped me out with any questions i had, i have 6 speed so i was concerned with traction control engaging while spraying and they informed me that it would just pull more timing if it did engage but i decided to go with traction control window switch and i just spray from second gear on nothing in first or traction control comes on and its pointless might as well just hook up and then spray plus i race from a roll alot unless im at the track.

 

it would really be interesting to see how yourr car peforms on a dyno. I bet the dyno curve is bouncing all over the place. any chance you can do a dyno on nitrous to comfirm this? would be very benifitial to the forums fact book!

 

why would it be bouncing all over the place? it is the same kit that was on my srt-4 and that was dynoed and was perfectly fine same guys did it. the crossfire cannot be fully dynoed at this time because of the traction control, but we did pull fuses for esp and get a 5k rev limit just to be sure and everything was perfect curves were very steady as ever and climbing fine, everything works great constant pull and the dyno was plenty enough satisfaction for me to spray, i had a 72whp gain and 79 ft. lbs. torque gain at 5k. af was good, trust me man everything is gravy don't know what your so scared of i haven't had problems with two vehicles now and once problem with dynos is solved i will throw it back on for full dyno numbers, i am in the works of single turbo kit but working on tuning now with a place in upstate new york before we go ahead and do it. really don't know why you doubt those curves power curves though?

 

I don't think anyone here is doubting your numbers, but I do think that you just gave somebody a woody

 

lol, any time someone says "Trust Me" that's when I turn and run.

I'm afraid of burning up an $8,000 engine. have you installed cooler plugs or are you running stock ones?

I can't do this until I mount an A/F gauge, otherwise it's too dangerous and I don't have time right now for this mod yet.


As for getting proper dyno run you need an AWD dyno, the front wheels only have to spin up to 15mph to get full redline runs, I've seen some hillbilly ,jack up the front of his crossfire and had two friends spin the wheels by hand while doing a pull, it worked also.. Can you post a picture of your dyno charts?

 

i actually have heard that about the dyno, so do the front wheels have to spin the same speed or what?, and how would you really power the wheels to spin 15 mph, any ideas will help cause thats easier than trying to beat the traction control in the ecu or any other way to get a good dyno run, i went one plug cooler, and yes i highly recommend the af gauge but do not get one of those gauges with the little light that goes back and forth from lean and starch and all that cause they suck and are innacurate. get a wideband made from PLX in my opinion.

 

i hear ya, cheap power and basically the only option at the time, i have cold air intake, underdrive pulleys, true dual exhaust, and a tune for most the time then when needed i spray. i try not to alot but i hear ya on that woody it'll do that, lol