I saved this link - THX!!!

 

Thank you so much!

 

I bought the screws mentionned a few post backs from fastener express and while applying the torque at 48 inch/pound the head broke. It almost feels like the screws are too long and the head is not even pushing on the actual breather itself.

 

And again, this is why I buy from Rob at Needswings. I've never had a problem with anything he sold me.
But you saved enough money to make it all worth it, right?

 

Did you make sure they were not too long?
Someone said it was best to clean out the tapped holes before inserting the screws because of all the crap that fell down the holes when cleaning off the old RTV, makes sense to me.

 

I'm the one who posted about Fastener Express screws. The lengths of mine (16 mm) seemed fine. I didn't use a torque wrench but just went with "snug."

To argue that if you didn't buy them from one particular guy means you got junk is ridiculous.

 

I was in the wrong. Everything is fine now. Once the RTV was settled, I unscrewed the bolts and cleaned each area of any excess RTV (around the holes). Tightened in new bolts 'snugly' and voila. Hopefully no leaks.

After doing it though I think I would recommend the steel bolts with a snug fit and some loctite. It would be less of a headache and it wouldn't move.

The torque figure at the beginning of this thread are too high. I wasted my money on a torque wrench and I broke a bolt.

It could also be that I'm learning and not the most handy or the bolts are weak.

 

The torque values listed above are the recommended values for the crankcase breather covers (5-6 N-m) and the valve covers (10 N-m). The 5-6 N-m would equate to 44-53 in-lbs. So the 48 in-lbs you used should have been good. Possibility of weak material, inaccurate torque wrench, or any other factor. I took the extra precaution and instead of using NEW aluminum screws (and the small aluminum screws are a 1x use only), I used corrosion-coated (marine grade) steel screws. Achieving the recommended assembly torque was no issue.

Glad everything turned out okay for you. (Note: I switched to the corrosion-coated, steel screws after I sheared the head off a new aluminum screw! Been There; Done That!)

 

You make me want to do it. I'm not sure about these screws.

 

Send me a PM with your "snail mail" address and I'll send you some corrosion-coated screws (with some spares) for you to consider using. IF you replace the small screws one at a time, which is what I did to replace some SS screws I bought at Lowe's, you should be okay w/o any issues. It worked for me and so far no signs of any leakage after 7+ years.

Merry Christmas, Dennis E.

 

I removed the neck extension for the oil cap but I can't find any gasket for the cap? Do you guys know if there's a gasket there?

 

The gasket is identical to the one under the oil filler cap.
There is a picture somewhere in a NeedsWing blurb or post.

 

I got it. I should have looked at the diagram.

 

HI, Just checked, and this definitely fits SRT6.

thanks

 

This thread is a little dated, but wanted to share my findings this morning with the Forum. I took the airbox off the engine this morning and started checking the valve cover screws (large size) for proper tightening torque. I found only 1 screw still torqued to the recommended value of 10 N-m. All the other screws were somewhat loose and were tightened to the proper torque. I do still have 4 screws along the bottom of the valve covers (3 on PS rear; 1 on DS rear). Can't remember how I got to these before but it will come to me. I didn't remove the coil packs before when I did this task. Also didn't check the crankcase breather cover screws (small ones) for proper torque setting of 5-6 N-m but will do so later after weather clears up. (Note: I have corrosion resistant coated steel screws installed on the crankcase breather covers, so can re-torque , if required.). I recommended several years ago to check the torque holding settings on the valve cover screws and it's been probably 4-5 years since I did this task. I still think it is a good PM task to execute periodically.

Before I re-installed the airbox, I sprayed some silicone lubricant on a paper towel & wiped off the "rubber baby buggy bumpers" that secure the airbox. I also wiped the airbox rubber seal that fits over the throttle body at the rear of the motor. Just makes install & removal later on much easier.

 

New CF member here , but not new to engines
Hope you're not ignoring post 46 related to over use of silicone for gaskets .
I would not use the type of silicone shown for these covers but rather a product used for sealing metal to metal high temp applications which if applied properly will not squeeze out beyond its needs . I've used it for years assembling Rotax engines & have also seen a silicone gob being removed from an oil pump intake having ruined an engine .
==

 

Do a site research about the leaking valve covers, lots to read, you'll see it is a little different from general valve cover leaks. It uses a certain goop stuff that must be applied IAW (in accordance with) a specific way or leak will reappear. Also, the posts give certain warnings about tightening/replacing the low torque bolts (the valve covers are a softer material as well).


.

 

I do not see why this cannot be used, it is sensor safe and basically the same material. The poster has experience with it as well.

 

I would agree. Nothing like 1st hand experience for us to learn from. Actually, the Ultimate Grey product listed in his original Amazon Link is the gasket maker/sealer version I used but was sourced from Permatex instead of J-B Weld.

 

Thankyou , I have read the thread .
If for some reason the covers are not flat , or just to check , I would carefully adhere some 320 sandpaper to a flat substrate w/ spray adhesive & carefully clean up any surface discrepancies . I can't emphasize enough the risks using an over abundance of silicone & the very real issue of it getting into the oil galleries .