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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission and DifferentialPost questions here that have to do with the engine, cooling system, air intake, exhaust, Transmission and Differential
What does this indicate?
It says in the drivers manual that I can drive as long as the car runs normally. I will check it at the dealers, when they have the time, but as they are approx 30 mins drive from my place I am just wondering if I can drive
First of all, if you take the car to a dealer, you may as well sell the car - they are not going to fix it, but they will cost you a lot of money. Find a local garage you trust, best would be one known for Mercedes or German experience but a lot of things about the car don't really require it. I gotta tell ya, if you are one who goes to a dealer at the drop of a hat - you bought the WRONG car! See my sigline - nuff said.
Second, the Check Engine light means somethign very simple: The ECM has detected a sensor reading that is out of range. The only way to respond to this is to read the code or get someone to read the code.
Most auto parts stores will read codes for free, get the code(s) and come back here and post them, we will take it from there. The codes from the check engine light can be frustrating to deal with, and other times, can be super easy to deal with. Those of us who have been here for years actually have seen most of the common codes the car will throw, and frankly, we often know what it is just based on the code. (Our cars are kinda predictable!)
Better yet, go get a code reader, I like the BOSCH OBD 1100 - it is super easy to use. There are better scanners, but if you are not a big "tech" guy, there is no need to buy a better one. I've used my '1100 several times on my car and truck - love it as I hate being dependent on a garage or parts store for 'knowledge'.
Get the codes, come back here, post them - and we can probably help. And yes, if the car is running fine, don't worry about it. With that light on, you can't pass an emissions test, but other than that, you are fine - if the car runs fine and the temperature gauge is normal, you are fine.
I have a code reader which stays connected to your OBDII port and constantly scans for codes while providing on screen info all the time
It's about $89 on
In the gas filler tube there is a line out to a recovery tank for vapors in the fuel tank. I notice lots of people "topping" thier tanks to try to get as much fuel into the tank as they can. This now allows liquid fuel to head to the vapor recovery tank which clogs and fills this tank with gasoline insted of fumes. This in addition to a loose fuel cap may be the problem for this code.
In the fuel filler tube, there is just a valve that seals the system until fuel opens it when refilling. There is also a valve at the bottom of the fuel fill tube that stops the overfilling of the gas tank, there is no airline in this area.
The fuel fumes are allowed out by a solenoid to the Evap canister.
If either of these valves fail then they could cause trouble.
Last edited by onehundred80; May 8, 2020 at 09:54 AM.
OK, I have a couple questions I cannot answer. When I operate my innova OBD reader on my 08, it comes up (accessing but before finishing reading) something 2000. I see the OBD ultragauge mentions ( Keyword Protocol 2000 ), and that it reads 'special functions'? Does whatever reads a Crossfire have to have a reader that uses this KWP-2000 protocol? Second, my model year is an 08, I'm seeing there is a different one for 08 and above. Which ultragauge would read the 'special functions' in my 08 (knowing it is built from a MB SLK-320 drivetrain?), and knowing it is a model year 08 but built in 07. Def do not want to buy one for the wrong model year, its expensive if the wrong car.
Check Engine light came on, took it to O'Reilleys, got a code. Took it to my mechanic. Seems it's an air injection valve. If I lived somewhere where emissions would have to be done, I wouldn't pass. Luckily I don't. The new part is 1550.00. Certainly not in my budget. Mechanic states it will have no effect in driving the car. Dodged a bullet on that one!
Check Engine light came on, took it to O'Reilleys, got a code. Took it to my mechanic. Seems it's an air injection valve. If I lived somewhere where emissions would have to be done, I wouldn't pass. Luckily I don't. The new part is 1550.00. Certainly not in my budget. Mechanic states it will have no effect in driving the car. Dodged a bullet on that one!
Just out of interest what was the code?
Used parts are much cheaper if you had to buy one, whatever valve it was.
It is usually fractured solder on the RCM - Dj in Arizona can fix that if you send him your RCM, for around $40. When the RCM fails, the pump wont run and you get a P0401.
Of course, your 'mechanic' probably never even tried to see if closing the relay makes the pump run - he just assumed the pump was bad - and in ten years here on the forum, I can tell you that I remember maybe TWO times is was the pump, every other time, it was the RCM. Again, easy fix.
In any event,
That valve is not $1500, (well, thru Chrysler it probably is). In that case, tell your 'mechanic' to order the Bosch part for the SLK320.
If the valve-pump IS bad, even with labor, it should not go over maybe $500.
But he WAS right, if you are not doing emissions, who cares? (Well, actually, you should fix it, cause you have a CEL, if another code is generated for some other issue, you will never know, cause the light is going to be on most of the time due to the P410.)
It is usually fractured solder on the RCM - Dj in Arizona can fix that if you send him your RCM, for around $40. When the RCM fails, the pump wont run and you get a P0401.
Of course, your 'mechanic' probably never even tried to see if closing the relay makes the pump run - he just assumed the pump was bad - and in ten years here on the forum, I can tell you that I remember maybe TWO times is was the pump, every other time, it was the RCM. Again, easy fix.
In any event,
That valve is not $1500, (well, thru Chrysler it probably is). In that case, tell your 'mechanic' to order the Bosch part for the SLK320.
If the valve-pump IS bad, even with labor, it should not go over maybe $500.
But he WAS right, if you are not doing emissions, who cares? (Well, actually, you should fix it, cause you have a CEL, if another code is generated for some other issue, you will never know, cause the light is going to be on most of the time due to the P410.)
Most problems are caused by poor grounds and mainly burnt contacts on the air pump relay.