Alternator repair
It is pretty easy.. you need a couple of torx bits and small wrenches for the wiring... disconnect the battery... release the tension on the belt, take it off the alternator... undo the wiring to the alternator... remove bolts holding alternator in...remove alternator... assemble in reverse order...that is the basics of it..
I just changed it in just over an hour, but I used an air ratchet for the alternator bolts.
17mm socket to release the belt tensioner, remove the belt from the alternator, then 11mm 12 point socket for the 2 alternator bolts.
You have to jack up the front of car, remove the belly pan (8mm) and then a 12mm to remove the alternator wiring. Once the 2 alternator bolts are out, I was able to rotate the alternator to where the wiring was facing the bottom, then the wiring was accessible. Goes back in in exact reverse order.
17mm socket to release the belt tensioner, remove the belt from the alternator, then 11mm 12 point socket for the 2 alternator bolts.
You have to jack up the front of car, remove the belly pan (8mm) and then a 12mm to remove the alternator wiring. Once the 2 alternator bolts are out, I was able to rotate the alternator to where the wiring was facing the bottom, then the wiring was accessible. Goes back in in exact reverse order.
I have a question on your repair. Are you saying your the 17MM socket removed the entire tension assembly? Isn't that assembly under pressure? I figured you have to loosen that tamper proof center bolt in the tentioner to release the tention? If so, where does one get a 6 point torx/star tamper proof bit?
I ask because all we want to do is loosen the tension of the belt to check (by hand) if my alternator has a bad bearing (very noisey) In order to do that, don't I have to just loosen the tension on the belt tensioner?
Also, wasn't it difficult to put the alternator and tension back into place w/o releasing the tension first? Gee, I hope my question isn't too convoluted
I ask because all we want to do is loosen the tension of the belt to check (by hand) if my alternator has a bad bearing (very noisey) In order to do that, don't I have to just loosen the tension on the belt tensioner?
Also, wasn't it difficult to put the alternator and tension back into place w/o releasing the tension first? Gee, I hope my question isn't too convoluted
Originally Posted by Cissy
I have a question on your repair. Are you saying your the 17MM socket removed the entire tension assembly? Isn't that assembly under pressure? I figured you have to loosen that tamper proof center bolt in the tentioner to release the tention? If so, where does one get a 6 point torx/star tamper proof bit?
I ask because all we want to do is loosen the tension of the belt to check (by hand) if my alternator has a bad bearing (very noisey) In order to do that, don't I have to just loosen the tension on the belt tensioner?
Also, wasn't it difficult to put the alternator and tension back into place w/o releasing the tension first? Gee, I hope my question isn't too convoluted
I ask because all we want to do is loosen the tension of the belt to check (by hand) if my alternator has a bad bearing (very noisey) In order to do that, don't I have to just loosen the tension on the belt tensioner?
Also, wasn't it difficult to put the alternator and tension back into place w/o releasing the tension first? Gee, I hope my question isn't too convoluted
See here;https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post610912
180 is correct.... but not all tensioner assemblies have that 17mm hex on them....most will use an E-10 torx socket...it is NOT a security socket....
My factory tensioners have not had the 17mm hex on them but I did buy an aftermarket one that did....
My factory tensioners have not had the 17mm hex on them but I did buy an aftermarket one that did....
Originally Posted by MikeR
180 is correct.... but not all tensioner assemblies have that 17mm hex on them....most will use an E-10 torx socket...it is NOT a security socket....
My factory tensioners have not had the 17mm hex on them but I did buy an aftermarket one that did....
My factory tensioners have not had the 17mm hex on them but I did buy an aftermarket one that did....

I suspect he 5mm lockng pin hole is in the slot that the stop runs in, although I have not bothered to look.
You do not want the wrench to slip when removing the belt and catch your fingers.
The how to post again; https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post610912
This Torx is a tamper proof one, its a photo by James 1549/.
Last edited by onehundred80; Aug 27, 2011 at 07:37 PM.
180, there are apparently 2 tensioner assemblies for the Crossfire... the one you show and the one that I have and seen on SRT's.... the SRT tensioner has a E10 torx on the end of the pulley shaft that a 17mm nut screws down on to hold the pulley... it does not have that style secruity torx screw holding the pulley on and does not have that cast 17mm "nut" for releasing tension....
Good info for folks needing a replacement.... I dont know if they are interchangeable, but would guess they are.....
Good info for folks needing a replacement.... I dont know if they are interchangeable, but would guess they are.....
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