You guys know the drill, idles rough, won't take throttle easily, big time power loss, won't even free rev well. Just feels like it's making 50 HP or so... I ordered the $186 CPS from MoParts, installed it, and it runs-the same What now? No check engine light. It sure seems like a problem serious enough to make my SRT6 run like this would throw a MIL light

 

crankshaft position sensors usually cost around the $45 range. Although I haven't heard of one going bad for awhile, the camshaft sensor can cause this as well. I am sure you have checked for vacuum hoses off, throttle body is tight, no intake hoses off coming from the sc...etc. All these things can cause the problem. Throttle position sensor...etc...

 

Your symptoms dont sound like a typical Crankshaft or Camshaft sensor failing....

Doc's suggestion to look at vacuum lines and TB are good....leaks are semi-common...

I have had two scenario's that causd a similar symptom to yours....
1. The rubber gasket between the TB and the SC cracks/splits at the joint with the metal plates in it...
2. The TB was acting like it wasnt working right... did a Thottle reset and it cleared the issue. (I have had this happen to me two different times after working on the car)

 

Did you check the O2 sensors on exhaust pipe 1 & 2? I had the same problem you had last week and the dealership found them to be defective. The repair cost me $1100.

 

Still an intermittant problem and a real headscratcher. Car sat for 3 weeks, long enough for a rat to make a cozy little nest on top of the battery from a shop rag I had underhood He filed his teeth a bit on the first 1" of positive battery cable but I don't see any other chew damage

Started the car last night, drove it 4-5 miles gently then used the loud pedal agressively for a couple miles All was perfect. This am, gonna run an errand, fired up fine for 10-15 seconds then the stumble sets in. THe whole car shakes and the RPMS drop below 500, applying throttle in Park does almost nothing, RPMS will rize but very very slowly. I actually shut it off, restarted the engine and it ran fine for 30 seconds or so.

Diagnosis is not my forte, I'm more willing to throw parts at it myself than overpay at the dealership. Will a bad cam sensor trigger a check engine light? No check engine light is on now.

Thanks for the suggestions to look at lines and TB, all is well there, nice and secure with no splits. Cant really see the bottom T (I have the Needswings DCAI and teflon coated T) splitter but there is no way it would have ran so strong last night if that was separated.

Any other ideas? I don't have access to a scan tool(or really know what to do with it anyway )

 

Did you check your air filter housing. Perhaps your rat relocated in there and chewed up the filters and loose filter pieces are piled up at the MAF screen, plugging it.

 

Could be the MAF failing. Try unplugging it to see if there is any change when/if the condition returns.

 

Both good ideas, I'll check


Alan

BTW Chuck I haven't been here as much these days, hows the MitsuFire project, is there an updated thread somewhere?

 

mice and rats like to get into all places...and have done a lot of damage to wiring as well...you need to pull everything apart, and start looking at all things at this point...good luck..

 

Rodents are nothing to sneeze at. My insurance company just spent over $3,900 having my Dodge pickup rewired due to chipmonks. I've been told that if you're going to leave a vehicle sit for any length of time that it is a good idea to put some mothballs in an old nylon and put it in the engine compartment.

 

Possibility the fuel filter is clogged. May need to do a pressure test.

 

did you ever find what was wrong? I'm experiencing this now. Heavy foot will make the car turn off as well as hitting 80mph. recently changed my CPS.

-Jon

 

He has not posted since April, I love it when people ask for help and then never say what worked.