I bought my roadster in April and it runs great. Just for the heck of it, I connected my scanner to see if anything showed up. To my surprise I see a "P0335, Crank Position Sensor Malfunction" code, but the check engine light is NOT on and the thing fires up and runs fantastic. I had it out on a local road course a few weeks ago and it didn't have a hiccup all day. I tell the scanner to clear the code, it tells me "code successfully erased", but when I recheck, the code it is still in there.

The question is, since it's running fine with no MIL,should I even worry about it? I was thinking about taking it on a 400 mile trip next weekend instead of my new Focus, but don't want it crapping out on me half way through and I don't have time to do the sensor before then if that's the problem.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

The cps is a known issue pick up a spare just in case and enjoy the drive

 

Something is wrong and most likely will fail. Even if it is not the CPS, the cps would be the first thing to change in the diags process. I would replace it

 

It has 78000 miles and I think it is original. If I can find one somewhere tomorrow I will change it and hopefully that will clear the code. Still not sure why the code is there but no MIL or poor performance.

On a side note, I thought I had read somewhere that the engine must be cold when replacing the CPS, but I can't find the article. Is this true from a performance standpoint, or more from a "I don't want to burn myself" standpoint?

Thanks for replies.

 

Engine temp during replacement does not matter - but you are right, the temp might matter to your HANDS!

 

Doughboy, changed mine yesterday. Changing it cold is the BEST way as its a tight squeeze getting in to remove it. You will enjoy the difference it makes as well to your engine performance and how it runs! Only problem here was the damn clip to undo it,if you find out the trick to undo it easily please let me know/probably ALL of us know!!

 

Make sure it is a BOSCH only sensor. Did I mention only use a BOSCH sensor? The only one that will last (according to most who have replaced them) is a BOSCH sensor.

 

The MB forums also stress to use BOSCH only.

 

Just wondering.. am I the lone ranger running the advanced auto with a lifetime warranty?

 

I think so.

I have my BOSCH spare (that I still have not needed) in a plastic bag in the trunk. It's time is coming, I'm sure.

 

I've got one joy riding around with me too.. If needed it will go in till I get to advanced auto to use that warranty .. I paid a Bosch price + for it over Ebay prices so they can replace semi annually if required..

 

Changed it today. It does idle better and it drives much smoother. Before, I would have to "drag" the throttle into shifts to make a smooth shift. If you let off too soon it would lerch and jerk violently. Now, smooth as silk shifts with normal shifting. Put the scanner on it, and the code is now cleared...so that was a simple enough fix.

For the clip, after 20 mins of trying to push on it with screwdrivers of varying lengths from every angle I had an Epiphany! I took the engine cover off (covered the intake tube with a cloth), crouched on top of the intake, reached around the back of the engine with my left arm and used my thumb to push the tab, and fished my right arm down the other side and used my middle finger to hold the back of the plug while I pushed the tab on the other side. With the tab pressed, I used both hands to easily pop off the plug. Took 15 mins start to finish to replace once I figured that out. See pics.

Now to fix my randomly activating alarm!

 

The trick to easily replacing the CPS is to first remove the metal guard, and that is easy, just 2 bolts on the bellhousing.

 

It definitely runs better now. I have noticed that the exhaust smells stronger now. Before I never noticed it but now I can really smell it when backing out of a parking spot, for example. Oh well, I'm filling it up today so I'll see if the fuel mileage changes.

On another note, it has a slight hesitation when I hit a bump. It has had this since I bought it and I assumed it was the CPS after I found the MIL code for it malfunctioning. Now the code is gone but the hesistion is still there. So, if I hit a fairly sharp bump (does not have to be really severe) under light constant throttle, the engine immediately after hitting the bump feels like it studders for a second then return to normal. Never any check engine light and I haven't been able to find any other threads about it. I tend to be really in-tune to what my cars are doing so I notice every new squeak/ rattle, etc that crops up. Most of my passengers look at me like I'm crazy when I'm driving and say "do you feel that"

Anyone else have a similar issue?