No, sorry I can't tell you each step. We originally did these in steps, but went back and took them all off and did each one by itself. I volunteered my car for the test as they wanted one that was ,so to speak a virgin. I only got the final result off the dyno.
As I remember, Eurocharged tune plus the K&Ns vs stock was 191.4 hp vs 197 hp. Addiing the 74mm TB went up to 199.6 hp. Adding the 2.75inch intakes, the 3 in MAF and debaffled elbow descreened added the remainder to 211.4 HP at the rear wheels. In between each change the tune was tweaked as needed. So the CAIs descreened and debaffled elbow added 11.4 RWHP. I think most of the 11.4 HP was from the CAIs. I went back through my files and found most of the DYNO sheets. Clint did these test while he was still at Eurocharged, I'm sure Jerry would be glad to share details if asked.
Hope this helps some.

 

Very Helpful.........Thanks.

Based on most input I've seen, I'm just going to add the CAI and be done. I'll get it retuned by Eurocharged after the install.

 

Tune + intake is all I would do for a non-track car. It will wake it up, but keep it totally reliable, best bang for the buck for sure IMO. I also am a big fan of the sprint booster, while there is no power gain, it makes it a lot more fun to drive...

 

I would do them all, but the tune and CAI are most important. K&Ns were worth there cost too!

 

I have the K & N's, and the Tune.........now just need the DCAI and then retune. Mines not a track car, just a road car for pleasure / spirited driving.

 

I know its a bit of topic, but I still think it should be addressed.

From my research, the best suspension mods for the N/A are lowering springs, combined with upgraded shocks (such as bilstein/koni) and an SRT-6 front swaybar. Is this information correct ?

 

I have all of the above to put on my car. But I'm also putting on the camber bars and trailing arms made by a former member here. Plus the bolts for the front.

 

It is correct if you intend on not lowering much at all, or running massive amounts of camber...

 

sprint booster is a must.. i turn it off now and my car feels dead and slow.. best mod ive done and suprizing no hp add.. needswings dcai 74mm tb euro tune and sprint booster is all you need to do and it will be a totaly differnet car to drive from stock and 10 times funner! anyother mods i would say are impractical and a waste of money and notice with power GL!

 

According to dtinker and his claim of 211 with all the mods I want is a little disappointing, however this thread was a good read

 

im a bit confused about what screens were removed from the MAF , and what baffles were removed?

 

Search for it. There was a write up by Graphiteghost I believe. It is pretty straight forward. It took me maybe an hour and does seem to have a little more up top now. Also, changes the sound a little. It is a free mod that I would definately recommend.

 

On suspension I would try something a little different. Stock, these cars have too much understeer. I would go with a little wider front wheel and 235 tires. Voughtland springs and Koni shocks. Leave the front sway bar as is. Go with a little wider rear wheel with 265-275's. If the car is still pushes in the corners, then add a larger rear sway bar. Another thing I noticed that really helped handling believei it or not was really big brakes and a bunch more torgue and HP. These two things added together allow you to easily control weight transfer into, through and off the turn. If you are serious about the twisties, get the paddle shifters if you have an automatic, it is much easier to keep the engine in its sweet spot at all the various speeds.

As far a power goes, Obviously, I believe in the old saying that there is no replacement for displacement. At 53 I must be an old guy as we never really had access or much interest in a dyno. for us the ET was the dyno. We measured in tenths not hp. Dyno's don't take into consideratiion weight of the car. aerodynamics and suspension or driver ability. If I had stayed with the V6, I would have picked up a 3.7 out of an ML dirt cheap swapped it in on a Saturday, I then would have worked on the mods listed above as well as delete the socondary CAT's to let it breath easier and then added boost or NOS. On my 5.0, I did AMG intake, screen and bafflles, 55 n/a cams and secondary CAT's. These mods made a very nice inprovement to the top end performance. Keep in mind that you could achieve a higher HP number on a dyno and make your car slower in the 1/4 mile becuase you moved your torque curve up. In my case I had an abundence of low end torqie, but was lacking on the top end. The mods i did increased the top end but sacraficed some low end torque. This worked well for me because I had more low end than I could get to the ground with the V8.

 

so the 3.7l swap is fairly simple then? basically in and out retune?

 

yep, identical. when you get the old engine out, try not to confuse it with the one you are putting in. I think Rudy was or did use a 3.7 to build a AMG32/SRT6 engine into a 3.7

 

So true.

Also i wouldn't recommend bigger injectors for the n/a. To put away the intake air restrictors and the catalytic converters is much more efficient.

We have a 3.2 N/A to 3.7 Kleemann compressor conversion over here in germany. The engine was completely rebuildt. At the moment the engine is running at 410 Hp and 525 Nm at 0.5 Bar. The owner will give the 2.000 Km and will put the pressure at 0.9 Bar. The estimated hp will be around 450 Hp. Maybe a little more.

First speed test at 0.5 Bar at the german autobahn was 310 KM/h (193 MpH) (GPS measurement). It's a roadster.

More infos here (german language): Motor Umbau auf 3,8 Ltr - Umbauten, Modifikationen ... - Chrysler-Crossfire-Forum - Das Forum für Crossfirefans

Regards
Markus

 

so the 3.7l can pull out alot more power then the 3.2? why is this? if thats the case why havent more people done the swap?

 

"There's no replacement for displacement."

 

Wow!! A 3.7 with a Kleemann supercharger went 193 mph!!

 

Any idea if this would work with the 6spd tranny?