I noticed my shifter moving forward about a 1/2" the other day under hard acceleration. I did some research and found that it was probably the engine mount that was broken. I opened the hood last night to watched the motor while holding the brake and reving the motor while in gear. SCARY, the motor raised up about 6-8" on the driver side.

I read Woody's cable mod which I will do tonight for a band aide but need to get the problem fixed. I would hate to buy the same OEM mount and only want to do this project once.

I can't believe that a google search shows no hits from our friends on the MB forums with this problem. Does that mean that the slk32 mounts are stronger? I also read where the CL55/E55 mounts are similar in size, would these be stronger?

I have also read up on the poly fill project and would like to go this route but need a donor set of mounts to do this project.

I am not running anwhere close to some of you guys with up to 400hp and would like to get some feedback for what your experiences have been and solutions. I have a new sc pulley coming in soon and this needs to be fixed and prevented.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

 

all the mercedes mounts are liquid filled and subject to the same failure. the poly fill and cable strap will be the only permanent solution. if your mounts arent trashed you could do the poly fill in a weekend
none of the mb mounts are any better or worse. the m/b guys just replaced them time and time again. srt-6 roadster was one of the few that searched for a better solution

 

Thanks Steve,

I am sure that my driver side mount is toast. I think I have found all the threads that everyone else has read on this subject and have only seen our specific srt6/slk32 mounts done by MMZ. I would need a jig like he made to keep the correct height and angle if I have a catastrophic one in two pieces.

If I buy a new one to just drain and fill what would be the best way to degrease the inside of the cavity?

It appears that the driver side mount fails most and it pulls apart instead of compressing. Wouldn't seperating the mount into two pieces and cleaning up all rubber help the urethane to grab the metal top and bottom mounting pieces?

Got the cable on tonight too, thanks for the help and insight.

 

you could use a 100% solution of simple green and let it sit for a few hrs to dissolve any fluid left in the mount. if you mounts are busted go the mmz route . if they are just failed with a crack try the other way

 

Yes super old thread, but I'm experiencing the dreaded driver side motor mount issue. Looked today and engine jumps at least 6 inches from 1st to 2nd gear. Do I need a lift to install the cables/straps? Or can I jack it up? Also, where do you end up putting the steel cable through?

Thanks for any help

 

your mount is broken in half, it has surely compromised the other 2 mounts to the system, replace all 3, forget the chain, just replace your broken mounts

 

thank you. I spoke with a chrysler mechanic who says he has seen this a ton of time, and suggested that we replace the drivers mount, transmission mount and then cable it all down as well. Hope that solves the problem!

 

I would heed NeedsWings advice, three mounts and forget the cabling. The Chrysler dealer is building up the price, I am surprised he did not add the passenger mount.
Forget the dealer go to an import car specialist.

 

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Do Not Take Your Car To A Dealership!


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I just broke my drivers side motor mount and had one place quote me more than $3000, Of course ran across the independent mercedes places who are all snooty and say "we don't work on those".
Think I can get it done for about $600 out the door. No I can't do it myself, I am 65 with a bad back so have to go the shop route.
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They quote you 3 hours labor but some can do it in about 2 hours if they have done it before. Yes you should change both motor mounts and transmission mount.

 

I have a method that takes a great deal of the pain out of replacing these engine mounts. I will post it up. I just did a set on a SRT6 and it took me 4 hours, by myself with only a floor jack , wood blocks and hand tools.

Also, get mounts for a 2003-06 E55 AMG. They are both stronger and cheaper than the crossfire mounts. No other penalties.

 

Do you have a part number for those? They are much wider and are mainly metal instead of rubber, right?

 

Just look them up by application. Dimensionally, they are identical,with the exception that they will come with a silicone hat. You can remove it (it's not directly attached), but I install with them. They are stronger mounts to handle the bigger V8. No NVH penalty that I can tell. I've put them in my V8 car, a srt6 and a few limiteds.