Here is the parts list that Max Hughes posted on one of the MB sites. Note the .63 A/R as this list is for a rear mount turbo.

 

but but but but.... isnt ours a v6? does that make a difference?

 

If you are referring to the list above, the M112 engine is the n/a V6 that is in your car. The V8 is the M113.

 

that sounds correct, the link we were given was for a mercedes eclass with a straight 6 , that is what threw me off

 

Here is the pdf for the M113, pretty much the same as the M112 instructions...

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...V8%20ver.2.pdf

 

Thanks for the instructions. Thanks for the list. Everything helps. My fabricator was going to pick up the car for measuring on the weekend but that fell through. Had to put time into his regular job. Would have got back to you sooner but was out of the country, went to Washington State to visit family and friends.

 

So What size turbo/trim did you decide to go with?

 

Here's what I got: Compressor 0.50 A/R 73 trim
50.5 MM INDU. 76 MM EXDU

Turbine 0.63 A/R 73 trim
66.5 MM INDU 55.9 MM EXDU
so whatcha think?

 

Sounds like it's in the ball park for our engines.. this reading gets deep! Since the turbo is going to be sitting pretty much below the oil pan level.. you are going to have to add a scavenger return pump aren't you?

 

Why yes, funny you should mention that. I just received it in the mail today. Still stockpiling parts. It takes awhile to get things shipped to Canada, I'm trying to get as much together as I can ahead of time.
My fabricator has a regular job and is fitting this job in his spare time. I don't expect him to have to run around for what he needs for the project. I'm trying to do what I can to help. You keep mentioning stuff and it will help what I might miss. Anything I miss will hold up the project.

 

Not sure what kind of pump you got but it is a good idea to have an alarm go off in the car if it stops working.

 

If running low boost, all an intercooler is going to do is kill your boost in lower gears. Run water/meth, much easier and more effective on a turbo. For an oil scavenge pump, make sure to use a brass gear rotor design, not a modified rubber diaphragm based pump, as they always leak all over the place. The big issue with turbo fuel control is that the boost is not linear. You can have near max boost with very little throttle opening. The design has to be able to interpret the boost and match the fuel regardless of percent throttle opening. Closed loop o2 sensor feedback operation is where all the trouble shows up. In closed loop, the ecu targets 14.7 afr regardless of anything else.

 

Yup a alarm for the oil pump is a great idea.
Yes I got a mechanical pump with brass gears. Noisy but more reliable from what I've read. Now you got me reading about water meth injection ..damn
I'm also looking for the worlds smallest gauges for boost and air mixture. I have a 4# spring, a 6 # spring, and a 8# spring for the wastegate. I'll be starting with the 4#. I think it's easier to tune up.

 

I like to run a 3lb spring with an intelligent electronic boost controller. Much easier to control, and is great to be able to default to very low boost in bad weather or if a less experienced driver is behind the wheel. Only drawback is that a really good smart controller that can run closed loop feedback runs $500 up. My boost control in my 300C is part of the secondary computer controlling fuel and timing. I can program it to read actual manifold pressure so the algorithm will adjust the pulse width modulation to the solenoid to maintain the desired target boost. It can also be set up with an X Y axis table like a fuel map to vary the boost pressure based on the rpm.

I love my SRT6, but always prefer a solid turbo setup as I can control the boost and not be dependent simply on a pulley ratio.

 

I have never seen the value in an "alarm" for the oil pump. The only way one would work is with a 1 or 2 psi hobbs switch on the outlet, but a scavenge pump does not pump a continuous stream of oil but rather slugs of oil as the pump moves more oil than what is coming from the turbo. They are prone to a lot of false annoying alarms. Besides, if it stops working for some reason, you will know simply from all the white smoke from the exhaust.

The WORST thing one can do to a 12vdc motor is to try and use resistors to run it on reduced voltage at low vehicle speed to reduce pump noise at idle or low speed. This is a sure fire way to burn up a pump.

 

With a rear mounted turbo is an intercooler even needed? I've done a bit of reading and because of the location the intake temps are already much lower than if the turbo was under the hood. Also how much boost do we plan on pushing? Without an intercooler it looks like at 10psi we'll be right at 290hp at the crank I believe. I'll post my numbers when I find the link I used.

 

I know from researching this, that an intercooler is not really needed. STS who has the most experience with rear mount kits (all they sell), offers an intercooler only as an option, but they do make more HP with it. Personally, i would use an intercooler that is sized properly and not mess with meth unless needed.

 

Hey Mrmiata, along time ago in one of your posts, you showed a pipe with some finning/louvers on it for cooling. I have searched all over but can not find it. I would like to read about it, it sounds interesting . Could you possibly remember where you got the info? Just another idea I am throwing around. Help with this and you are back on the Xmas list.
Thanks

 

Well okay.. just no shipping it "COD"...

I felt like a couple of these would be ideal for some easy cooling if you could mount them safely from speed bumps.. so needless to say saved the website link..

Pre-Intercooler Cooling Pipe

 

That's what I was talking about, Thank you