2004 3.2 coupe non super charged.



While replacing the brittle vacuum lines, I broke one. The line connects to the bottom on the intake manifold (front) behind the air pump. It is a tight fit back there. 1)Does anyone know the procedure to reconnect. I now wonder if the intake should be removed because the car has a major vacuum leak. 2)If I block the line and and the leak for 2 miles (European shop) will car car survive? 3) the primary purpose of the aforementioned parts.

Pics below

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You are talking about part number 15 right? Looks like it is part of the EGR. More Information for AIRTEX / WELLS 4F1838

If you have another car, go grab a new vacuum hose from an autoparts store. Cut to length and reinstall on the car. I would replace any vacuum lines that you have removed, they can develop small cracks that can be hard to find later on. Easier to just replace with new lines not, also they are not expensive at all.

 

I'm dealing with this issue right now. DO NOT DAMAGE THE HOSE ANYMORE! It runs inside of the intake manifold and is glued in place. You can't replace just that hose. Best advice I can offer is to get down where it isn't brittle anymore and put in a double sided nipple to connect a fresh line to it. If that line breaks at the base then you'll have to use a hose barb or buy an entire new intake manifold.

 

Josh is doing that work on my engine actually. It sounds like a total PITA, so defiantly listen to his advice.

Where in Virginia are you located btw?

 

the rubber line is pressed in like an arrow, not glued. yes if that seal is broken the entire intake manifold needs to be replaced, we tried like hell to get peirburg to sell us a new hose when we disassembled a slk55 manifold as we wanted to coat the bottom section as well but they would not. yes if there is a little bit of good rubber left there, cut and extend the vacuum line with a double male vacuum adaptor. that regulates the flappers inside the intake manifold switching from short to long runners.

 

here is what it looks like on the inside, you cannot pull the vacuum line out and stick a new one in, they are fed from the inside out when built.

 

Rob, what's the best way to remove the butterfly insert? Just heat all over? or...



OP, In my case where the line snapped right at the mani, I have to fit a hose barb to thread in and reconnect a new line.

 

Bedford Va



Thanks again. Well the hose is beyond damaged. So much so that I cannot insert a male adapter. I must say, I didn't get much sleep last night.

Upon wake up I drove to an independent European shop with pictures and diagrams in hand. I do not know the shop owner personally, however, the owner replied, "well that looks like a ML 320 intake." He walked into the back of the shop and retrieved the intake. What's more he gave it to me for free. I was shocked. Everything looks the same except the injectors are blue on the crossfire.

Anyway, the hose it blocked off for now. Will you elaborate further on the short and long runners. Thanks y'all

 

I soaked it in the parts washer for 3 days before getting it apart. it was a super **** and I haven't wanted to do one again, lol.


the nipple in the 3rd image slides into the accordion rubber grommet end of the rubber line, so just trying to screw in a barbed fitting to the outside of the manifold wont work either as it wouldn't seal to the inside chamber.


you have short and long runners inside your active manifold. the car will hit enough pressure to move the actuator and thus open/close the flappers to divert air to/from short/long runners. they do this for good low end torque and high end hp.


if you snapped the line at the manifold and have no hose left to connect to you will want to get another manifold.


will be the same for a c320, cl320, cls320, e320, g320, ml320, s320, sl320

 

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Here is the ML intake with undamaged hose.

 

I have juuuust enough hose it should work. I'm working on a 500 engine and don't really want to go buy a manifold lol.

 

Update


The new (used) free ML 320 intake has a rip where the rubber connects to the intake. My luck.

Is possible to drill a hole (tap and die threaded ?) 000000h

 

that is most likely why it came off the ml in the first place

 

Is it possible to gather the vacuum from some other port on the intake?


It seems the intake has various nipples nipples. Would one of them work?






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What about a tee into the intake manifold pressure sensor? Just a thought.

 

Pierburg good read


http://download.ms-motor-service.com...132_en_web.pdf

 

According to one versed in the matter, " If all else fails and you don’t want to remove the intake manifold. . . . There is a spare vacuum port on the back of the intake next to the brake booster vacuum line. Obtain a vacuum reservoir canister, a check valve, and a 5/32” Tee from any donor vehicle (or buy new from a parts supplier). Run some 5/32” hose from the spare vacuum port to the check valve then to one side of the Tee, making sure the check valve allows air flow toward the manifold. Run hose from the other side of the Tee to the switchover solenoid, and from the remaining port of the Tee to the vacuum reservoir. The only thing left is to seal off the old hose at the manifold. Cut the old hose off close to the manifold, use some solvent on a rag to clean the area around the cut-off hose as best you can, then dob a bunch of RTV over and around the cut-off hose."

 

the line is not going to the main chamber but instead to the inner chamber

 

Great info, however, it doesn't matter (inner/outer)


Vacuum is available. Get a canister.

 

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Thank you to those who helped. And a thank you to the Benz dudes who taught me.