My mods are a NeedsWings DCAI and a Eurocharged 65mm puley. Car ran like a terror after these two mods. Then I got the tune and now my SC does not function. Euro. says it is not the tune. Jerry said they have but 3 tunes and have used each about 75 times. I am getting power to the SC line/wiring. Even dead cold it does not boost so that should rule out the IC pump. There are no codes. The K-40 soldering looks good. What else can I check before I need professional help. What does a EU reflash cost from the dealer? I hope that this can be resolved before I need to hope a reflash does get the sc working. Thanks all. Mark

 

Measuring +12 at the SC clutch connector is only half the story.
You should see +12 on one pin and 0V ( ground ) on the other to engage the clutch.
If you are seeing +12 on both, then the PTCM is not telling the clutch to engage.
See below schematic :

 

I'm guessing you have the DIY home flash version. You can flash it back to stock if you have doubts.

 

The SC will not work with the stock or performance tune. I may have seen a code for a weak o2 signal for one bank. I can try to see if a reader shows it still. Wish I understood electronics. Dumb question, how do I go about testing for 12volts and for ground or would I not see ground at idle? Still a little more help guys. thanks for getting this going.

 

When I checked for voltage I put the leads on the two wires in the plug, how should I do it? ONe to wire and one to ground. Then the other wire, if the first got 12v, I would go wire to ground? Sorry, not very bright here.

 

Connect voltmeter black lead to ground ( engine block, whatever ), use the red lead to measure voltage on each wire of the plug.
If both read 12 v, then clutch is NOT energized.
If one reads 12 v and the other 0 v or close to it, then the clutch should be energized.

With ignition turned on, but engine not started, if one lead reads 12 v and the other does not, then there is an open circuit in the clutch coil.

Another simple way to test is with the engine running, touch a wire connected to ground to the black/pink wire of the connector, the clutch should engage.

 

Now you mention it not working with the stock tune, when did you try it with the stock tune?
Did you go back to the stock tune after the SC did not work with the modified tune?
How long did you run it without the modified tune?
Does the pulley look OK with the correct gap or is the gap too large?
Maybe the electromagnet has got too hot from slipping and burnt out.
I'd take the pulley off and look at the magnet.
Is the clutch plate still attached to the pulley?
I am clutching at straws here.

 

Ala__Xfire please contact me. I think you are on the ball here. Does this forum have private messaging? One did show full voltage and the other an insignificant number as you stated. I am showing PO420 for bank 1 with a reader, I have no cel or codes showing. What should an o2 sensor read, 1? I think perhaps I need an o2 sensor at least. If you have had sc power you can imagine my frustration here. I have to drive 350 miles round trip and am 61 and been disabled for 14 years. I have to hire people to drive me that far. But I trust the mechanic there.
xfire am I correct each item shown in the schematic plays part in the SC function? If so your hot wire will not engage the SC either but I will try it. If a direct email is ok mine is sweet9903cobra@gmail.com or private message here. Thanks guys, you have given me some hope here as you are more hardcore than my friends at slkworld.com Mark

 

Thiis "Hotwire" should void any other system check that is not allowing boost, would that be correct?

With the key in the on position one has 12 volts and the other has little voltage so you say the clutch coil is bad? Do I read that correctly? How could I have done the first check where I got 12 volts on one and little on the other without the key in the on position, if key is not on there isn't power to either wire. I am confused.

With no key involved I get no voltage at either pin. With the key on I get 12v on one and little on the other, that is bad? Are you saying with the key on both pins should show 12volts?
I hope you misworded that! I was getting my hopes up!

 

Going the PM route is fine but the rest of us may be left in the dark as to the solution of the problem.
Just saying.

 

I think he is embarrassed to ask what he thinks are stupid questions.
I am embarrassed that I am the only one trying to help and I don't even have the fancy hair dryer model, I'm just guessing, can't really measure or look at anything for him.

 

My "hair dryer" is in the bathroom.. I stuck with N/A's so just here picking up a little memory bank filler..

 

I did reply in post #7, best I could do. He can do PM's but if he does it is just you and him.

 

Yes, I see that, perhaps I misspoke.

 

Up here in Canada our politicians use 'misspoke' as an alternative word to lying, so I am sure you did not misspeak.

As all politicians lie we should call our female politicians Ms Spoke and the male ones Mr Poke.

 

ALA_xfire you are doing a lot, you all are. Long distance diagnosis is very difficult. From the schematic and my code reader showing a p0410 I think it is a combination of emissions ans the SC. All of the info I can bring to the tech across the state will be of benefit since this SC just stopped working when I did the tune which may have played a role electrically but will work fine when the SC is repaired. I will keep tinkering with it this week as it is supposed to be in the 80's without rain.
i WANT TO TRY THE HOTWIRE TRICK, THAT SHOULD SHOW THAT ALL IS GOOD OR SOMETHING IS BAD, HOPEFULLY TODAY. THE WIRE IS THIN SO I NEED A WIRE WITH A POINT. SORRY FOR THE CAPS AS I AM IN THE DARK, IN A COUPLE OF WAYS;0

EVERYTHING IN POST #7 AS BEEN ADDRESSED. ALL LOOKS FINE. IT JUST STOPPED WORKING AFTER I PUT THE TUNE IN AND THE STOCK TUNE DOES IT ALSO. SOMETHING IS AMISS BUT TOUGH TO FIND.

 

If you're getting the P0410 code, you probably have a burnt contact on the relay. Pull your RCM and check the points. A light sanding on any burnt points should do the trick.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post605290

 

I think the IC pump is bad. I heard a Bosch #10 is good, is it and how much do they go for?

 

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Re: AVT Bosch Intercooler Pump



I would simply stick with the proven #10 Bosch for around $100. No worries about over pressure/flow rates and are well tested. And no modding of the plug and housing; P&P.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweet2002

I think the IC pump is bad. I heard a Bosch #10 is good, is it and how much do they go for?

What I posted in your other thread...

Quote:

If you still have the original OEM IC pump installed, replace it with the plug & play #10 Bosch. The original ones show a habit of having the impeller disintegrate. Buy from FCP Euro and get free shipping & LIFETIME WARRANTY.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ump-0392022010