How much should it cost to have dealer replace this item.

 

Depends on the dealer, but rest assured it will be at least 5-10 times what it would cost you to order one and spend 20 minutes doing it yourself.

 

Ive read that at 35 to 40 thousand miles the Crankshaft Pos Sensor will start to go out, on my car it was 35500. In the middle of an intersection at rush hour. Tow to dealer and fixed for a fee of 550. ouch......

 

Ouch is right since the part is available for $40-45 and takes 20 minutes if you haven't done it before, about 10 minutes with experience.,

 

The Chrysler list price for the CPS is $197. I'm guessing they charged a minimum 1 hour labor @ $150 to replace it, and another $150 for the tow. They may have thrown in additional time for diagnosing the problem.

As the others stated, aftermarket CPS prices run from $30 to $70. However, most everyone on the forum recommend using only the original Bosch made unit part number 0 0261 210 170.

The CPS is located at the back of the engine, and down on the drivers side. A special Torx socket is required to remove the single bolt holding it in place. First disconnect the single electrical connection on the sensor, and then remove the Torx bolt. My biggest concern when doing this job was dropping the small torx bolt and loosing it. There are several very good threads on the forum explaining better how to replace the CPS.

Browsing the past threads will prepare new owners on potential problems to know what they can handle themselves, and avoid costly dealer repairs. Knowing this was a common problem I purchased a spare for my roadster and kept it in the trunk. Two years ago when my son's coupe would turn over, but not start, I was certain the CPS died. Taking our time it took us about 1/2 hour in all to replace it. It was well worth having the spare on hand.

 

There is the theory that in many cases the reason why the CPS seems to fail is that the contacts get corroded or get loose somehow, in which case the solution is simple.

 

Thanks to all for there info and help on this problem. It has been repaired and is running great. The ouch could have been avoided if it had quit at home but timing is everything. Thanks again, I use this sight a lot.

 

I have AAA "Century Plus" and have needed it a few times. 100 miles of free towing and I just have them drop at my home.

Since modern cars have a habit of stopping suddenly I feel it is a good investment.

 

You really don't need a special torx socket . I used a 1/4 in drive 1/4 in 12 point socket to remove mine. worked great.

 

Ebay has CPS listed for as low as $12 but the manufacture is not stated in the listing. Is it forum opinion to ONLY use a Bosch CPS? (ebay listing: "New Crankshaft Crank Position Sensor - Chrysler - 5269873AB) Thanks!

 

YES Yes yeS yes.
It seems the rip-offs make them with thinner connector pins, that's the main issue.

 

Ok, oK, Ok, OK- only Bosch!
Thanks!!

 

Going to a reputable shop, and not some damn dealer would have saved you a lot of money.

Keep in mind that car dealers no .longer make big markups on cars - they rely on overcharging in the service department to build and maintain those taj-mahal buildings of theirs.

 

Hey, I wonder if I can get some very specific instruction to remove the CPS. I tried today for over an hour with no luck. Got light in there but for the life of me could not disengage the plug to expose the bolt. One suggestion was to attempt to unscrew the bolt first but the wire housing plug interferes with a straight shot for the socket. Which end of the retaining clip do you depress the clear the lock tab? Is it toward the engine or close to the end of the plug wire? I used a long round file for the end to use a push the clip cause my fingers (Strength) were not doing it. Any suggestions before I go to the expensive mechanic.

 

YOu do'nt push the tab, you have got to kinda LIFT the tab. It is VERY hard if you do not know just what to "lift". I broke the tab off because I didn't understand either.

SEVERAL have just removed the bolt and taken it all out as one - and that's how I will do it with my "new" Crossfire when the day comes!

This will take someone up to 1/2 hour - so expect to pay 1/2 or 1 hour labor ($90-100 an hour) so it may be worth it to pay someone.

Oh, and I never fixed the broken tab, the plug stayed on without it - but you could always use a dad of gasket-maker to hold the cable on the CPS if you needed to, should you break the tab.

 

Thanks for the reply, I may give this one more attempt (of frustration) and try to carefully lift the back end of the tab (closest to engine) as you suggested. If I can wedge something small to allow the clearance needed to slip off the wire cap, maybe will be successful. I can get one hand in the area, but no one for 2 hands to pull and push. I'll try one more time. Depressing the tab closer to the plug to allow clearance of the tab and pulling at the same time seems about impossible (for me). If not successful, off to a mechanic who I don't have. I don't believe Chrysler will install owner parts. Thanks again for the guidance. Then it's time for the RCM soldering…………...

 

2 bolts and the metal guard comes off, these bolts are easily accessed from the passenger side with the engine cover off.
There will be a LOT more room to access the CPS, make sure to put the bolts back in with or without the guard, as they are mounting bolts for bell housing to engine.
( you'll need a set of Torx sockets )

 

I hadn't heard that a CPS begins to go out between 35K and 40K before. Is that true? If so, then it will immediately go on my to-do list since my XF just turned 38K. Are there any other preventive maintenance items I should take care of? I've already addressed the RCM issue.

 

Just take the screw out then you can pull the CPS out still attached to the cable and undo the clip in plain sight, I forgot about this method until I read this thread. It is the easiest method by far.

 

Hey guys, thanks SO much for the support and direction. I tried again today and what do you know, I was able to engage the 8mm torx head with a 1/4 extension for use with screw guns to hold the various tips (1/4). I was never able to disengage the clip. If anyone is gonna do this, I suggest an even longer extension or 2 together. Pulling the CPS was tricky, took some time rocking from side to side up and down. Removing the clip after removal, not a problem. The clip actual "clicked" when disengaged and engaged, so CF'ers talk to us (a little). I read a post on another site that suggested to tie a thread around the bolt head in case it gets dropped (I dropped it once and fished out with thread- a GREAT suggestion). I don't know how anyone can depress the locking clip closest to the wire plug and pull the plug at the same time- with one hand. I could not. Anyway, replacing the new CPS, was tricky too. There are 3 very slightly raised ridges on the cylindrical section that enters the engine block. It took around 4 times to get the CPS to line up with the receiving female threads in the engine. Once I got the CPS in far enough, I used a small ratchet to ratchet the bolt down, little by little- that took a while. Anyway, the CF fired up and now for the RCM repair. Thanks again to all who responded. The link below has great instruction and wonderful pictures for anyone to review. Also, a question: the removed CPS said Bosch on one side and Mercedes on the other side but the new Bosch only says Bosch on one side (no Mercedes). Is the removed CPS original?? Or did someone prior to me do this change? Thanks again!

https://howtune.com/articles/152-rep...ire#chunk-2681