36 hrs passed by . Drove the car about 15 miles. Next day , 36 later, the check engi e light is back on. I also noticed a little shaking after I start tge engine. Its feels like the engine is close to shut down, but it does not.
i am thinking to check the Mav sensor but since I don't want to mess up anything I guess I need to get to a MB shop to let them figure out. Any opinions why it took 36 hrs for the check engine light to reappear???

 

Just a stab but I had lean on both banks and after removing the air cleaner by lifting up towards the rear of it I saw my vacuum hose had broken on the passenger side of the engine. After putting some electrical tape on to stop the leak, problem was solved.I will be replacing it of course but just happy it worked.

 

The switch in in the light, the entire assembly is a single part, $25 from the dealer.

If you want to check, simply unplug it and see if the issues continue.

 

So I just took out the light bulb in the glove box to see if this will take care off my issues with the driver door not locking with remote (but it locks with the key), top not cosing when its open ( afraid to open it because it might not close anymore ). alarm randomly upcoming for no reason.I have not found any water in the trunk, even if maybe dried itself, I would have seen rust on the screwdriver what was laying there.
Plus I am having now these issues also:
1)My AC is blowing when she wants, even when turned off, randomly turns off and on itself ????
2) tonight my right rear side light isn't working anymore and I just had to replace my right rear brake light bulb 2 days ago How in the heck I can change the lightbulb there????
3) my check engine light still on, did not had time to drive to a MB shop. Searched for any clues. The engine is making a strange noise as well. I want to see if I can tape it and attach it here. Maybe it tells you guys something ???? Still driving the car with no issues other than a little weird shaking when the engine is running when the car stands still. Can this not be related to something specific?
I wish I could fix all those issues myself. I feel capable, I just don't know what the parts are called, where they are located and what they are there for. Pisses me off, I should study this stuff.

 

I like your attitude, so use this forum, there's more info here than anyplace else and some real good mechanics. There's a great deal to learn about these cars but you're making a start, so good luck, I hope you get things sorted.

 

thanks, not easy to try keep up with you guys. But thanks to all of you I was able to save tons of money and fix stuff myself. Even I get tired once in a while with my Xfire when issues come up, my son does not get it why I love this car so much. And he does not understand that I would spend my money again on a SRT6 even being 10 yrs old. I love this car. Its different than everyones else Porsche, Jaguar, BMW, Mercedes ..... and it still is able to steel head turns where others don't anymore. The engine is awesome, I still beat guys at the traffic light.

 

This sounds like the Dreaded JerryLee Lewis "Whole lotta shakin Goin On" syndrome...Kidding, but I would check the plug wire boots to see if they are securely on. I think a bad coil pack would throw a code.
What part of Florida are you in, perhaps I can recommend a decent shop.
As far as the AC is concerned, I'm having a similar, unresolved problem with the fan speeds, they seem to blow unpredictably but never when turned off. If I wiggle the speed ****, it changes so I suspect a bad speed selector switch. There is a service manual here in the forum that will help you disassemble the console to get to those switches.

 

what are plug wire boots?? can you send me a pic where they sit and how they look like?
I am in Miami/Coral Gables . An other member gave me a MB shop address as well but haven't had time to go yet soo I can't tell if good or not.
But if you have other please send to me. You can't have enough shops to take care of our beloved Xfires.
Regarding the AC, it's not related to gas what should be refilled??? thx for your input

 

tried to upload a short video with the engine noise, but it does not let me do it. If someone here would like to hear it I can send it via email ... maybe gives an idea of the issue here regarding check engine light on with lean bank error codes 0171/0174

 

As to engine shaking at idle and lean codes :
You most likely have a vacuum leak, check all the vacuum hoses that you can see including the two rather large ones that run from the throttle body/manifold to the two vent caps on the valve covers.
Also check the skinny one that goes from the throttle body to the firewall.
This same little hose has been known to be broken under the battery tray where it enters the firewall, remove the battery to inspect.

 

thanks for the explanation and tips. I will check as soon as it stops raining. I would love to send you a audio/video I made from the engine noise running idle. If you have an email I can send it to you.

 

Upload it to youtube, and make it private, where you need the url to watch, then just post the url.

 

well I did not think about You Tube. Thx for the reminder.
Am uploading now and will post URL as soon as ready.

 

Here the Url :
https://youtu.be/0QWgCLcC_0k

Let me know what you guys think

 

All I got was a "this video is private" message.
You posted the wrong URL, but I can't remember how to provide the right URL, I did at one time.....

 

ok, figured out. Uploading again

 

Hope it works now

https://youtu.be/6tHK3X7FQmE

 

check engine light update. I found the vacuum leak. It was one of those 2 big tubes connected to the engine, one must have been loose and came totally off a while ago. Since I fixed it (4 days ago) and reset the electrical system to take of the check engine light sign, it did not come up again. So I hope I fixed it.
However my engine does not make a good sound.
I made an audio/video to listen to it. Please let meknow what you guys think. Oil was been changed a couple month ago. I drive only 5 miles a day.
Here the You tube link:

 

Looking at 4-10sec the rattle seems to be in sync with the AC clutch.

I really do not understand why people who spend thousands of dollars on a car, will not spend either $20 or $60 on being able to read/clear codes. In mine my cell phone is clamped to the dash and provided an extension of the instruments with a digital display of coolant temp and voltage.

If you have an android phone or tab then you just need an OBD-II mini dongle ($12) and the Torque Pro app ($5).

If not you will also need an inexpensve Android tab with BlueTooth (7"-$40). More if you want a real GPS so MAPS works.

And that is it. Can read values and codes in any car since 1996.

Then download the '05 service manual from the archive here and you have an index to the trouble codes.

Make life much easier.

 

Thank you those tips. Will look into that. I never knew you could do that.
Regarding your comment on the engine noise. Is this suppose to be a normal noise? And can you explain better what the AC clutch is and what this means. Should this noise be related to an AC issue? I am just a women and always ready to learn.