Which holes are you talking about?
With the 2 different flange yokes?

I was planning on doing everything out of aluminum but the bolts.
If I did the plates in steel, the easiest way would be to weld a pinion yoke on 5x3/8 steel, and drill pilot and 3 bolt holes and done.
The pic is a reference what plates will look like, the large recess is for the male pilot flange, and the 6 recessed holes are 2 different 3 bolt patterns, recessed cap bolts So flush so flange has the room, and the threaded holes for the flange yoke.
These adapters are for bmw, lexus and toyota, but I could not get any dimensions of them from anyone, emailed a few companies that sold them and could not get a awanser, and several emails to the company that makes them, but he would not just give me awanser dimensions, but he said he would make for me for $320, hahahaha ahhh no, they sell there others for $99 that have more work, granted it is already on program on cnc but still, I would rather do myself.

 

I have 2 different aluminum driveshafts I picked up that would work, 1 is better than the other, which I am going with, but the other, can be done without having to go to a driveshaft shop and cut and reballance

 

You wrote;
Would prefer to use but believe timing the 4 bolt over the 3 bolt will have the holes to close together"

 

I measured the centers of the props and believe I found 2 pinion yokes that would fit perfectly, on manual transmission, the output shaft prop and pinion prop has 2 different centers.
BUT with 5"x3/8" steel drill the 3 12mm bolt holes, then cut out center so the pinion yoke would slide through and weld in place, when bolted on prop it would use the center bore instead of the pilot for the perfect alignment.

I cut a piece of 3" pvc pipe and put in place checking clearance, a 3" driveshaft would not have any modifications, a 3.5" has 1 bracket to modify, with the 4" I am going with has alittle more, but will be nice when it is done.
If we could modify a slip yoke to go in transmission, would be alot better, but I don't have the time.
Haha costs me a extra $48 a week just in gas to drive my truck than my crossfire, so don't want it down for 2 long.
Would be putting everything in this weekend if I just would have gave up on these shops and made my own plates.

 

Pvc pipe is length needed prop to prop, so minus 2 inches for the adapters and minus face to flange center line and then have the working joint to joint length.
The shaft on left is from a 01 or 02-04 isuzu rodeo and uses 1310 joints and has the slip, also in found in some ford rangers and explorers, need to find my paper that has which years and models.
Next is from a jeep grand cherokee, what it needs is take off bands holding the bellows, do not tear bellows, mark timing on splines, again need my sheet for accurate measurements, but then pull apart and take off roughly 1.5" from each, then put back together and attach bellows with acouple zip ties and install.
Have not looked yet to see if the bellows will be in a location to for additional clearance issues.
Right is ours.
Pic of new yokes.
And if you can see on drawing, marked out the centers for the 3 bolt and both 4 bolt.
Should be fine is I used the yokes on deiveahaft, it is close.
But would have to drill and tap holes but instead on bolting on, would use lock tie and studs for the flanges

 

Machinist got my plates done finally, went to pick them and the driveshaft up and he screwed them up in many ways.
And his is going to work on them in the morning.
So $290 for temporary plates.
And going to get some more material and do them myself and change out.
Need to get back in my crossfire, I am Jones ing to get back in the seat.

 

hang in there ,, you will get it done, I'm pulling for you . jim

 

I going to get there, evan if I have to just stud both sides of the plate for prop and flange yoke.
Which I was debating on doing, but bolts would be easier for install and better for driveshaft.

 

you have everything going the right way, don't get in a hurry, do it right the first time,you know what your doing, so keep it up,, i do agree we need this ,I just spent money on stock driveshafts two of them so that is why i am staying stock. jim

 

Before I had the driveshaft cut down I weighed it and stock, came in around 2 lbs lighter, will post when in get back home and reweigh shortened shaft.
With the tiny driveshafts we have I am surprised it does not get destroyed often.
Funny according to spicer driveshaft calculator, our oem driveahaft is good for 2,600 rpm.

 

Picked up my plates.
They are unusable.......
Didn't pay, but I out material, going to make them myself, tried to have a shop do, since I don't have the time when I am home and if anyone else wants, they could call up the shop and have them make them a pair.
I don't know yet, while I am doing it I might make a extra set or 2 while I am set up already.

What the machine shop did was horrible.
The 3 arm is not centered, diameter for bolt is to big, recess is way to deep, recess is not big enough.
Center pilot needs a .632 for a .630 shaft, he has a .620
Center pilot for the flange yoke is about 1/16 to big, seriously wtf, said I wanted pilot 1/8 deep I got .4370
Threads are fubared
And you notice the extra hole, where he started then relized the timing would not work, ya good thing it is only made for 7,000 rpm and not 70,000 rpm.
And he didn't even face them true .008 off, they where at .0005 when I dropped them off

 

"It was a Monday"
"AwwwAww crap , my apprentice did it!"
DON'T GO BACK FOR MORE!

 

Hell no, I am going to do them myself, just the time is my problem.

 

I got a few pieces milled down over the weekend and my template made, center punched my holes.
Next, be the pilots
.630 & 2.375

Then drill and tap the 4 3/8 nf holes.
3 12 mm holes with 18mm x 12mm counter sink for cap bolts

 

Have my driveshaft done.
47 1/4 working length U to U
have 4 plates I milled down, both pilots in, and bolt holes center punched ready to drill
​​​

 

Got 1 done, perfect fit
Getting ready to finish drilling the 2nd and tap, then going to start installing, have 2 brackets to modify then gtg, hopefully I can get it done before I run out of time today, and need to get ready for work next week.

 

Both plates done.
And fit perfect, I made with tight tolerances and they fit perfect, didn't have time to finish.

;(

 

Why is it that all the driveshaft calculators I have found d say that the oem driveshaft should not be in our cars?
and that it should have vibrations for cruising at over half critical mass
the 2 piece and size of the shafts.

someone please let me know if you go d a place that says otherwise.
well in numbers not my buddy said ahhh it be fine.

 

I have been wondering how you intend to balance this shaft.

 

the new shaft???

took it to a driveshaft shop and had them cut it down, and reweld and reballanced.
had to go twice, they measured wrong.
they only took off for 1 plate off the measurement and not two like I said.